rubber tank tracks

I leave the idler and sprocket loose so they turn, then I walk the track on rather than stretching it . Once it's on you can glue the idler to strengthen it.

That, and try placing your tracks in very hot water just before you install them.

I'm guessing you're having this problem with Italeri tracks? They're probably the worst as far as being stiff and difficult to use.

Recently, I have had luck with better fit if I do not prime or paint the tracks before they are put over a loose idler.  

Leddy

see if there is a kit review. i learned quickly that the Italeri LVT tracks are tight and usually shear the idler drive shaft. knowing this i break the kit drive shaft off, make a bigger hole and add a thicker shaft, and CYA it to the hull. usually i put all the wheels on but the idler, hook the track around the drive sprocket and road wheels, slip the idler inside the track and stretch to attach the idler to the hull CYA and accelerator may be necessary but this has worked for me on 1/35 and OTS (1/72)

Yup.....here is the best tip.......don't use them!!!! I hate the approach many companies are taking now with this rubber band track BS. Tamiya has some kits that come with both rubber and plastic links so you can use either or. I prefer to use metal tracks on all my tanks that I can. I'm not saying they are better, I just love metal tracks. But if you can get a good set of plastic, resin or metal tracks for a decent price, then I would do that and never use bs rubber band tracks again.

A hair dryer on low is your friend

when using the rubber bands, i soak them in hot water then hang them with a 1/4 oz weight pinned at the bottom. unless they are really junk track(i've had them snap also), works out pretty good, and i can get some sag(not like workable links of course) but somewhat passable.