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Looking for an M48 Patton model

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, March 27, 2016 9:49 PM

 

why were we there???

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Wednesday, March 23, 2016 10:03 AM

.

  • Member since
    April 2015
  • From: Detroit, MURDER CITY
Posted by RudyOnWheels on Tuesday, March 22, 2016 12:41 PM

OldGoat

No,

but......

Dragon's instruction sheets leave a lot to be desired. Study them closely and take your time. 

Dragon takes detail to an etreme level sometimes. They will use three itty bitty parts when one small part will suffice. Take your time when building one of these kits.

Oh, and did I mention to take your time when building a Dragon kit? 

 

I wholeheartedly agree. I have not built an M48 yet, (next on my list) but the Dragon 251 Halftrack I am building, the instructions are pretty poor IMO. They often cover too much on single steps and you havent the faintest idea as to what the order is of the build. The Cannon in the back of the 251 was like this..... It is my first dragon kit. Good Luck!!!

  Rudy

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, March 18, 2016 11:59 PM

I like them, but I've only built two armor and two ships.

Crit #1. They engineering of the parts fit is too tight.  Where there's parts that fit to other parts, like lift hooks on turrets, the tab on the one that fits into the slot on the other is exactly the same size. Always dry fit everything before applying glue.

#2. The instructions usually are kind of brief, nice drawings but they'll cover the entire assembly in eight or so exploded drawings involving a couple of dozen parts each.

Do a dress rehearsal each time to make sure you understand what goes where.

Otherwise quite swell.

 

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Friday, March 18, 2016 8:55 PM

Oh yeah, those instructions....  leave much to be desired. Make sure you have good picture references and study them thoroughly.

Dragon kits build up nicely, even when the details or proportions are off. They still make a convincing model.

The Dragon M-103A2 builds up well, but is the bane of every rivet counter in the hobby lol.

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    June 2015
Posted by OldGoat on Friday, March 18, 2016 7:24 PM

No,

but......

Dragon's instruction sheets leave a lot to be desired. Study them closely and take your time. 

Dragon takes detail to an etreme level sometimes. They will use three itty bitty parts when one small part will suffice. Take your time when building one of these kits.

Oh, and did I mention to take your time when building a Dragon kit? 

  • Member since
    March 2016
Posted by Patton101st on Friday, March 18, 2016 6:56 PM

Are Dragon kits really as hard to make as everyone says?

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Friday, March 18, 2016 10:39 AM

I totally read that in his voice lol!

Ya dang right I want to build one of those! lol  :)

"Take you weapon and strike me down with it. Then your journey to the Dark Side will be complete."

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, March 18, 2016 2:28 AM

M. Brindos

The new Dragon M-48A1?

 

You want this... don't you?

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Thursday, March 17, 2016 12:57 PM

The new Dragon M-48A1?

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, March 17, 2016 12:35 PM

The new A1 looks good in the box. It also has lots of options, I need to figure those out. At first glance they look like A2 components.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, March 17, 2016 12:09 PM

M. Brindos

Must. Have. GA2.  :)

I think I may be coming down with an M-48 obsession.... :/

 

You and me both. I recently acquired the new RG A2. Want to get the new Dragon A1 and the RG A2GA2... as well as the old Academy A5... And Leopard 1s...Surprise

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Thursday, March 17, 2016 11:42 AM

Must. Have. GA2.  :)

I think I may be coming down with an M-48 obsession.... :/

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, March 17, 2016 11:32 AM

Rob Gronovius
They do two new ones, the M48A2GA2 and the standard M48A2/A2C. You can thank me for the GA2; I had started a conversion using the ancient Monogram kit and the nearly 30 year old Lo Models conversion for the German version.
 

Isn't that the way it always happens? You start a conversion or scratch project and as you near the finish line, somebody comes out with the kit.

BTW, the new Revell Germany M48A2/A2C kit comes with US Army markings, as well as IDF. Plus the box art Bundeswehr markings. I have the kit in my stash.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Thursday, March 17, 2016 10:28 AM

Patton101st

 

 
Rob Gronovius

If you are not stuck on an M48A3, Revell has a new M48A2/A2C out (not the old Monogram one). It includes two US Army versions. It is probably a better option than a 40 year old kit. Not that the Tamiya kit is bad, just a bit dated with inaccuracies typical of the times.

 

 

 

I could not find the U.S. Army versions, only the German, could you link one for me?

 

This one includes markings for a German Army version, two US Army tanks and an Israeli tank.

http://www.squadron.com/Revell-Germany-1-35-M48-A2-A2C-Patton-Tank-p/rg3206.htm

  • Member since
    March 2016
Posted by Patton101st on Wednesday, March 16, 2016 5:01 PM

Rob Gronovius

If you are not stuck on an M48A3, Revell has a new M48A2/A2C out (not the old Monogram one). It includes two US Army versions. It is probably a better option than a 40 year old kit. Not that the Tamiya kit is bad, just a bit dated with inaccuracies typical of the times.

 

I could not find the U.S. Army versions, only the German, could you link one for me?

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Tuesday, March 15, 2016 1:39 PM

Another good suggestion indeed. That kit does not come with figures included however. A good kit though, and a much newer molding. The reviews have been fair.  :)

I'm still looking to add it to my own collection. The Valkyrie Minatures German tank crew for the era would be a perfect match.

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Tuesday, March 15, 2016 11:06 AM

.

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Tuesday, March 15, 2016 9:53 AM

For a base color you can use Tan. That should basically serve you well to start, but there are a lot of techniques that can really make your figures come to life. They range from simple, to advanced, to crazy realistic.

Your question leads to a whole new world of painting lol. I suggest you start watching tutorial videos on YouTube. There are plenty to choose from and there are plenty of styles that you may find interesting.

Being in the advanced category myself, there is plenty I could tell you, but being a first time painter it would quickly overwhelm you and probably make you give up before you get a chance to like figure painting lol.

So yeah, tan should work for now. The only thing you should worry about at this point is getting good clean lines and clearly defined separations between your colors. This is called "Blocking" and it is the first skill you need to learn.

I hope that doesn't sound patronising or sarcastic. Its really an enjoyable part of modelling and a valuable set of skills to add to your armor and aircraft modelling.

Good luck and don't give up. It takes time to get the results you want. We'll be here to help.  :)

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    March 2016
Posted by Patton101st on Monday, March 14, 2016 5:09 PM

What color for the faces of the figure do you recommend?

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, March 14, 2016 11:31 AM

Yup, that's a good one.

AFA as Vietnam, one very common modification was to remove the .50 from the commander's cupola set up and switch the mounting to either an upright post welded to the cupola, or to a tripod with it's feet welded to the top of the turret.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by Wood on Monday, March 14, 2016 10:03 AM
Mike is right. Tamiya's M48 is a good first build, and it has some acceptable figures included.
  • Member since
    March 2016
Looking for an M48 Patton model
Posted by Patton101st on Friday, March 11, 2016 8:19 PM

I am looking for a 1/35 scale M48 Patton A3 and I was wondering which model kit of this tank would best serve as someones first model. I would also like some suggestions for stowage/figures for a Vietnam era tank.

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