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Robert,
Thank you.
Marcus
Pawel,
Thank you for the feedback and advice. The tracks were one piece so I wasn't able to remove any links.
Nicely done here, It is a shame about the tracks some times you just half to call something done. Job well done.
Robert
Hello!
Your model is looking good! Sorry about the tracks - have you tried taking a link or two out of them? that would really help to improve the looks even further. One more tip that might help you - if you weather the running gear of a tank, it helps to start right from a mud colour base and put some OD on top of that in places that are "somewhat clean" as opposed to painting the chassis OD/green and trying to dirty it up - this can leave "clean" spots in places where they absolutely shouldn't be.
Anyhow, congratulations on your "first", thanks for sharing and have a nice day
Paweł
All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!
www.vietnam.net.pl
I cannot believe it has been four months since my last post.
Will I done all I want to do to this kit before I do anymore damage to it. If have to re-glue another handrail........ The replacement tracks are to long for the vehicle even though the vendor says they will fit. I used them because the rubber band tracks where really bad shape.
I am very new to modeling and this kit was my first armor/track model. It was door prize at a meet. I used this model to do my first weathering, after-market items, figures and P.E. I would like to thank everyone out there who has posted their work on internet. Now I know what the difference is between a wash, filter, dot filters, etc..
I weathered the Kangaroo to look like it spent a lot of time traveling through northwest europe. I didn't use any mud pigments only washes to muddy up the vehicle. The next one will be with the proper pigments so mud looks like mud.
Enough words, enjoy (I hope) the pictures.
Thanks for the advice. I believe I know now to proceed with the accessories. Again, thank you.
Marcus McBean Need some advice on how to proceed before I spay on the primer. Should I mount all of the packs, crates, accessories to the Kangaroo before I spray on the primer and base coat and then paint the accessories or paint the accessories first and then add them after the vehicle has been painted? I really couldn't find anything on you-tube addressing this issue. Seems to me that gluing before would make a better bond than gluing them to the paint.
Need some advice on how to proceed before I spay on the primer. Should I mount all of the packs, crates, accessories to the Kangaroo before I spray on the primer and base coat and then paint the accessories or paint the accessories first and then add them after the vehicle has been painted? I really couldn't find anything on you-tube addressing this issue. Seems to me that gluing before would make a better bond than gluing them to the paint.
Its all down to personal preferance. I add all the tools and other items after painting.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
It depends --- for lots of rucksacks and such, sometimes I primer and paint the kit with them off, sometimes on.
By leaving them off, I can paint and detial the stowage better (complete access to every surface).
As for mounting them on the vehicle afterwards, you simply strategically scrape away paint from the contact surfaces -- no issues.
One additional bit of advice for the new modeler: consider location and how a 10 lb. bag would be attached to a moving/undulating vehicle. 1) how is it strapped on? Don't magically affix a backpack to a vertical surface. 2) during ups and downs, where might the stowage item shift to or block? Do any of the items prevent vision or exhaust/air intake of the vehicle?
A pet peeve of mine are models where there's no possible way for drivers/gunners/commanders to see anything b/c the builder placed blankets or rucksacks over everthing. Also blocking the free traverse/elevation of weapons.
Summation: think logically -- you've packed for a long trip before: where did you place your stuff? Think the same. Get down at eye level for a 1/35 person.
Roy Chow
Join AMPS!
http://www.amps-armor.org
I knew about the Archer/Sexton issue (and there were no Valentines/Comets back in the early-mid 90s for loaner chassis).
Good to learn the rest, though.
GMorrison "Defrocked Priests".
"Defrocked Priests".
Could be the start of a naughty joke, a Monty Python skit, or a heated discussion here...
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Pawel is mis-reading the wikipedia article. The Italeri kit is basically correct (although if one wants to be pedantic, a modeler might switch out the upraised VVS return roller arms for the horizontal ones).
And CapnMac82, you're incorrect -- the photo that Stikpusher posted in the preceding page (and according to the Wikipedia article), M7 105mm Priests WERE converted by having their howitzers removed. While some Rams were used, M7 Priests were clearly used too.
When you mention "25pdr armed Priest" that's incorrect as there is no such thing. You're talking about the 25pdr Sexton SPG, based on the RAM chassis. This was a completely different AFV than the M7 Priest. Indeed, their appearance caused commonwealth units to find the M7s obsolete (as they were used to the 25pdr vs the 105mm howitzer) which gave rise to the excess chasses available for conversion into Priest Kanagroos. I know of no 25pdr Sextons that were converted to personnel carriers. The Sextons were highly valued.
Might be worth picking up a Universal Carrier, if only to get some useful spares.
IIRC, the Canadians used the 'Roos largely for lumbering around the Weapons Platoons. Despite the resemblance to the M& Priest, these were built on Cnadian Ram chasis (which spoilt my plans for a 25pdr armed Priest with a 'Roo as support vehicle.).
Pawe,
The kit I have is based on M7 priest kit Italeri's put out before the Kangaroo kit. Thanks for checking, there were quite of few tank chasis that were modified into personnel carriers and its they were all called Kangaroos.
One thing - please check this out here:
en.wikipedia.org/.../Kangaroo_%28armoured_personnel_carrier%29
It says the Kangaroo was based on either M3 chassis or the Canadian Ram chassis - so please check which one you have and watch for the (OK, subtle) differences between those vehicles and the Sherman.
Hope it helps, good luck with your project and have a nice day
Sherman's can be seductive ;) Have fun!
Roy,
Thank you for the link, it is most helpful. Now I have a gasp of what the heck everyone is talking about.
This might be a handy reference too
www.usarmymodels.com/.../shermanvariants.html
It's a bit dated (many of the kit recommendations have been superseded) but can serve as a handy reference tool.
GMorrison, Thank you for the link. It has greatly increase my knowledge of Sherman tanks ten fold.
Marcus McBean I don't know the different styles of tracks used on American tanks in WW2, there must have been a standard based on the vehicle's purpose, weight, horsepower, speed, etc.? Marcus
I don't know the different styles of tracks used on American tanks in WW2, there must have been a standard based on the vehicle's purpose, weight, horsepower, speed, etc.?
Good old kit to get your feet wet, just take your time, and everything will come together
Yes, they are nice tracks compared to the tracks in the kit. Looking at images of Kangaroos, Shermans and Priests it looks like I could use either style of track, flat (paddle?) or ribbed (V-notch). I don't know the different styles of tracks used on American tanks in WW2, there must have been a standard based on the vehicle's purpose, weight, horsepower, speed, etc.?
Yep, there's lots of alternative tracks available in styrene. Looks like this one should be suitable (illustration purposes only) http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/bncab3538.htm
I use a mix of acrylics and enamels for figures, although enamels are my preferred type. I would not use metal tracks on a Sherman vehicle. There is no need for sag on them. AFV Club, Bronco, and some other companies make plastic link tracks for Shermans that will fit your needs for in the $20 range give or take a few bucks.
Stikpusher, I don't have a Sherman to spare and I just about spent my limit on those figures and still have to purchase extra gear, so I think I will be sticking with the ones that came with the kit. Believe me I was looking on line at tracks. I couldn't believe that they sell metal tracks for these kits and at $60 plus a set. To rich for by blood.
Nice job on the figure, is it easier/better to use acrylic or enamel paint on these figures?
Here is one of the Bronco crew figures with my Kangaroo. I also replaced teh kit tracks with some taken from a Tamiya Sherman of a type more commonly seen on the Kangaroo
You read my mind about the use of those Italeri figures.
Cool, I think you'll be very happy with them. I'll second SP that MA and Bronco make really good stuff! BTW hang on to those Italeri figures- they're great to practice painting of figures.
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
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