Oh cool! Possibly my favorite tank and I've heard good stuff about this kit. Looking forward to seeing how you build her. 

Good to see you doing some armour Nick, look forwardto seeing what you do with this one.

I cracked open my copy of this kit last night and I've been pretty impressed with Tamiya's engineering. Looking forward to following your progress on this one!

I'm also in the middle of this kit. Parts fit is typical Tamiya - very good. Their detail work is getting better, probably due to pressure from the other manufacturers, but they could still do better. I don't consider myself a rivet counter, but there are things Tamiya doesn't yet do that really surprise me. 

1. Still has molded hatch handles. No good reason for that.

2. They should upgrade their molding of the .50 cal. Gun. I was spoiled by the one on the Bronco M24.

3. The kit includes the tow cable ends, but no simulated cable.

4. Even the box art shows the holes in the flanges for the mud guards/shields but there aren't any holes in the tiny molded flanges on the fenders.

5. They finally included periscopes for the driver and BOG hatches, but the hatches have the periscope covers molded in the closed position, and if you install the periscopes inside the hatches they are straight up and down as if they are open. The 'scope for the commander's hatch is wrong size compared to the cover molded on the outside.

I'm trying to work around most of these issues with varying degrees of success with the exception of the .50 cal. Don't know what to do there except surrender to the existing part.

Gamera its alot more detail to this kit it should be a lot of fun. I better watch fury now. lol

Bish I like to build armor its been too long but I like the change

knighttemplar me to ordered some fruil tracks for this one too

M1grandfan Thanks for that information

Your T-62 was really well done!  Looking forward to seeing what you do with this kit.  I have read only positive reviews.

yea I drove in to these fruil tracks man the wire is 3mm on each side then I have to glue the center alignment pins (m4a3-hvss) tracks  I ordered the easy eight track kit I hope its better but .... I will find that out. more to follow

M1GarandFan

I'm also in the middle of this kit. Parts fit is typical Tamiya - very good. Their detail work is getting better, probably due to pressure from the other manufacturers, but they could still do better. I don't consider myself a rivet counter, but there are things Tamiya doesn't yet do that really surprise me. 

1. Still has molded hatch handles. No good reason for that.

2. They should upgrade their molding of the .50 cal. Gun. I was spoiled by the one on the Bronco M24.

3. The kit includes the tow cable ends, but no simulated cable.

4. Even the box art shows the holes in the flanges for the mud guards/shields but there aren't any holes in the tiny molded flanges on the fenders.

5. They finally included periscopes for the driver and BOG hatches, but the hatches have the periscope covers molded in the closed position, and if you install the periscopes inside the hatches they are straight up and down as if they are open. The 'scope for the commander's hatch is wrong size compared to the cover molded on the outside.

I'm trying to work around most of these issues with varying degrees of success with the exception of the .50 cal. Don't know what to do there except surrender to the existing part.

 

I got the Tasca/Asuka M4A3E8, very nice kit, Tamiya reboxed it for the blink of an eye. But the nww Tamiya kit is on sale at hobby Lobby for $49.99. If you use the 40% off coupon, the price is quite reasonable for such a nice kit.

Rob, I got my kit from Scalehobbyist in New Hampshire for $45.74 including  shipping here to Colorado. They seem to have a lot of kits in stock (although the DML kits seem to be backordered a lot). I need to look into the Tasca/Asuka stuff a little more. My understanding is that they do a good job with ma deuce. My local (?) Hobby Lobby is 60 miles away and their selection is very limited to some Tamiya german armor.

There is an M4A3E8 at the Abrams Gate at West Point, N.Y. that we saw this summer when we went by.

Glenn,

WOW, those are amazing pictures you've posted. Did you take most or all of them? The pics are so clear and sharp. Much better than a lot that I've seen. They look like they were taken last month.

Glenn,

Where were you and when? My brother was in Bearcat about 20 miles NE of Saigon in '67/'68.

Crown r n7,

I have the same kit in my stash so I'll be tagging along.

magiccityfan thank you itwas the fastest build yet 30 days for me.well that old kit didnt have to much detail it was one of those left over motorized kits still fun

Rob good to know about HL 40% coupon my visits to HL are drive bys they do have more car kits than anything thats good for me because I build cars. but this tank was the only one there some planes.

GlennH those pics are so real amazing ,

maybe on a drive by get some of those tank pics.

1943Mike no problem I look forward for comments or to be of help.

got in my NEW fruil tracks yesterday. ATL-89 its for the easy eight kit and that it is much easier than the ATL-138 tracks Ill find a use for them. 

My wife gets the HL app and has a picture of the 40% off coupon on her phone. She can use it once a day. I'm old school and cut the coupon out of my Sunday paper. My HL carries a good number of Bandai and Revell Star Wars kits, some aircraft and armor, and the vast majority of the aisle is dedicated to car and truck kits.

I've actually been tempted to buy an AMT 2017 Camaro kit with the coupon.
https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Cars-Trucks-Motorcycles/2017-Chevrolet-Camaro-Fifty-Model-Kit/p/80827307

Rob it’s nice to throw in a car in there every now and then 

Nick: Those tracks look great! 

thank you Gamera this fruil tracks ATL-89 are much easier

I just went up to HL, with the coupon printed, and snagged the Sherman, along with some "supplies". Good deal. They also had the Gamma Goat, same price, but I know I need another Sherman.....  I also have the Friuls in the stash. Hmmm....

finished with one side of the tracks beter get started on this tank. I like coupon days at HL!!

thank god for tamiya extra thin cement!!! what a glue bomb that would be lol. finished with 80 links on one track but who's counting so far I like this kit.

fi

M1GarandFan

Glenn,

WOW, those are amazing pictures you've posted. Did you take most or all of them? The pics are so clear and sharp. Much better than a lot that I've seen. They look like they were taken last month.

 

They are scans from slides I took.

1943Mike

Glenn,

Where were you and when? My brother was in Bearcat about 20 miles NE of Saigon in '67/'68.

Crown r n7,

I have the same kit in my stash so I'll be tagging along.

 

69/70 N. of Saigon as well with First Inf and later up north with 101st

Those tracks are looking great! 

Gamera.  thank you have you or any one have used burnishing liquid on metal tracks before?

Sorry, I haven't. I only used my first set of metal tracks recently. I'm going to try using AK Interactive track primer, track wash, and then a little sanding to remove the paint and show the metal on the raised details. I'm crossing my fingers it works. 

I did do a search using 'Finescale' and 'Friuls' and got a couple of articles on using it. Most were a little old though and some of the people don't post here anymore. It's worth a try though.

yes me too Im hooked on those tracks. Im over buget on supplies this month maybe next month I'll order some of that burnishing stuff

crown r n7

... have you or any one have used burnishing liquid on metal tracks before?

 

I spent a number of years working for a pewter casting outfit, so I got pretty used to working with BlackenIt and a few other burnishing fluids. The best advice that I can offer is to make absolutely certain that the metal is clean prior to using the fluid. Talcum powder is a common mold release for white metals - it acts as a microscopic spacer to allow air to escape the cavity, but the heat of the metal is seldom sufficient to fully vaporize all of the talc. So, it collects on the surface of the parts, particularly in the nooks and crannies around details. This, in turn, causes little white spots on the metal when it is treated with the burnishing fluid because the powder is acting as a mask.

Extra amounts of super glue also result in bare metal, as does some forms of silicone mold release. So, take the extra time to tidy up glue marks and scrub the metal clean with an old toothbrush and warm, soapy water. In commercial casting, a soak in diluted muriatic acid truly helps for a deep clean and also microscopically etches the surface of the metal for deeper color and adhesion, but this is a step most hobbyists skip because very few people are into the chemistry of the process.

Once clean, immerse the metal and keep an eye on things. Bubbles of air trapped by surface tension around details or between links result in bare metal, just like surface contaminants. Use an old brush to pop them. The longer you leave the piece in the fluid, the darker it becomes; but, be careful because there is a point where the colors will hit that point of diminishing returns. With cheaper fluids, it sometimes means a chalky finish that can be difficult to remove.

Rinse the track in clean water after you pull the parts. The color should be nice and even, with no spotting. From there, finish as you see fit. 

KT thanks for that information .I was going to try that stuff after prep work to the links and before assembly of the tracks good to know

Thanks from me as well KT, I'd heard about the stuff but thanks for filling us in on the details for all the prep work.