Takom Turtle - armored car in a halfshell! - FineScale Modeler - Essential magazine for scale model builders, model kit reviews, how-to scale modeling, and scale modeling products

Gamera

Member since
November 2009
From: SW Virginia

Posted by Gamera on Monday, March 14, 2016 9:06 PM

Looks fantastic G!

I used a Sharpie marker for my Char bis but as you said I've heard people had issues with them. So far it looks fine but I'm not sure I'd use one again.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

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Bish

Member since
December 2002
From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England

Posted by Bish on Monday, March 14, 2016 3:20 PM

Now that looks impressive G, you got to lve that scheme. Some nice work on those healights as well.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

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disastermaster

Member since
July 2003
From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.

Posted by disastermaster on Monday, March 14, 2016 3:09 PM

Looks like a masking success.
Some weathering should make it POP!

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Real G

Member since
May 2011
From: Honolulu, Hawaii

Posted by Real G on Monday, March 14, 2016 3:07 PM

Gamera,

What did you use to line your color demarcations for your Char B1 bis? I wanted to try the Gundam marker because I seriously stink at hand painting. I have read about others using permanent marker, but the ink fades under UV light and turns light purple over time.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

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Real G

Member since
May 2011
From: Honolulu, Hawaii

Posted by Real G on Monday, March 14, 2016 2:27 PM

After a marathon painting session, the base colors are on:

https://flic.kr/p/Fc5D5k][/url]Skoda-022 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/EJvBhE][/url]Skoda-023 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/F1p1tE][/url]Skoda-024 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/EJwhcy][/url]Skoda-025 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

I rushed it so I made some errors (plus the topside view on the instruction sheet is BACKWARDS relative to the left and right views), so I need another round to refine the camo scheme. I am pleased with how the Silly Putty performed though.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

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Gamera

Member since
November 2009
From: SW Virginia

Posted by Gamera on Saturday, March 12, 2016 8:09 PM

Nice smooth job there G, lookin' good!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

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Real G

Member since
May 2011
From: Honolulu, Hawaii

Posted by Real G on Friday, March 11, 2016 12:14 PM

Okay guys, first color is on:

https://flic.kr/p/F7f8pQ][/url]Skoda-021 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

I did a last-minute change, substituting Dark Ghost Gray. I mixed in some leftover Mr. Topcoat Gloss to get a satin finish, which will hopefully keep the Silly Putty from sticking in the nooks and crannies. BTW do NOT mix Gunze lacquers with MM enamels, as you will get separation and all kinds of funky stuff. I just cranked up the air pressure and kept going, but will not do this ever again in the future. It might be the new sucky formula lacquer thinner - I have been having trouble with it dissolving MM enamels.

I found some Mr. Resin Primer in my paint drawer, so I used it to prime the wheels. It says on the label that it is a cellulose-based type paint - good old fashioned dope? It mixed properly with lacquer thinner, went on smooth, and dried quickly. So far so good.

I got lazy and just rattle canned the black primer for the guns out in the laundry, as it was getting late and the cats were already back in the patio for the night.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

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Gamera

Member since
November 2009
From: SW Virginia

Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, March 9, 2016 9:23 PM

Thanks DM. I like that freezer idea and think I'm going to give it a try when I pull the stuff off the current project I'm using it on.

And thanks RBaer for the advice on reusing the stuff, I've done it several times so far without issues but I'm going to be more careful from here out.

G: I've got the Takom British Tortoise assault gun and it seems to be pretty well molded. Guess I should pull the thing out and look her over again. Nice work there on fixing the kits issues.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

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Real G

Member since
May 2011
From: Honolulu, Hawaii

Posted by Real G on Wednesday, March 9, 2016 9:20 PM

Yep Gamera, that is a fine Char B1 bis you got there!

A little bit more on the not-so-good molding of the Takom Turtle and then it's off to the paint shop:

https://flic.kr/p/EXjxS8][/url]Skoda-013b by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

The headlight rims have mold slip lines going right through the rivets, so they got lost in the filling/sanding process. New ones were punched from 0.010 styrene sheet using a beading tool.

https://flic.kr/p/F4chpC][/url]Skoda-013a by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

The machine gun barrels suffered similarly, so they were scraped and sanded until more or less acceptable. Here two of the four units are undergoing fixy-fixy.

For lining the camouflage colors, I am thinking of using one of those Gundam pens (the solvent based ones). I'm not sure if they will run under a clear coat though. I'll have to do some tests.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

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disastermaster

Member since
July 2003
From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.

Posted by disastermaster on Wednesday, March 9, 2016 8:43 PM

Gamera

Hmm, interesting DM, I've never tried the freezer. I've used Silly Putty for masking four-five times so far and never had any issues with it.

It appears that you got some really good results here.

Looks super! I'm glad it turned out so nicely without any problems.

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Gamera

Member since
November 2009
From: SW Virginia

Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, March 9, 2016 12:58 PM

Oh cool, love that photo of them sitting next to each other with the 222.

And forgot you live in Hawaii, the freezer idea might be useful there!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

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Real G

Member since
May 2011
From: Honolulu, Hawaii

Posted by Real G on Wednesday, March 9, 2016 12:54 PM

Gamera

I'd seen this for sale and thought it was pretty cool looking- thanks for letting us watch your build here!

I'm assuming it and your Colonial Marine APC are different scales, would be interesting seeing them together.

Gamera, actually the Turtle and APC are the same scale (1/35):

https://flic.kr/p/ECrVFC]

[/url]Skoda-014a by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Although the APC dwarfs the Turtle, the Turtle is noticeably larger than the Sdkfz.222 next to it. And yet the interior was cramped; another factor which contributed to its real-life unpopularity.

Guys thanks for the tips on the Silly Putty. Hawaii is hot almost all the time, so I will be careful! But there is a cold front moving through the islands at the moment (less than 70 degrees F - oh soooo cold!) Stick out tongue

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

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RBaer

Member since
September 2006
From: Dripping Springs, TX, USA

Posted by RBaer on Wednesday, March 9, 2016 10:29 AM

The only issue I've ever had with Silly Putty was probably my fault in that I used it too many times and after it accumulated a fair amount of paint mixed in with it, it turned semi-liquid on my model. I was able to remove it without harming the paint, but it gave me a scare.

Apprentice rivet counter.

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Gamera

Member since
November 2009
From: SW Virginia

Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, March 9, 2016 7:47 AM

Hmm, interesting DM, I've never tried the freezer. I've used Silly Putty for masking four-five times so far and never had any issues with it.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

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disastermaster

Member since
July 2003
From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.

Posted by disastermaster on Wednesday, March 9, 2016 7:39 AM

When silly putty gets warm.......

it slowly tends to spread out.

You should apply it in a cool environment and apply the paint before it warms up and starts causing problems.

Alternately, you could apply all the putty on the model for each color (or however you wann'a do it) and stick it in the freezer for about 20 minutes before painting to forestall the spreading effect...and...

.....wouldn't hurt to put it back in the freeze to dry so you can remove the silly putty easier.

And, it goes without saying, never put silly putty on photoetch details.

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Gamera

Member since
November 2009
From: SW Virginia

Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, March 9, 2016 7:35 AM

I'd seen this for sale and thought it was pretty cool looking- thanks for letting us watch your build here!

I'm assuming it and your Colonial Marine APC are different scales, would be interesting seeing them together.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

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GMorrison

Member since
September 2012

Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, March 8, 2016 11:27 PM

That thing has "Tintin" all over!

Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

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SprueOne

Member since
January 2006
From: California

Posted by SprueOne on Tuesday, March 8, 2016 10:10 PM

Real G

. . . . Nevertheless, it looks like a really cool sci-fi steam punk vehicle, and has some crazy paint schemes!

https://flic.kr/p/vXhUWo][/url]Skoda-002 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/v4ESwt]

def sci-fi potential here and Ma.K too

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

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Pawel

Member since
May 2009
From: Poland

Posted by Pawel on Tuesday, March 8, 2016 4:04 PM

Hello!

That crazy armored car looks good! What were they thinking putting on tires like that?

I did use "Patafix" for masking several times, and while it definitely could work here, it's best for painting narrow feathered edges. Here, for sharp-edged camouflage some flexible tape would probably be best (there's the one by Kyosho, called Micron-line), you also have those brush-painted demarcation lines that will mask the edges anyway, so you can really experiment on this one. Good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

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Bish

Member since
December 2002
From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England

Posted by Bish on Tuesday, March 8, 2016 3:29 PM

Now thats a neat subject, can't wait to se it painted. I have not used silly putty, so afraid i can't comment.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

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Real G

Member since
May 2011
From: Honolulu, Hawaii

Posted by Real G on Tuesday, March 8, 2016 3:08 PM

I forgot to mention that DEF Models resin tires have been substituted for the kit's vinyl ones. I just don't trust vinyl on plastic kits. The DEF wheels are well molded, easy to separate from their pour stubs, and have "Goodyear" sidewall detail.

https://flic.kr/p/E4gNZ3][/url]Skoda-019 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

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Real G

Member since
May 2011
From: Honolulu, Hawaii

Takom Turtle - armored car in a halfshell!

Posted by Real G on Tuesday, March 8, 2016 3:01 PM

https://flic.kr/p/w117EV][/url]Skoda-001 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

I was really surprised when Takom announced an injection molded kit of this very unusual Czech pre-WW II armored car. I am drawn to weird subjects, so I instantly fell in love with the design. The real thing was loved much less so, as it was big, heavy, under powered, and had poor cross-county performance due to its skinny tires and low ground clearance. According to the kit box, only a dozen were built, three going to the Vienna police and the remainder being belatedly accepted by the Czech police. Nevertheless, it looks like a really cool sci-fi steam punk vehicle, and has some crazy paint schemes!

https://flic.kr/p/vXhUWo][/url]Skoda-002 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/v4ESwt][/url]Skoda-003 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/v4EPSF][/url]Skoda-004 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/vJ3DB4][/url]Skoda-005 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/vZUxYJ][/url]Skoda-006 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Takom's kit comprises a slide molded body shell, with most of the remaining parts duplicated to form the nearly symmetrical front to rear vehicle. The real thing featured four wheel drive and the ability to be driven in either direction so it is not surprising that the parts look the same. I suppose it saved Takom some tooling costs to provide duplicate sprues, but I found the floor pan and ladder frame breakdown created extra seam filling work. Plus the ladder frame is visibly hollow on the ends, which could have been avoided if the entire frame was molded as a single part. I went the lazy route and just left it as is.

https://flic.kr/p/wzin9z][/url]Skoda-013 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/E7KKLX][/url]Skoda-017 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

The wheel well inserts fit poorly to the body shell, requiring some fairly heavy trimming of the body where the mismatched slide mold lines were. If this is ignored, the inserts push out the body shell, which will lead to gaps along the rocker panels. I found the fit of this kit to be generally "not too good", with lots of trimming and sanding being required. The upper cab is made up of four quadrants, which require adjustment to fit properly. These must be fettled for a close fit, as there are a lot of rivets at the join lines that need to be protected. The drive components and machine guns did not align precisely, and I breifly considered replacing the guns with machined brass aftermarket items. But in the end, I felt it would be a waste of perfectly good aftermarket parts, so I just scraped and filed the wonky kit gun barrels as best as I could.

https://flic.kr/p/xwLBRp][/url]Skoda-012 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Now for the scary part - painting the crazy-quilt scheme! This will be the first time I will be using Silly Putty to mask off the colors. Paints have been selected.

https://flic.kr/p/EQuEXU][/url]Skoda-019 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr