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next up, maybe - Sd.Kfz.7 8t Flatbed w/2cm Flakvierling 38

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  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
next up, maybe - Sd.Kfz.7 8t Flatbed w/2cm Flakvierling 38
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Sunday, December 4, 2016 12:14 PM

first of all, this is my 1st armor build - is there a shortcut name for this item?  Smile  anyhow, i may be oversteping my limits here, but a couple of questions - anyone who has done this one before???  or others.....

this kit seems a little complex.  there seem to be a lot of parts in the directions shaded blue - not needed.  i know different people, different techniques - but, should i remove them before i prime?  best/easiest to prime on the sprue?

also, there does not seem to be a lot of detail as far as color for painting.  there are a lot of parts that i think would need to be painted, but are not pointed out in the directions - chasis, seat color and much more...  where should i get those colors from?  also, the springs are shaded dark, but i see no color listed?  i would like to add a little more correct deatail but for instance the engine is listed as being only 1 color???

any help much appreciated

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOqPrlvRxDW4yLeM-iH-LZrDXknVAKBnDTC-po0pALwpP3SZXOTGuMRukaNBSmvig?key=X2NCSktlLWpVdHYxMlJYaEEtLWpaSjdMSmVERVZR

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, December 4, 2016 3:34 PM

You have not listed the brand or scale, but given your description of the amount of extra parts, i am guessing Dragon. This is normal for their kits. First thing i do with a Dragon kit is remove all those un-needed bit, it save stime searching for parts.

I buld as much of the vehcile that going to be the base colour before priming and painting. Painting on the sprue can cause problems when gluing and if you have to use filler, something i find very rare with armour, then you will just have to paint over it.

As for the name, Sd.Kfz. 7 Flakvierling 38 should do.

Strange that Dragon has not listed interiour colours. I am guessing its an open cab, so the main colour would be the same as the outside with black leather seats. As for the underside colour, its rather tricky. period pics are not very clear and often museum pieces can't be completly trusted. I tend to go with the base colur and then dry brush with bare metal colours and dirty it up a bit.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Sunday, December 4, 2016 4:49 PM

Bish

You have not listed the brand or scale, but given your description of the amount of extra parts, i am guessing Dragon. This is normal for their kits. First thing i do with a Dragon kit is remove all those un-needed bit, it save stime searching for parts.

I buld as much of the vehcile that going to be the base colour before priming and painting. Painting on the sprue can cause problems when gluing and if you have to use filler, something i find very rare with armour, then you will just have to paint over it.

As for the name, Sd.Kfz. 7 Flakvierling 38 should do.

Strange that Dragon has not listed interiour colours. I am guessing its an open cab, so the main colour would be the same as the outside with black leather seats. As for the underside colour, its rather tricky. period pics are not very clear and often museum pieces can't be completly trusted. I tend to go with the base colur and then dry brush with bare metal colours and dirty it up a bit.

 

tks Bish. Sorry, I thought maker and scale were shown in pics. I should have listed anyway for ease. 1/35 scale and Dragon, cyber-hobby.com. I'lL look again but basically I see the color of the engine and some black parts and the exterior camo pattern if I remember correctly. They also have some parts shaded darker but no color referenced that I see. I'll ck again though. Lots of guessing on the colors. i think I'll take your advise to remove parts and assembly basic before priming. I think the directions lists about 7 paints total. And I don't understand why the springs are shaded darker and if they are to be black(again a guess), why would you paint them 1st them affix them to a frame that i guess is to be camo and painted later?  

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by Ixion on Sunday, December 4, 2016 8:29 PM

I was going to post some photos of the Sinsheim vehicle, but on closer inspection, it has some issues...Ick!

 

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Wednesday, December 7, 2016 9:28 PM

So this is confounding - the springs are shaded in the directions but I see no color. I'm guessing black. already in step 2 I don't see how you suppose to get the exhaust primed and painted after assembly. Also, if I asssemble some parts 1st then try to prime and paint, how do you get to all the undersides and inside nooks and crannies?  Tks for the help!

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Thursday, December 8, 2016 10:15 PM

Usually the unmarked parts are the base color of the model or larger assembly. The shaded parts in your instructions are in fact part "not used" for that particular kit. If you check your instruction sheet there should be a chart giving color callouts, they are light blue and grey and usually have a number such as 17/ 39. This depicts a particular paint manufacturer code for that color which should be printed right after the number. Now look at the instructions and you will see "flags" calling out that number code. Cross reference that flag with the chart and bada bing, It is cumbersome but you will get to learn the common colors and it will get easier.

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Thursday, December 8, 2016 10:23 PM

Sorry my post really wasn't as helpful as I thought. Don't worry about the shaded parts in yhe assembly, the designers have assumed the part has been painted before assembly, also sometimes the shaded area indicates the entire assembly done before that particular step. Good luck and keep asking.

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Monday, January 2, 2017 4:41 PM

so ive been working on this a little bit and was wondering - can anyone give me some tips as to the best way to paint the wheel edges?  ive done these two with a brush and im not too crazy about it but cant figure the best way to isolate the edges to spray maybe???  tks for any advice - stumped

https://goo.gl/photos/xn76No2M37272rkD6

last pic in folder

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Monday, January 2, 2017 7:00 PM

If you're talking raised edges, I would drybrush.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Tuesday, January 3, 2017 6:08 AM
Do you have an airbrush? If so, get an artist's circle template. Spray the entire wheel black/rubber colored (German rubber had a brownish hue) and then place the circle template over the wheel, exposing only the inner hub. Spray on the dark yellow, masking off the rubber portion. Or if spraying isn't something you have the ability to do, cut masking tape discs using the circle template. Place them over your dark yellow painted wheel and then apply the black/rubber paint -- giving a crisp edge.

Roy Chow 

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http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Tuesday, January 3, 2017 6:34 AM

T26E4
Do you have an airbrush? If so, get an artist's circle template. Spray the entire wheel black/rubber colored (German rubber had a brownish hue) and then place the circle template over the wheel, exposing only the inner hub. Spray on the dark yellow, masking off the rubber portion. Or if spraying isn't something you have the ability to do, cut masking tape discs using the circle template. Place them over your dark yellow painted wheel and then apply the black/rubber paint -- giving a crisp edge.
 

roy - Tks. Noticed my picture did not post in the question. Not sure why I can see if I'm logged in to both google and FS but not when I'm just looking at FS!!?!  Anyhow, try the link and see what I did so far. I did the opposite so far of what you recommended - sprayed the wheels all yellow so fa and now have to spray the edges. Just wanted to check and see if I was missing anything here - thought it would be easier to cover just the inside to spray black but can't figure out how to get the little discs I cut to stay in place in the middle of the wheel.  The couple I hand painted don't look as nice as the spraying. 

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Wednesday, January 4, 2017 3:02 PM

so before i cut a bunch of circles, then try to afix them to spray the black edges, I tried a chisel tipped acrylic black pen.  in the picture with 9 wheels - the top left 3 are brushed.  i brushed the 4th then finished with the pen and the last 5 are all penned.  the more i do with the pen, definately getting better.  we'll see.  comments?  im guessing i'll be able to pen them bc by the end with the rest of the camo, washes, etc.  theyll look okay - i hope...  base paint is enamel.

 

https://goo.gl/photos/xn76No2M37272rkD6

 

PS  they're taking about 2 minutes a piece to do

 

 

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, January 5, 2017 7:38 AM

Personally I find spraying the wheels dark grey and then using the circle template like Roy to be easier. But if you want to go with wheels first and then tires you can use some low-tack tape (look for the blue or yellow painter's tape at the hardware store), trace the circle on it and then cut them out and apply. 

I've used the pens myself and had good luck with them but I've heard other people complain about them bleeding and fading over time. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Tuesday, February 7, 2017 9:07 PM
Looking for a little input - I'm into the model now, and working on the guns. For the driver side 2 guns(when facing forward), they fit fine and line up. For the 2 on the passenger side, they have to be rotated 180 degrees for them to fit which means everything is going to be upside down. Is this normal? It's like I have 4 left hand canons and no right side ones??? What am I missing?

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Thursday, February 9, 2017 9:13 AM
Not sure if I should have started a new thread re: the guns. Still trying to find out if it's normal in kits to have one side with upside down guns???? See post above... model instructions and box have no passenger side views to look at. Tks.

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, February 9, 2017 12:44 PM

That is weird. I wish I could help, but I'm not expert at all. You can't find any photos on the internet or any one else who has built the kit? I've been stuck on stuff before and found someone else's record of building the same thing on the internet who encountered the same problem.  

 

Only thing I know for sure is if you do put her together the wrong way you'll then end up with a legion of experts pointing out your mistake. Don't ask me how I know...  Bang Head

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by Ixion on Thursday, February 9, 2017 2:02 PM

Yes, the guns are inverted on the right side vs the left.

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Thursday, February 9, 2017 3:24 PM
thanks to all for the help! upon further investigation and the help too from someone more familiar with the kits and a high powered magnifying glass, the guns are indeed inverted. i guess that was easier that having to build guns that feed from opposite sides. tks again!

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

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