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Best Method to Apply Pigments to Tank Treads?

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  • Member since
    June 2016
Best Method to Apply Pigments to Tank Treads?
Posted by David from PA on Wednesday, November 2, 2016 3:52 PM

Hello All,

Getting ready to paint/weather my Mk 1 tank. I've seen several youtube videos about applying pigments but nobody seems to mention how they get the pigments to stick on the treads (or anywhere else for that matter). What should I use to make sure that my pigment powders stay where I put them (really, my pigments are ground up chalk pastels. I'm cheap so I don't want to spend the money for Mig pigments).

David From PA

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, November 2, 2016 4:06 PM

Mix the powder in a small drop of water with a tiny drop of washing up liquid. But you will be hard pushed to get as good results with pastels as you will with pigments.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posted by ridleusmc on Thursday, November 3, 2016 4:33 AM

Bish's method works well.  

Another method that works well for caked on dirt:  

Mix 50/50 water and white (school) glue.  Apply the mix to the area that you want some build-up of dirt or mud.  Use an old brush to stipple or smear the ground pastel onto the model.  I recommend first trying the method on a piece of scrap or on the underside of the hull.    

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by hypertex on Thursday, November 3, 2016 9:31 AM

Several options are available. Mig and AK make a pigment fixer, which is similar to a clear coat. Another option is using a varnish, an acrylic paint medium, or even Humbrol's Decal Fix. You can either apply the fixer to the model before you apply the pastels, or after, or even mix them together. Look at this video from Humbrol for a good rundown on technique.

I've used water and acrylic thinner as a "fixative," but the adhesion was poor (although better than nothing).

I have used both pastels and the expensive weathering pigments/powders from AK and Vallejo. I cannot tell the difference. I use the cheap chalk pastels, not the high-end artist type. Craft stores sell a pack of 12 earth tones which cost less than $15 US. I grind them with sandpaper, or if I really need a fine powder, I'll use a mortar and pestle.

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by Wood on Thursday, November 3, 2016 4:32 PM
I use Vallejo's Medium Thinner. I mix in their light yellow ochre pigment and apply it like a wash. While it's still wet I brush on natural umber pigment. When it's all dry I use a stiff brush to remove some of the pigments from the track contact points and dry brush a steel color over the parts that contact the ground. All this results in a dried mud effect. I have the Vallejo Mud and Sand pigment set. It only cost about $7.50 for a set of four 30ml jars. The white glue and water mix mentioned above works fine, but since I discovered my little method I like it better. If you're trying to save money though, the white glue/water and pastel chalks should work OK.
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