Aaaaaand, the Pistol port door corrected 

https://postimg.org/image/6ae1q59fp/

Hey everyone, 

Here are a few images of the corrections i've made based off of the communities feedback. I was able to fix most of the errors, but unfortunatly the pistol port door would not come off. Also, i've added considerable stoage :D

Here, you can see that i've turned the 30 cal. gun in the turrett around, and painted both guns gunsteel blue. Also, the lifting hook on the front of the turret is now corrected. 

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I'm still working on the Spare track brackets for the stern of the hull. I'm also seeing some fingerprints in the photos that weren't quite as visible in person. I'll have to work on that. Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks!

I have seen several pictures of Sherman's with one track backwards.  Either they were in a hurry or just didn't care. 

I did wondered, having the track backward effect performance?

Looks great.

WannabeFarmboy

After reading this thread, armor seems like a much tougher egg to crack than I'd hoped initially. Could have something to do with the fact that I've been building, reading about, and studying WWII aircraft most of my life, but I've only dipped a toe in the "armor pool"...but still. 

 

I've just been getting into the hobby over the past few months, and i've tried my hand at figures, armor, and aircraft. I have to say that I've struggled much more with aircraft than I have my Sherman here, or any of my few other armored vehicles. I tried my hand at a bi-plane that wound up in the 'failed' bin. I feel like I get better every build, know how to use my tools and paints more accuratly, and get increasingly better resultes. Despite the few flaws on this kit, i'm definitly going to display her proudly :D. 

All the fun is in mixing research, building, and the artistry of painting and weathering to creat a cool interpretatoin of historical subjects. At least for me. 

Whew, taken care of several corrections. Guns are now painted a more accurate color, Spare Track bins painted, need weathering and attachment to the Tank hull. I've corrected the tracking. Lights to come to night. Afraid there isn't much I can do for pieces already attached such as the door. I'm worried prying it off and regluing it will do more harm than good. In addition to that, i've worked on some stowage to add to the scene. I'll post pics of my revisions later tonight!

Thanks again all!

-Raindog

WannabeFarmboy

After reading this thread, armor seems like a much tougher egg to crack than I'd hoped initially. Could have something to do with the fact that I've been building, reading about, and studying WWII aircraft most of my life, but I've only dipped a toe in the "armor pool"...but still. 

 

Armor is one of the easier genres to model. Remember, a lot of tanks are driven by, painted by and maintained by a group of men who range in age from 18-25. Lose a tail light during construction? Chalk it up to maneuver damage, bend the light guard and leave it off. Camouflage schemes in WW2 and during the Cold War were often painted by the crew by hand with limited resources.

T26E4

One correction, US taillights only had the red upper left oval lens. Below it was a black rectangle. On the right taillight, it was two black rectangular slits too

 

Thanks Roy for the correction. At least I remembered it's red and something else... 

It can seem intimidating for sure -- but that's why forums like this exist. One of the best reasons for being is to post "work in progress" pictures to get tips/advice/warnings from others. Tons of research exists and with the collective, you get to learn things otherwise not known (like my hint above about the lens colors of US WW2 tailllights) or advice from guys/gals who have previously built the same model. 

For me, my digital camera is an essential modeling tool.  I can post pics and let people comment and offer corrections/criticism.

I'm sure for you, your "eye" for realism/accuracy in your aircraft builds has grown over your time in the hobby.  Same thing here -- just a different genre.  Ask me about details of an M4A3 or M4A1 Sherman tank -- I could drone for ages.  Ask me about the shadows and skin tone of a 1/16th scale Napoleonic figure? I'd sit there drooling on myself.  hahaha

After reading this thread, armor seems like a much tougher egg to crack than I'd hoped initially. Could have something to do with the fact that I've been building, reading about, and studying WWII aircraft most of my life, but I've only dipped a toe in the "armor pool"...but still. 

The guys have sharper eyes than I do, I think they've already pointed out most of the issues. 

Only things I'd add is a few simple things, shouldn't take more than ten mins and a sharp brush to fix. 

Paint the hull front and coaxial machine guns a dark grey. Then you can take a pencil and rub it on a piece of paper. Then rub your finger or a cotton swab in the lead and burnish it on the MG to give a slight metallic shine. 

Paint the headlights silver. The tail-lights should be painted red and silver too, I don't remember which lens gives which colour though. Someone here probably knows off his head or just look it up. 

Hmmmm... 
 Looks like somebody welded all those machine gun barrels shut too.

                                                      

T26E4

Thanks for posting. Here are some issues I've seen: 1) The pistol port door on the left turret wall is upside down. Pry it off, glue back on -- and then add putty to meld the lips into the hull wall. There should be no seam. 2) the lift lug above the main gun should run fore to aft -- not sideways 3) your .30 cal co axial gun barrel is installed backwards. The narrow part should protrude 4) Those four vertical slots on the rear hull slab is where the spare track holders belong. They were welded, from the factory. 5) A little late now but next time, make sure you sand away the molding seams on your roadwheels. Hope these help

 

I double checked that door placement and still got it wrong! Oh well, it looks like I've got a few details to sure up. Thanks for the keen eye T26E4! Also, not too late to add the Spare Track bins, i'll just have to paint and weather them on the sprue if I can. I did glue that door down really well though. I may just have to leave it and get it right next time :/

Good catch Phil! I hadn't even thought of it. 

Phil_H

If your tracks aren't permanently attached, you have the left one reversed. When viewed from the front, the "V" points downwards.

 

Phil_H

If your tracks aren't permanently attached, you have the left one reversed. When viewed from the front, the "V" points downwards.

 

That's a heck of a good catch. I  didn't even notice that and heavy equipment repair is my trade. I'm out of my dept on the other stuff though. 

If your tracks aren't permanently attached, you have the left one reversed. When viewed from the front, the "V" points downwards.

should look closer to like this old M4A3

Rob Gronovius

I'd lower the gun tube to a neutral position. It looks like it's duck hunting. The bolt strip at the front of the hull looks like you may have installed it upside down?

 

Yeah not a bad idea on the gun position. As for the bolt strip, it mated with the hull in that position, but I will double check the instructions. Fortunatly I have not yet glued the top of the hull down permenantly, so if there is an issue It will be an easy fix. Good eye, thanks Rob!

I'd lower the gun tube to a neutral position. It looks like it's duck hunting. The bolt strip at the front of the hull looks like you may have installed it upside down?

I'm not really an armor guy, but that's a good lookin build.