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Quick question/help with Friul tracks

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  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Quick question/help with Friul tracks
Posted by Reaper420 on Friday, May 1, 2015 1:00 AM
Hey guys, I haven't posted in a while, but I had a quick question. I know it's kinda dumb as I could figure it out myself but I'm doing things slightly backwards. Anyway, I have a Tamiya 1/35 Tiger I Mid. I purchased a set of Friul metal Tiger Tracks mid/late. There are a total of 220 links (110 per side). Do I use all 110 per side or are there some extra that serve as damaged replacement tracks that are on the model as in on the front hull or around the sides of the turret? I only ask because I am assembling the tracks first (very time consuming and tedious!) and have not even opened the Tiger yet. Any one built the same setup and can offer help and advice? I appreciate it!

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: England
Posted by P mitch on Friday, May 1, 2015 2:09 AM

Reaper

I'd build 100 then see how they fit. The last few leave the pins long just in case too. Dont be surprised if you have different numbers on each side that can happen. There are always more than you need but dont forget the amount of sag you need on a tiger.

Phil

"If anybody ever tells you anything about an aeroplane which is so bloody complicated you can't understand it, take it from me: it's all balls." R J Mitchell


  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by pordoi on Friday, May 1, 2015 7:31 AM

What Phil said, though I might even go a few shorter initially.  I built the Tamiya Tiger several years ago and if I remember, I needed about 95 per side.  I find it easier to add links rather that remove them, but you can do it either way.

 

Don

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Friday, May 1, 2015 10:37 AM
Thanks guys. I left the last 25 or so tracks for each side with the pins sticking out so that I can adjust when I finally get to work with the model. Will post pics (new thread) once I get started.

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Dripping Springs, TX, USA
Posted by RBaer on Friday, May 1, 2015 10:54 AM

Another idea: I assemble Friuls and SpadeAce in groups of 10 links, just to make them easier to handle, then when I'm ready to install them, put groups of 10 together until I need fewer than 10 links to complete a run, leaving one long pin for dis-assembly and painting.

And yes, for torsion bar suspended tanks, it's common to use more links on one side. Also, expect to have numerous un-used links, great for spares.

But wait, there's more!

Friul-supplied wire for the pins is soft and holds the curvature from being coiled for packaging. I have much better results using appropriately-sized steel or brass wire, commonly available in good hardwate stores and model shops. It's cheap, straight and usually can be inserted without having to open the holes in the links with a tiny, expensive and easily broken micro-sized drill bit.

Sorry for the wordy reply, but I use Friuls and Spade Ace metal indies a lot and have finally worked up some pretty good methods to make them as painless as possible.

I've got a pretty nifty painting method too, involves the use of a pool toy........  ;)

Apprentice rivet counter.

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Friday, May 1, 2015 10:59 AM
RBaer, thanks for the tip! What size wire do you purchase from the hardware store or doES it vary? I'm interested in NOT having to drill out those holes anymore. Also what is your "pool toy" method. You've piqued my interest.

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Dripping Springs, TX, USA
Posted by RBaer on Friday, May 1, 2015 11:59 AM

Gladly given!

Depends on the size of the track link and how much "meat" there is for a hole, but most  I've done have taken .020" wire. Exceptions: the Merk4 links from Spade Ace are fairly thin, and .015" is working fine. Friul's M18 Hellcat links need smaller wire also, probably as would most links of similar size. Friul KV tracks work great using .020", no drilling required. The SA M113 tracks I did a while ago needed .015" wire.

When I go to the hardware store, I bring my calipers and measure the wire, as it's often mis-labeled: what has a .020" label can be anywhere from .017" to .022" from most suppliers. I generally buy all they have that's between .020" and .010".

You may want to experiment with brass wire as well, as it's easier to file the ends of the clipped-off lengths flat.

Here's another wrench in the werks: Spade Ace supplies a slightly stiffer wire than Friul, and because I couldn't find my required .015" wire at my regular supplier the other day, I tried SA's wire. It actually works nicely, stiff enough to insert easily and soft enough to quickly file the ends flat.

I can't take full credit for my pool toy painting tool, I read about someone using a round cardboard tube to drape the track runs over, which makes it easy to paint the portions of the links not visible with the tracks straight. I tried it and as I rolled the tube to paint, the tracks slid off the tube unless the exact same amount of track was over-hanging the tube on each side. Am I describing this well enough?

So to prevent this from happening, I grabbed an old "pool noodle" (it's a pool floatie toy made from extruded closed-cell  foam in about three foot lengths, usually about 5" in diameter) out of the garage, cut about a foot off of it and draped my track run over it. The closed-cell foam is coarse enough that the teeth and outer "cleats" on the track links prevent the runs from sliding off, allowing me to roll the "noodle" to get to the ends of the runs. Old noodles that have been exposed to sunlight for a while work best, since the outer layer of foam is breaking down, giving a more coarse surface for the tracks to "bite" into.

Works better than it should........

Apprentice rivet counter.

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Friday, May 1, 2015 2:02 PM
That's ingenious! -I would have never thought of that. Man, the stuff we come up with for our hobby! Thanks for all the advice and I will be making a trip to the hardware store later today for some wire.

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Dripping Springs, TX, USA
Posted by RBaer on Friday, May 1, 2015 3:16 PM

You're welcome!

Apprentice rivet counter.

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Friday, May 1, 2015 4:24 PM
BTW, does anyone know of a company or where I can get some metal sprocket wheels for my 1/35 Tamiya Tiger I Mid. Ones that will work with the Friul tracks for a mid/late tiger I. I just wanted to add some more "flash" and weight to the model.

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Friday, May 1, 2015 11:42 PM

Reaper420
I just wanted to add some more "flash" and weight to the model.

 Easy weight can be achieved by picking up a cheap and "weighty" old phone at the thrift store and tearing it apart.

http://images.zaazu.com/img/crushed-crushed-heavy-balcksmith-smiley-emoticon-000581-facebook.gifThe handset usually has solid lead ballast to keep it hefty. I usually load up all my tanks.

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Grand Bay, New Brunswick ,Canada
Posted by MECHTECH on Sunday, May 3, 2015 6:31 AM

According to the Speilberger Book on Tiger Tanks there were 96 links per side.

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