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Help on when to attach top and hull

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  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Monday, October 9, 2017 9:42 AM

Mike

Here you can get an idea how to assemble the link tracks. I like to leave them off unglued from the road wheels to make paint and weathering easier but it gives you an idea how to approach it. He also talks about skipping around the build order to make painting easier.

This Takom KT looks awesome and makes an impressive display left open as in the video.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nogimZGaSKM

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December 2010
  • From: Salem, Oregon
Posted by 1943Mike on Sunday, October 8, 2017 6:23 PM

Thanks Tojo72 and PJ.

I'll be looking for the tutorials when I get to those kits.

Tojo72, I appreciate your telling me how you put them together.

Back to my Patton.

Mike

"Le temps est un grand maître, mais malheureusement, il tue tous ses élèves."

Hector Berlioz

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Sunday, October 8, 2017 5:52 PM

1943Mike

Rob, thanks. (and by the way Colonel, thanks for your service).

Since I already have the Dragon sd.Kfz.171 Panther G Late Production in my stash I'll pay close attention to the order of the build when I get around to it. Looks like that kit will test my patience assembling those tracks.

 

 

I

 

Jagdpanther and Panther usually have enough clearance to work with tracks even hull glued together.There are some good tutorials here on MT track assmbly out there.I glue together the whole side with Tamiya Extra Thin,wait 25 minutes,then flex the whole track run around the roadwheels and sprockets,adjust the sag,let it dry over night,then take it off for painting.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, October 8, 2017 5:17 PM

There are several tuts on assembling the link track and it's really not that hard. The best way is using Testors liquid cement to soften up the tracks do they can be draped over the running gear. You can do each side broken into two or three sections, leaving the last long in the group unglued in order to get the desired droop. Once dry,  remove the sections forpainting and weathering then reassemble and add glue to the two or three unglued points. 

Hope this helps Mike.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December 2010
  • From: Salem, Oregon
Posted by 1943Mike on Sunday, October 8, 2017 4:57 PM

Rob, thanks. (and by the way Colonel, thanks for your service).

Since I already have the Dragon sd.Kfz.171 Panther G Late Production in my stash I'll pay close attention to the order of the build when I get around to it. Looks like that kit will test my patience assembling those tracks.

 

Mike

"Le temps est un grand maître, mais malheureusement, il tue tous ses élèves."

Hector Berlioz

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Sunday, October 8, 2017 1:50 PM
I recognized the kit, which is why you got the advice I provided. A tank like an Abrams or a kit that uses individual track links would have gotten a different answer. So it almost always depends on the type of tank kit.
  • Member since
    December 2010
  • From: Salem, Oregon
Posted by 1943Mike on Sunday, October 8, 2017 1:26 PM

Thanks Rob, Bish, Tojo72, and PJ!

I will check, as much as possible, clearances of any parts to be added under the fenders. If it seems to me that I can attach the wheels and track without too much of a problem I'll most likely glue the two parts together sooner rather than later.

I should probably have mentioned that the kit is Tamiya's 1/35 M48A3 Patton.

Thanks again.

Mike

"Le temps est un grand maître, mais malheureusement, il tue tous ses élèves."

Hector Berlioz

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, October 8, 2017 12:46 PM

As stated, depends on the kit. Since yours was originally motorized they left that part for last. You need to look ahead and check that parts that come later in the assembly have the clearance and will fit without any issues. 

I sometimes don't follow the order in the instructions and skip around to make things like painting easier.

The open sections on the hull bottom are easily covered with plastic card. I like to coat the bottom with dirt pigment as part of the weathering process.  

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Sunday, October 8, 2017 12:32 PM
I glue mine together early on,the less small parts attached to the hull,the less to knock off during that joining process,sometimes though you have to be aware of track fender clearance,like can you fit the tracks on the road wheels and under the fenders.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, October 8, 2017 12:27 PM

As Rob says, depends on the vehicle. For most i wil attach it sooner that the instructions say. I usually try and do this before adding any small parts to the upper hull which might get damaged if handeled after.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Sunday, October 8, 2017 12:22 PM

It often depends on the type of tank you are building. On this type, you can build it, leaving the road wheels and tracks off. Once it is completed, you can then add the road wheels, sprocket and tracks afterwards.

  • Member since
    December 2010
  • From: Salem, Oregon
Help on when to attach top and hull
Posted by 1943Mike on Sunday, October 8, 2017 11:52 AM

This is my first armor build (no WIP - I'd be too embarrassed Embarrassed) and I'm wondering if there's any reason why I can't glue the top and hull together sooner than near the end of construction as Tamiya shows in their instructions.

As you can see from the picture of my taped together sections, I'm working on filling in the areas where the molds allowed for the motor, batteries, etc. that are no longer part of the kit. I'm sure I'll knock out some of the areas I've taken considerable time trying to plug up if I don't get the two pieces together soon.

Please excuse what must seem like a very stupid question but I really would appreciate the input from you guys.

 

Mike

"Le temps est un grand maître, mais malheureusement, il tue tous ses élèves."

Hector Berlioz

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