Panther G & Transport

So....

what do you think.....

Factory fresh or battle hardened for the Panther?

I'm always a believer in working from a photo, if anything's available.

http://galleryplus.ebayimg.com/ws/web/360515853338_1_2_1.jpg

I have found a few pics, those show fresh from the factory. I still sort of have it in my mind to do a bit of battle wear. I have the base together and started putting the smaller parts, on the flatbed. There are so many, I can see me breaking some off, when I hold it and try to airbrush it. I have to remember to be a tad light handed. I was also thinking of adding model railroading dirt / sand to the base when completed. Just to make it look better than just airbrushing.

Progress so far:

Yes I have that issue with my ships, for sure.

Maybe temp mount the car to a piece of 1x6 just to make it easier to handle.

Here is one that I found. If anyone has different pics, that would be appreciated:

My only gripe so far is this...while highly detailed, Verlinden gives the most obscure / vague instruction sheets, with their product. There are only 4 steps, according to them. 1 of them being to remove the back deck...lol

GMorrison

Yes I have that issue with my ships, for sure.

Maybe temp mount the car to a piece of 1x6 just to make it easier to handle.

That's what I was thinking. I really don't want to handle it more than I can get away with. I just know something will wind up coming off. I already had tweezer launch but luckily, I found the part.

Eric the platform should probably show thats its a used piece of rolling stock, they moved a lot of equipment and stayed pretty busy but thats a tough decision on whether to make that Panther a clean or used build. Anyway I can't wait to follow this one, I love mixing german armor with any type of RR stuff. Great subjects.

Terry

Eric, maybe this will help a bit.

For sure, I was going to make the flatbed used but that is a great pic! I'm thinking I will go with the Panther being battle worn. Being transported from one front to another.

Thanks for the reply!!

Now, I need 1/35 scale chain for tie downs..lol

Eric, no problem I can't wait to see more from yours. Terry

Taps88

Now, I need 1/35 scale chain for tie downs..lol

cheapest chain is cheap jewelry at a craft store. you can eyeball the size, just prime it and paint. i think the Germans used a chain and ratchet deal to tighten them. we used turnbuckles with steel cables

Thanks Waynec,

I have a Michael's Craft Store right down the road. I get a lot of "tools" from them and I'm sure they will have chain. I will have to take in the top of the hull, to gauge the size I need. I'm not sure if they carry any sort of balsa wood... Will need that to make 4x4 blocks for the tracks.

Eric - they should have some balsa but basswood works better, a bit tighter grain. i use it for 1/35 and 1/72 RR ties. another trick for chain and rope is to take a figure. you know what the real stuff would look like in your hand so lay the thread or chain on the figure's hand and see if it looks to scale.

i have one of those flatcars from 8 years ago partially done. may be time to dig it out and see if it is salvageable. also we have a RR Group Build in the group build forum if you want to join.

I saw that Wayne, wasn't sure if it was just for Rail "Armor" like a rail gun, or anything, If possible still, I will join!

Thanks!

The Micheal's stores in DFW all seem to have MidWest Balsa in them but no basswood--which is a shame.  You can take a stick of 3/16" square bass and "worry" the edges with a set of slip-joint pliars.  The bass will take the impression without getting mushy, but still look used.

As to chain, oval will look better than round if you can find it.  From that photo those links are maybe 75-100mm long.  Call that 3" for discussion's sake.  Further, call that 3/32"  32/3 is about 11, so, if you can find some 11-12 links-per-inch jewelry chain

Some progress from this eve. More small parts, linkage and railing added. Will be working on the base and get ready for some airbrushing and weathering.

Micro-Mark has oval chain with either 9 or 10 links to an inch which is about right for 3/8" chain in 1/35 scale. Chain is measured by the diameter of the rod that it was fabricated from.

However the picture of the tank on the flatcar seems to only show wood blocking. Given the scarcity of steel during the war would the Germans have used chain if wood blocking would do?

Nice looking build, look forward to seeing more. I take it your having the engine decks open.

waynec

Eric - they should have some balsa but basswood works better, a bit tighter grain. i use it for 1/35 and 1/72 RR ties. another trick for chain and rope is to take a figure. you know what the real stuff would look like in your hand so lay the thread or chain on the figure's hand and see if it looks to scale.

i have one of those flatcars from 8 years ago partially done. may be time to dig it out and see if it is salvageable. also we have a RR Group Build in the group build forum if you want to join.

Here's an update (I also entered this one into the Iron Rails 2015 GB) There are more updates there.

Rail car is ready for weathering. Up to this point, I air brushed Tamiya Neutral Grey and German Grey for highlights. Then hand brushed Dark Yellow, Khaki and a bit of Neutral Grey on top, for the wooden deck:  

I am starting to get more done on the Panther G:

Nice!

Gloss coated and initial oil wash on. Once fully dry, will remove a bit more of the weathering wash and work on the trucks:

Bish

Nice looking build, look forward to seeing more. I take it your having the engine decks open.

For sure Bish..if I'm putting that much work into the engine...others will see it too!!

More assembly done, on the Panther G. Finished the turret interior, Working on the Resin engine comparment and more details to be placed for sure. Just a preview of how it will look on the railcar:

Working on the base now....

Loving the work here, that flatcar looks really nice.