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m901 Hammerhead model question

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  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: East Coast
m901 Hammerhead model question
Posted by CarnivourousDonut on Sunday, December 13, 2015 8:36 AM

I see a number of makers make this kit, which one has best quality and/or easiest to build (and/or accurate?)

 

I recall in college building an M113 from Tamiya and putting on a Verlinden aftermarket TOW outfit, but I also recall it was a royal PITA dealing with the resin...

Let's rattle the cage, crack the machine. Let 'em know who you are, shine to be seen.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Sunday, December 13, 2015 5:25 PM

You might find this earlier discussion of interest.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/101925.aspx

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, December 13, 2015 6:03 PM

All the kits out there currently in 1/35 are basically reboxes of the 25+ year old Italeri molding. It's not great, but not terrible either. For a more accurate kit I would suggest starting with an Academy FISTV kit and taking the Hammerhead TOW Turret off of a Trumpter LAV-TOW. Otherwise the Italeri Hammerhead needs a bit of work as it is overly simplified, and the FISTV Hammerhead needs work also if you were to try to covert that to the TOW Hammerhead. I crewed on ITVs for several years, so it has a special place in my heart & mind.

 

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  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: East Coast
Posted by CarnivourousDonut on Sunday, December 13, 2015 7:20 PM

Thank you. SO basically whichever kit I can grab cheapest on eBay and I'll be good to go

Let's rattle the cage, crack the machine. Let 'em know who you are, shine to be seen.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Monday, December 14, 2015 9:19 AM

A small note on the available M901 kits.  They are all incorrect since they lack the smoke launchers on the front.  You will need to add them to make a proper M901A1.  Also, on the original Italeri kit (and I suspect Revell's reoxing) the blackout drive light is molded upside down.  The half-circle hood should be cut off and turned over 180 degrees so it looks like a "D" on its back at the top of the light.

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