snapdragonxxx

I found that working with these transfers were actually easier than decals especially over the zimmeritt texture.

I placed the transfer and rubbed it on, then after removing the paper used a cotton bud to push the transfer into the textured surface.

The transfer is done with flexible ink and so can go quickly and easily around corners, over zimmeritt texture etc without all the faff that normal decals cause with gloss coats, fixing solutions, softening solutions, protective clear coats, Matt clear coats etc.

I really do like painting masks and dry transfers which do look like they have been painted on and are much easier to do. On my recent builds I have only used decals when I had no other option, and that's mainly for aircraft stencils.

If you have been following my Ki-45 Nick build you can see that Inam using my own hand cut masks for the upper camo surface and I will be using both hand cut and Maketar masks together (well, sort of) a bit later in the build.

 

I found that working with these transfers were actually easier than decals especially over the zimmeritt texture.

I placed the transfer and rubbed it on, then after removing the paper used a cotton bud to push the transfer into the textured surface.

The transfer is done with flexible ink and so can go quickly and easily around corners, over zimmeritt texture etc without all the faff that normal decals cause with gloss coats, fixing solutions, softening solutions, protective clear coats, Matt clear coats etc.

I really do like painting masks and dry transfers which do look like they have been painted on and are much easier to do. On my recent builds I have only used decals when I had no other option, and that's mainly for aircraft stencils.

If you have been following my Ki-45 Nick build you can see that Inam using my own hand cut masks for the upper camo surface and I will be using both hand cut and Maketar masks together (well, sort of) a bit later in the build.

Stik, I copy your last. Only selective application for dry transfer type decals... Applying decals over contoured surfaces has always raised my blood pressure.

Dry transfers have been around for decades. They can be a bit tricky to use at times. Especially over surfaces that have multiple contours. They have their pluses and minuses. 

snapdragonxxx

sarge, have you thought about Archer dry transfers. you rub them on and they look like they have been painted

https://www.archertransfers.com/AR35021W.html

https://www.archertransfers.com/AR35065W.html

 

I used them on my Panther A build. Even close up they look painted on. No need for gloss coats or anything. and they stick like dog poop to a blanket!

 

Harold

sarge, have you thought about Archer dry transfers. you rub them on and they look like they have been painted

https://www.archertransfers.com/AR35021W.html

https://www.archertransfers.com/AR35065W.html

I used them on my Panther A build. Even close up they look painted on. No need for gloss coats or anything. and they stick like dog poop to a blanket!

German Armour

 

 

snapdragonxxx

Of course you do. Copy the badge from Sarge's post and resize it to your needs and add it to your signature!

 

 

 

 

How would I do a slide show like some of the other members have done?

Thanks.

 

Sorry... Haven't got a clue! If you find out then tell me! 

Sergeant

Stik, on your recent 222 model did you do only the area in gloss where the decals were located, or the entire vehicle? I've been concerned that if I did only a small area where the decal is located the section would standout later when I applied the flat clear coat.

Harold

 

I gloss coated the whole vehicle exterior. But applied more heavily in areas where the decals were going compared to the rest of the exterior. In the past, I have tried glossing only the spots where the decals would be applied, but that gave an uneven look in the end. Just like your concern, it will stand out if done that way.

Harold

Yes, that is true. Using gloss or even semi gloss paints can eliminate the need for a gloss coat prior to decals. The main obstacle to that is so few companies produce military colors in gloss. Only Xtracolor from england does that to my knowledge. Gunze and Model Master make some of their colors in a semi gloss finish. And Humbrol makes a few in satin finish. But your really pushing it with satin finish depending upon the decals and how much clear carrier there is that can “silver”.

James, or anyone of our members following this group-build. I have read several articles regarding the application of decals that recommend a smooth gloss surface to get the best results with the help of products like Micro Set and Micro Sol setting solutions.

My Tamiya Jeep model called for flat finish paint on surfaces were decals will eventually be located. This is similar to other military models I’ve done recently. So after I finish painting the model with flat colors I've been using a gloss clear coat to create a smooth surface to apply decals. Then with decals in place and throughly dry I apply a flat clear coat to seal the decals and bring back the flat finish called for on the model.

This seems like an extra step that could be avoided if I used gloss finish paint instead of flat finish in the beginning. Then apply the decals and a seal them with a flat clear coat. What do you think?

Harold

snapdragonxxx

Of course you do. Copy the badge from Sarge's post and resize it to your needs and add it to your signature!

 

How would I do a slide show like some of the other members have done?

Thanks.

Of course you do. Copy the badge from Sarge's post and resize it to your needs and add it to your signature!

Thank you Bob.

Stik-awesome as usual-great build

That's great, stikpusher. You have pulled out a rabbit out of the hat with practically no time to prepare or plan anything and your result is mindblowing!

I will give notice from 1November this year with a list of rules etc and this will give chance for community members to declare themselves and a kit etc and to prepare for those 12 days of challenge.

I do hope that members who have been following our adventure will also join in.

James

Well done Stik, awesome as ever!

Thank you gentlemen! 

Harold, for a bit there, I was afraid that I had reached too far when I decided to add the interior and such. Plus a days worth session of diversion with figures. 

Snapp, I’m in for the next one at the end of this year. I’ll just stay more focused, and plan it better... this was all spur of the moment stuff. That can be dangerous! 

Outstanding work there and a well deserved badge.

I do think that this challenge could well turn out to be very popular at this time of year.

Stik, I am amazed... You turned your model into a work of art. Outstanding! And to think you did it in 11-days.

Harold

anyways, here are my photos from the evening of Saturday, Jan 5

And I’m back. After being locked out of the forum for the past several days. I did complete mine on the 5th, and posted it on forums without such technical stupidities as they have been having far too frequently here....

here is a link to the time stamped page for proof of completion.

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3720&start=60

ill get some photos up in a bit

As a last minute informal and fun group build, I feel that this trial has been a success and I would like to thank those who jumped in at the last minute with both feet and no parachute for stepping up to the plate and the challenge and at risk of divorce, sleeping with the dog/cat/hamster/goldfish, silent dinners and constant nagging, survived and completed the 12 day challenge and actually had fun along the way!

I do think that everyone who joined in learned something along the 12 day journey as did those watching. It is the posting of the build and the comments that really provide the impetus in this challenge, not only from the builders but those following too.

For the next 12 day challenge I propose 3 badges

12 Day Challenge Badge 2019/2020

Same badge with FAILED across it in military stencil font (after all... This is a bit of Christmas/New Year fun) for those who join in and fail the deadline!

Challenge Badge with SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) honours!

I would like to  propose Harold (Sergeant) as official badge designer for the challenge build.

After all, if we can't laugh at ourselves, our hobby and what we get up to then what is the point. After all, this GB is a time limited bit of fun where mostly anything goes and the badges should reflect this.

Display your badge with pride, guys!

Snapdragonxxx,

Thanks for hosting the informal GB!

Even though I didn't finish, your great GB idea inspired me to start a kit and want to finish it!  I'll post pics when I cross the finish line - hopefully in less than 20 days and not in 20 years!

Hope you guys don't mind but I've been following ya'll along. Great work guys all around!!! I couldn't even get a kit barely assembled in twelve days much less painted, decaled, etc! 

Outstanding work guys. Put up your badges and be rightly proud of them!

Well, here's my finished entry (not quight finished) (crossover) 

It's finished for this entry but i'll kinda finish it up, weather it a little for SSGB.

bobbaily, you did a fantastic job on the finish of your T34/76 and 251/1.