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M4A3 (76)W engine.

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  • Member since
    July 2015
M4A3 (76)W engine.
Posted by Liveaxle on Wednesday, July 15, 2015 11:24 AM
I've come up inconclusive for the motor type to go into academy's m4a3 (76)w . Is it the Ford or continental radial?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Thursday, July 16, 2015 2:08 PM

All M4A3 had the Ford GAA motor -- that's what made it an M4A3 -- the radial was used in the M4 and M4A1 only.

Roy Chow 

Join AMPS!

http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2015
Posted by Liveaxle on Saturday, July 18, 2015 9:42 PM
Thanks. Took a while to find a factual site to steer me strait and surprisingly wiki got it right as well. I knew there was a turnover at model change...but ya gotta be sure. Thanks again.
  • Member since
    July 2015
Posted by Liveaxle on Saturday, July 18, 2015 9:46 PM
Ok on that end who makes a proper engine kit. Don't care if its for a specific model maker brand. I'll make it work. Also good engine gratings n cannon? PS This is my first model in 25 years. No foolin'!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Sunday, July 19, 2015 8:27 AM

Verlinden mades two resin,  full M4A3 Ford GAA engine plus engine compartment kits.  The 1st one is number 1136 and included a replacement engine deck.   It's OK but there is no detail whatsoever on the underside of the engine deck grate.  Kinda defeats the purpose no? It was designed for the Tamiya kits.

The newer kit is #2644 and omits the engine deck. It's designed for the modern Asuka/Tasca kits which already have nice, separate engine deck grates.

My advice for you is to get the cheaper of the two (2644 or 1136) and beg and plead for someone on the various AFV classified sites, to send you a pair of M4A3 engine deck grates.  Then add the duct work beneath the doors yourself. (Formations Models (currently not in production until after Sept 1) has a replacement set of engine grates plus the duct work beneath them.

But my most serious advice for you is this: just build the kit.  Don't worry about adding a resin engine.  You want to get something done.  If you start getting bogged down now, acquiring items and adding weeks/months to your very first build -- your momentum will grind down to  a standstill.  Finish the Academy M4A3 and take the money you'd use for the replacement engine/engine compartment and buy another injection plastic kit that already has a nice open-able engine compartment.  There are plenty out there.  Just post again and we can advise you.  

Don't do the engine.  Finish the Sherman!

(one bit of advice on the suspension: place the kit, without tracks, on a level surface and glue all twelve road wheel arms in place -- don't let them rock back and forth.)

Roy Chow 

Join AMPS!

http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2015
Posted by Liveaxle on Sunday, July 19, 2015 7:18 PM
Nice! Good advice. I resto mod classic cars and always amass the lot of crap I need. It really shouldn't carry over here, I know. With that I'll just build it.....aaaaand save up the parts for my ED 209/Hitler's secret weapons project. Thanks again. Always in over my head!!!
  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Sunday, July 19, 2015 7:37 PM

Hey the Dragon M 4 A 4 kit is great. I finished a version from it recently, and it had sprues from at least two OTHER Dragon Sherman kits. Great value.

Now maybe you can help me. I'm looking for two Isotta Fraschini "W" block 18 cylinder engines in 1/35.

Can build them from drawings.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2015
Posted by Liveaxle on Monday, July 20, 2015 9:27 AM
Wow! Let the digging begin! Gotta be a manual out there for that mill.
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