Thanks RBear.  It is quite huge.  It dwarfs an Abrams and does look impressive on the shelf.

Very well done! I'm sitting here thinking about the actual size of the model, must be impressive as heck in the case (or shelf...).

She turned out great!!! Again it's always nice to see something a little different like this.

I have finally finished it.

Firstly, I fixed the bridge where the angled section meets the flat section.  It was pointed out that the 70-ton bridge has a fixed pin at the top and a bolted plate at the bottom.  The 60-ton bridge in the kit has removable pins at both locations.  

I cut off the removable pins and modified both locations to match the above pic.

Now on to the completed build.  I weathered it with acrylic paint washes and some drybrushing of a sandy color.  

I added a bit of rust and bare metal to the foot that supports the bridge as well.

With the erector arm deployed.

The weathered bridge.

The whole enchilada...bridge mounted on the carrier.  This is one big model.

That is it, fine'.  I really enjoyed building this conversion and am very satisfied with the way it turned out.  It looks impressive sitting on my shelf as it dwarfs an Abrams.

HeavyArty

 

 

Sergeant

 I have some Archer Fine Transfer decals that I understand can be used to make white water slide decals, but I’ve never tried that process. I like the Archer decal image quality, but there are places on my models that transfer decals just don’t work very well ...

 

 

Yes, you can take a sheet of clear decal film and rub the Archer dry-transfers onto it.  It can then be applied as a water-slide decal.  It works just fine.  Archer actually includes a small sheet of wet-transfer paper in some of their newer sets with instructions on how to do it.

 

Harold

Thank Rob.  I hope to have some updated pics soon.  It is almost done.  I had thought about an AVLM too, but didn't want to spend the extra for either Hobby Fan MICLICs or those out of the Rye Field ABV kit.

Sergeant

 I have some Archer Fine Transfer decals that I understand can be used to make white water slide decals, but I’ve never tried that process. I like the Archer decal image quality, but there are places on my models that transfer decals just don’t work very well ...

Yes, you can take a sheet of clear decal film and rub the Archer dry-transfers onto it.  It can then be applied as a water-slide decal.  It works just fine.  Archer actually includes a small sheet of wet-transfer paper in some of their newer sets with instructions on how to do it.

Hello!

It might be worth it here to draw up your own decal pattern on the computer and then try to find a company to print decals for you - I have done it severeal times now and I'm very happy with the results. Unfortunately I only know such companies in Poland and Germany - maybe with the exception of DRAW! decals (USA or Canada - I'm not sure) - but I don't know if he takes every custom order, but hedefinitely has a machine for printing decals and printing white letters is no problem for him.

Hope it helps, have a nice day

Paweł

HeavyArty

The font varies, depending on the size of the stencil.  I think the smallest is 2 or 3 font.  The "3ID 10E" is about 8 font.   White is a problem.  Unless you have a special printer, you can't do white easily.  Since home printers assume you are using white paper, they just leave white font as a blank area.  You can get white decal paper and print the surrounding area the color of your model to get white lettering, but it is hard to get the color to match perfectly.  For white stenciling, it is best to get AM decals for what you want.

 

The font varies, depending on the size of the stencil.  I think the smallest is 2 or 3 font.  The "3ID 10E" is about 8 font.   White is a problem.  Unless you have a special printer, you can't do white easily.  Since home printers assume you are using white paper, they just leave white font as a blank area.  You can get white decal paper and print the surrounding area the color of your model to get white lettering, but it is hard to get the color to match perfectly.  For white stenciling, it is best to get AM decals for what you want.

HeavyArty

Hi Harold,

Making your own decals isn't hard.  I don't use the Archer paper; I used Testors clear film paper this time' but have used others as well.  It is pretty much the same though.  As I said, I design the decals in PowerPoint.  Then I print a test page on regular paper to confirm size, font, etc.  I then cut a piece of decal paper slightly larger than the area of decals I want to print.  I use scotch clear tape to tape the piece of decal paper over the area I want to print on the test paper;  seal all edges so the print head doesn't catch the decal paper edge.  I then run the piece of paper through my inkjet printer (make sure the paper is compatible for your printer - they make inkjet and laserjet paper).  Once the decal paper is printed, let the ink fully dry for about an hour.  Once dry, spray the decal paper with clear topcoat (gloss or flat) to seal them; let this fully dry for an hour or two.  Once dry, carfully cut the scotch tape to release the decal paper from the larger sheet.  Then cut out each decal and apply like any other water-transfer decal.  Good luck.

 

HeavyArty

Hi Harold,

Making your own decals isn't hard.  I don't use the Archer paper; I used Testors clear film paper this time' but have used others as well.  It is pretty much the same though.  As I said, I design the decals in PowerPoint.  Then I print a test page on regular paper to confirm size, font, etc.  I then cut a piece of decal paper slightly larger than the area of decals I want to print.  I use scotch clear tape to tape the piece of decal paper over the area I want to print on the test paper;  seal all edges so the print head doesn't catch the decal paper edge.  I then run the piece of paper through my inkjet printer (make sure the paper is compatible for your printer - they make inkjet and laserjet paper).  Once the decal paper is printed, let the ink fully dry for about an hour.  Once dry, spray the decal paper with clear topcoat (gloss or flat) to seal them; let this fully dry for an hour or two.  Once dry, carfully cut the scotch tape to release the decal paper from the larger sheet.  Then cut out each decal and apply like any other water-transfer decal.  Good luck.

 

Harold

Hi Harold,

Making your own decals isn't hard.  I don't use the Archer paper; I used Testors clear film paper this time' but have used others as well.  It is pretty much the same though.  As I said, I design the decals in PowerPoint.  Then I print a test page on regular paper to confirm size, font, etc.  I then cut a piece of decal paper slightly larger than the area of decals I want to print.  I use scotch clear tape to tape the piece of decal paper over the area I want to print on the test paper;  seal all edges so the print head doesn't catch the decal paper edge.  I then run the piece of paper through my inkjet printer (make sure the paper is compatible for your printer - they make inkjet and laserjet paper).  Once the decal paper is printed, let the ink fully dry for about an hour.  Once dry, spray the decal paper with clear topcoat (gloss or flat) to seal them; let this fully dry for an hour or two.  Once dry, carfully cut the scotch tape to release the decal paper from the larger sheet.  Then cut out each decal and apply like any other water-transfer decal.  Good luck.

HeavyArty

I was able to find a few other pics of it that showed all the stenciling on the bridge.  I created all the decals in PowerPoint and printed them on my home printer using computer decal paper.

Here is the bridge with all its stenciling.

 

Harold

Thanks guys.  It has been fun so far.  Almost done.

SprueOne, it must be the colors on your screen.  It still looks sand on mine.

Nice! Looking forward to seeing her all together with the weathering worked in there. 

This is a stunner. Your decals look the part. You have done a very nice modification. I'm sure it will even be better after the weathering and figures.

Well Done...

Ben

Nice, very nice. Weird that the lighting in the room where you photographed these latest images make the model look, primer gray.

I finally got some paint on it.  It is depicting vehicle 14 from B Co, 10th Engineer BN, 3ID during the initial invasion of Iraq in March '03.  It is a PrePo stocks draw vehicle as part of 2 BDE.  I used the below picture of a USMC AVLB as a reference.  

I was able to find a few other pics of it that showed all the stenciling on the bridge.  I created all the decals in PowerPoint and printed them on my home printer using computer decal paper.

I painted it using Testors Model Master Modern Desert Sand (FS33722) in the small spray can.  It is a little more yellow than their Sand (FS33531) that I usually use.  It looks pretty good and should represent modern CARC Tan/Sand pretty well once weathered.

Here it is so far.

Here is the bridge with all its stenciling.

Next is the tracks and weathering it a bit.  Then I will add some gear to it and a couple of figures.  

Thanks Gamera.  The bridge being movable does leave lots of options.

Very cool, like the idea of making the bridge workable.

Thanks Pawel.  It has been a fun build so far.

Hello Gino!

That machine is looking good! I like the extra detailing you did a lot. Good luck with your build and with the paint, looking forward to seeing more pictures here. Thanks for sharing and have a nice day!

Paweł

I have been working on some new details that I found after receiving some good images of the bridge sections.

I added the hydraulic lines and connectors to the end of the erector head.

On the bridge sections, there are quite a few missing pieces.  

Both sections should be identical, with the exception of the piston and its parts used to raise them.  The rest of the basic structure is the same though.  First is a missing box brace (1), I rebuilt one and added the second missing "X" brace (2), then there should be a box and hydraulic hoses on each piece (3), not just one side as Dragon modeled.  Lastly, there is a rod at each pointy end of the bridge (4).

I also added the curved hydraulic hoses between the upper and lower bridge sections out of flexible tubing.  Dragon gives you a hard plastic part for these, which will not allow the bridge to move if installed. Lastly, inside the section behind the first brace on the bridge, I extended the hydraulic line back to the second bulkhead with a piece of styrene rod so it wasn't just floating in mid-air.  You can just see the white rod in the below shot. 

Now each bridge section is identical, which will allow either bridge section to be picked up.

I think it is now ready for paint.

I have finished construction.  It is ready for paint, which I will probably not get to until next weekend.  

I finished up the details on it.  First, I redid the water/fuel can holder on the rear of the turret ring.  The kit one was chunky and undersized.  I used a resin water/fuel can holder, some sheet styrene, and a resin footman's loop at the top.  A resin water or fuel can fits into it nicely.

Next, I added the smoke grenade launchers and their storage boxes.

Then I added hydraulic lines for the piston on the bridge and the two on the erector mechanism.

I also added stiffening ribs on top of the erector arm.  I also had to rebuild the hinge on it after a super glue mishap locked it up.  You can also see the smoke launcher and its storage box below as well.

Lastly, I added the tow cables on the left side of the turret ring.

Paint is next, hopefully soon.  I still haven't decided how I will paint it.  I am leaning toward a NATO camo M60 chassis and green bridge so I can use the decals from the kit.  Or I may do a sand M60 chassis and camo or green bridge w/homemade decals.  We shall see.

Sergeant

it take 2-5 minutes to deploy the bridge and 10 minutes to recover it.

That makes some sense, now that I think about it.  Was a bit of a mind bender about how to reconnect the hydralic connections to the bridge hinge without having to dismount (and we all know how armor types feel about dismounting [ ).

So, I'll imagine that the disconnect has a way of operating quick disconnect fittings to the bridge, which will reconnect as a default on recovery. 

My fault was in not imagining enough engineering complexity, juat a super-simple break-away system.  Mea culpa.