Enter keywords or a search phrase below:
Hi,
I have recently aquired my second Sherman kit (in 50 years) and I would like to ask a bit of advice from you guys.
The kit actually comes with 2 full sets of boogies and 2 full sets of road wheels.One D sprue marked M4 and a V sprue marked VVSS.
I can not make out the difference between the boogies, I am sure there are some but not obvioues to my eyes. Instructions give you an option here.The roadwheels are a different story.One is a cast version (D) with 5 sprockets, the second is a stamped metal thingy (V). Boxart shows the stamped version - instructions ask for cast version. Not optional.I am just guessing here but I am assuming that I should be using parts from the same sprues to build up the complete sub assembly and that the instructions are just somewhat misleading. Would not be the first time.
So - is there like a rule of thumb - production line, version level, timeframe - to what version to be used?
Second question is with regards to the frontal armor / gear housing.Just gluing the parts together, frontal cast armor to side walls with drive wheel gear housing will result in a very vissible seam line between the casting and the side walls (sorry camera down at the moment).This could be intentional from Dragon, but it could also be corrected with putty and sanding. What would be your take on this?With regardsSvenne
sic transit gloria mundi
Right,
after some more searches I did find Paul Budzik's great walk through;Dragon Sherman Construction Tips.Its all there :)https://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Sherman%20Construction/sherman-construction.html
With regardsSvenne
Which Dragon Sherman kit is it? And are you planning to build the kit as boxed, including markings?
Shermans have lots of options for detail item variations. Have you tried looking for photos of the actual tank that you plan to build?
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
Hello stikpusher,
this is actually a Cyber-hobby release, M4A2(76) Red Army.
I think it originates from Dragons #6188 released in 2004.
My understanding is that the hull is improved with some raised weld lines.But the main issues with the frontal armor, gear housing and final drive stil causes issues.
I do not have a picture of a particular subject - searching the Interweb for something to fall back on and happy for any reference pictures.
Mr. Budzik has posted some very good reference material in the link above.
I think the only problem I would still need to adress is a gap in the front armor between the cast gear box and the glacis plate.
Since Mr. Budzik has not mentioned this I guess this is my own wrong doing and the better approach to resolve this would be to cut the cast section of again and reposition higher and further back. That approach will result in the lower end of the casting being in conflict with the lower hull though.As you can see in this picture I have trued to shim the front glacis down a bit.
I am a bit concerned about the cast turret as well:Cast structure a bit heavy in my view...
Here is a link to a great reference site on Sherman’s, and the page on the M4A2. Lots of photos for you to check the kit against and make your own assessment on how to deal with the issues that you've mentioned.
http://the.shadock.free.fr/sherman_minutia/manufacturer/m4a2largehatches/m4a2_largehatches.html
Thank you fro posting this link.
Lots of reference pictures indeed.
Regarding the gap between the gearhouse casting and front plate I have inserted a piece of evergreen strip and sanded it flush with the plate. The welded on ring for the MG canvas had to go at the same time.
Not sure how to deal with the casting texture and molding seam on the turret though.
Looking at the reference pictures in the link you posted, like the Serial Number 64465 in that article, it seems the molding seam should be there - but the heavy casting structure just looks a bit ... heavy.Thank you for taking your time and your kind reply!
Best RegardsSvenne
Hmmmmmm, my Dragon Iwo Jima Sherman has the same 3mm gap between the transmission cover and the forward glacis plate as yours. Wonder if it's common to many Dragon kits?
Still looks like you've got things under control there Svenne.
PS: Went back and checked - it's actually labeled as ' Tarawa Sherman' and is the M4A2 diesel powered USMC version.
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
The texture of the cast turrett may appear heavy while in bare plastic, but when you paint it and apply flat top coat that will not be nearly as harsh and will most likely look the part.
BK
On the bench:
A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!
2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed
14 / 5 / 2
Dragon's Shermans, beginning with kits 9009 & 9010, have always had excess parts because they do the mix and match. Those first two kits were retooled Italeri M4A2/A1 kits from the 1980s with new tooled parts.
Many of their kits have sprues with the same sprue numbers, but are different sprues. Really need to pay attention to their instructions, which often have errors in them as well.
They are a challenge to build.
BrandonK The texture of the cast turrett may appear heavy while in bare plastic, but when you paint it and apply flat top coat that will not be nearly as harsh and will most likely look the part. BK
I agree. If he doesn't like it he can either use some heavy layers of primer and sand down the high spots, or just sand it down as is and add his own texture.
To answer the question about the cast seam, yes it is supposed to be there, but it shouldn't be quite as pronounced. Definitely stick to those reference pictures. They will serve you well.
Nice fix on the gap. That's using your head.
- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.