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Question for you OD fans

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  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Thursday, April 1, 2004 5:31 AM
Robert, you never cease to amaze me.

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 7:34 PM
Bill -
QUOTE: I've started on the tracks and that explains a lot. Is the problem you're talking about on the winter extension pieces?


Yes ..... those are the culprits.

QUOTE: If so, would it be better to just build up the tracks using just the regular ends?


Yes again ... the alignment holes are much better.

QUOTE: Also, did you come up with a sure fire way to keep all those stupid ends aligned properly? No matter how carefully I try, mine keep pointing every which way!


I always work them in groups of 2 links / 2 end connectors at a time. Build a whole pile of pairs. Always checking to make sure they are flat. I use my desk top and press down right after gluing with a steel straight edge to ensure they are flat.
After building pairs, I then move on to making quads by joining the pairs together. Same procedure as above but now I really start to watch the alignment. I use my straightedge for that too before the glue sets.
Now I measure the distance for a full run of tracks. For example, the distance between the front road wheel and the rear road wheel, center to center. Using the quads, I will build this length with one or two singles that will be needed. Always check allignment and make sure they are flat.
Move on to the other lengths.
Use the drive sprocket and idler to determine your curved pieces.
Piece together the balance.

Most people use a slow curing glue for this, I'm a little demented, I use CA.

Monktrade -
QUOTE: I was planning on doing the old home-made jig and tape method on the tracks. Are they bad enough that even with them fixed in said "rig" during construction they will curve?


The jig might work, I've never used one myself so can't really say. What I did was snip off the allignment pins every so often to make the track go straight.


Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 6:56 PM
I was planning on doing the old home-made jig and tape method on the tracks. Are they bad enough that even with them fixed in said "rig" during construction they will curve?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 5:14 PM
So the grousers don't work in kit form either?Shock [:O]
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 5:09 PM
QUOTE: Great info, sir,


Careful with that, Monktrade. We have a hard enough time keeping Robert in line and not getting a swollen head!!

Seriously, Robert, I've started on the tracks and that explains a lot. Is the problem you're talking about on the winter extension pieces? If so, would it be better to just build up the tracks using just the regular ends? Also, did you come up with a sure fire way to keep all those stupid ends aligned properly? No matter how carefully I try, mine keep pointing every which way!

Thanks, as always!
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 3:33 PM
Any time Monktrade. Watch out for the tracks with this kit, the alignment pinholes on the extenders are a hair off the standard end connectors pinholes and will cause the tracks to curve a bit if you're not careful.
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 2:39 PM
Ask and ye shall receive Cool [8D]
Great info, sir, thank you very much! With answers that quick and helpful now you're in for it. Wink [;)] I'll probably be summoning your Sherman brain a couple more times. Smile [:)]

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 2:36 PM
Did I lie?
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 2:34 PM
Ok first off, yes it is based on the M4A4 which had the Chrysler multibank engine in it and the hull extended to accomodate it. It was actually 5 Chrysler truck engines sharing a common transmission.

All were welded hulls.

All had the three piece bolted transmission covers. Each section was cast so texture wouldn't be out of line.

Yes, those are fenders over the front of the tracks and they took a terrible beating in combat.

The turret bustle extension is not a counterweight, it's well armoured and it's where the Brits put their radio equipment. They normally stored them at the back of the turret but with the 17 pounder the recoil was larger so they extended the turret.

The extra box on the back of the bustle was made of soft metal and can be beaten up. Thin guage metal would work just fine.

Have fun !!!
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 2:19 PM
I'm in the same boat, Shermanwise. As soon as Shermanfreak see's this post, all of your questions will be duely and accurately answered.
My only advice is...add a few drops of Dunkelgelb to the OD, just to...you know, spruce it up!Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Question for you OD fans
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 2:08 PM
I'm a relative neophyte to the Sherman family. I have very few resources, and my research has been mostly on the web. I'm currently building Dragon's new Firefly Vc. Basically, it comes down to the fact that I'm clueless Smile [:)]

Now, my understanding is that the Vc was an M4A4 hull. From what I gather, this means that it was produced from a specific manufacturer, and among other classifications was a gasoline engine, and was largely a welded hull? Was the front plate a cast piece, and was each piece of the 3 piece bow cast and then bolted? As such should those pieces in particular have a casting texture?

Next I was wondering if anyone knew whether over the tracks on the front sprockets the triangular pieces that appear to be held on with 3 rivets were detachable mud guards? As such, would it be appropriate to replace the kit parts with some scratch built metal fenders and rivets, in order to show bending and wear?

Lastly, I had a question about the turret bustle. I would assume the largest portion of the turret bustle was a counterweight for the large 17lber. However, there appears to be a stowage box strapped to the back of this counterweight. If it is a stowage box that appears to be strapped and bolted on, any idea how thick and durable it would be? Would thin guage metal be a better representation in scale?

Thanks for the help, I sure do appreciate all the knowledge on this forum, as I mostly lurk and soak it all in Big Smile [:D]
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