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Realistic welds

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by mark956 on Saturday, March 27, 2004 3:30 PM
Thanks Lawrence, I have that issue.
mark956
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 24, 2004 9:30 PM
Hey Lawrence;
Any of these qualify for 'reader tip of the month'?Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 24, 2004 6:01 PM
For some more techniques, check out "Creating realistic weld seams" by Jeremy Pearse in the July 2002 FSM (p. 60).
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by mark956 on Wednesday, March 24, 2004 5:37 PM
Thanks for the great information Guys.
Very nice job ausf. Thanks for posting the pictures.
mark956
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Wednesday, March 24, 2004 10:22 AM
The method the guy who wrote the new Ampersand Tiger book used is to outline the weld seam with masking tape, put putty (he used red) in between the tape edges, then sculpt it with and exacto knife as the putty set up.

Good luck and show us the results.

Nice work, ausf. I really like the job on that strengthing plate.
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 24, 2004 9:50 AM
Here's pics of the methods I mentioned. these are extreme closeups of 1/35 Tiger.
The first is of the rough weld on the lower plate, with my basecoat sprayed:

The second is the 'indentation' weld on the turret. The roughened outer steel is to represent the torch cutting marks during construction. This weld hasn't been cleaned up yet and also shows the bit used:

I forgot to mention...a flex shaft on the dremel makes this a lot easier and also slows the bit down even more.
Hope this helps.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 24, 2004 7:05 AM
Great ideas! I am going to try both, too.

Matt
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 24, 2004 6:50 AM
I tried two methods on my current build (I will post real pictures soon Wink [;)]) One was the buildup method stated by shermanfreak, the other was, and you have to be very careful, using a 'burring' bit in Dremel on the lowest speed possible, let it kinda bounce on the surface while running along he seam. Both were very effective, the buildup produces a raised weld like you would get when attaching parts and the dremel produces a more flush(slightly indented) surface like when plates are joined. I also found some extra cement on small parts can be manipulated with an exacto after it sets up.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 23, 2004 11:20 PM
Good question. Thanks sherm.
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Tuesday, March 23, 2004 10:22 PM
One of the most common methods is to soak styrene rod in liquid glue, lay it where you want it and then texture it with an exacto blade. The glue will soften it and make it easier to texture.
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Realistic welds
Posted by mark956 on Tuesday, March 23, 2004 10:14 PM
Hello, I need some tips or links to produce welds on my Sherman Calliope.
Thanks for any help.
mark956
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