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Looking for a Little advice

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  • Member since
    January 2020
Looking for a Little advice
Posted by bigcountry on Friday, January 10, 2020 7:39 AM

I'm just beginning my Tamiya M4A3E8 build.  Should I be painting as I go, or complete the build then paint?  I went out and bought my first airbrush for this, but I will also hand brush the finer details.

11cVet

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Friday, January 10, 2020 8:04 AM

Every build is different,got to think it out and see what works best.Sometimes its sub assemblies,other times its the whole model.

On a Sherman,its mostly one color,I would assemble everything except the tracks and do the overall paint job,then hand paint the details tools and the rubber on the roadwheels.

I'm sure you will get another opinion,got to decide what works for you.

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Friday, January 10, 2020 8:12 AM

Hello!

That question keeps comin' up all the time on the forums. The answer is usually: "It depends!" If you think you can cut it, paint after all is glued up - this way you get stronger glue joints. If you want to paint something that would be unreachable after glueing, paint first, glue later.

In your case - a tank - a big factor would be if you want to build it "factory clean" or "field dirty". My take is if you build a dirty tank, it's mostly no good to paint clean colours first and then put dirt on top of that - best way is to paint it dirty right on. That would mean the whole running gear is mostly dirt colour with just a hint of raw metal or rubber looking through. In this case it would be perfectly OK to build the whole running gear, then paint it dirt colour - with airbrush this will be easy - and then just pick out the centers of the wheels in OD and just a hint of rubber tyres on the outside of the road wheels and some worn metal on the track teeth and the drive sprockets, and there you go - weathered tank!

I hope this helps you - thanks for reading and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by bigcountry on Friday, January 10, 2020 9:33 AM

Thank you! This gives me a much better idea in the direction I'd like to go with this.

11cVet

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Friday, January 10, 2020 9:41 AM
Pawel, brings up an important point. Most modelers use a product like Tamiya Extra Thin Cement which chemically melts the plastic and creates a very strong joint. It's also thin enough to paint over without an ugly seam or joint under the paint.
 
If you paint first and then use cement you will contaminate the cement, weaken the joint and generally ruin the paint. However; on a tank it's hard to paint the back side of road-wheels and drive sprockets when they are already in place on the lower hull. So like Tojo72 and Pawel said you need to think ahead before you paint a part or assembly.
 
Harold

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Friday, January 10, 2020 11:22 AM

Thinking ahead is "The KEY".

Sherman-Jumbo-1945

"I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now"

 

 
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, January 10, 2020 11:34 AM

Yeah it's as the guys have said it's all the same colour so personally I'd assemble the whole thing excepting the tracks and tools and hose it down with olive drab. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Dripping Springs, TX, USA
Posted by RBaer on Friday, January 10, 2020 5:06 PM

Each model is of course different, but I tend to do all my painting after assembly, leaving road wheels, tracks and sprockets off until the very end. Shermans are nothing out of the ordinary, and I've seen people build them with the suspension units off the hull, but keep in mind glue will not adhere to paint, so some scraping will be necessary to get down to plastic, not a big deal.

Apprentice rivet counter.

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by waynec on Saturday, January 11, 2020 8:20 PM

FWIW i build as much of the hull and turret as posible. that way i can fill and sand seams, etc. i paint the road wheel outsides on the sprue and brush paint steel on the insides next to the center guides because any real paint would rub off with movement. NOTE if you are showing the tank staionary they will rust up quickly as will the end connectors on the tracks. i hand paint the rubber or steel on each road wheel. i use rubber cement on the axles before painting the hull and peel it off to mount the wheels.

i tend to paint tools off the kit because i paint them wood and steel but i am good enough to glue them first. granted most would be painted the base color but my way adds a little contrast.

my big annoyance is modern vision blocks and periscopes. Laser resistant? armored thick? clear blue? clear green? purplish? ww2 would most likely be clear or maybe some clear smoke.

 

Никто не Забыт    (No one is Forgotten)
Ничто не Забыто  (Nothing is Forgotten)

 

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