Okay!

      There's this too. After moving in country, they usually didn't paint camo on them. The units in the front Yes! The ones I did in1/48 Bandai Armor, I did in Werhmacht Grey/Green. Slate Grey with a shade of  Moss Green to it. Usually take one tin of Humbrol Werhmacht Grey and four drops of Moss green. Mix well and Apply!

        Frontline vehicles I did in Mud Grey Green. This was the base followed by A weak wash of Black/Green! Let a little of the Werhmacht Grey show through in spots.This was a field Mod!

The basic problem with any answer about correct colors for Wehrmacht armor is that it often depended on how each crew mixed the paint, and what was available.  The colors were at best inconsistent.  So, you should pick that which looks best to you.

Bill Morrison

Thank you for your responses, gentlemen.

You've just taught me something new. Very appreciated!

warshipguy

The basic problem with any answer about correct colors for Wehrmacht armor is that it often depended on how each crew mixed the paint, and what was available.  The colors were at best inconsistent.  So, you should pick that which looks best to you.

Bill Morrison

 

Mixing the paint by crews goes out the window with early war German vehicles. They were painted at the factory in specific colors of brown and gray up to June 1940, then solid gray for the next couple of years until the three color camouflage was introduced in early 1943. The one exception to that at the factory would be vehicles slated for North Africa once the tropical colors had been developed and issued in 1941. The standards for the colors used are known. The only real variable would be the age and usage of the vehicles. But basic Panzer Gray starts at a known point, then fades and weathers from there.

If WW2 German crews were anything like Cold War US crews, we kind of just winged it until the factory applied NATO 3-color scheme arrived in the late 80s.

Even then, vehicles that did not get a lot of manuever abuse got faded by the sun. Vehicles that got beat up by trees and terrain got painted more often and the colors started varying as you mixed old paint with new paint or tried thinning it more to make it last.

Again, thank you for the replies. 

I've got much to consider here. 

Early war should be more uniform in color and not show too much wear or fading. Late war should show the opposite of that with lots of crew attention and less conformity.

So time period and theatre should dictate how I process the paint scheme. Got it.

Thank you, my friends. You've been invaluable again.

Let me see what I can do.

Update.

I've worked the upper Camouflage pattern over by dry brushing lighter colors over the yellow and green and then misting a 5to1 clear and desert yellow mix over the upper surfaces to blend it all together.

The lower part of the model just received drybrushed and fine brush highlights to provide some contrasting green and grey. 

The last thing I've done is gloss in prep for some decals and washes.

Mike: I like the 251, nice work! I haven't commented since I'm not sure if the colour is right or not but your results look good!

So it looks like you're doing one of the 1943 "field applied" schemes? A vehicle built in dark gray, then repainted at the front by the crew after the new 1943 camouflage colors became available to better help that vehicle match the local conditions. The troop compartment, and perhaps the running gear, are still gray, while the outer upper surfaces have a pattern of Dark Yellow and Olive Green applied over the gray.

Thank you, Gam. I'm beginning another season of practicing and improvements. I appreciate your comment. I certainly hope I haven't lost my edge lol.

Carlos, you are correct. I'm attempting to portray an end line vehicle that got the last of the paint and so was given a scheme that would make the most of the paint that was left. Henceforth the upper parts Camouflage with the lower still in grey. My planned weathering should tone it down more once I start "dusting" the model. But first, decals, washes, and then chipping. With maybe some more crew "maintenance" in evidence. 

I've got to get back into the swing of things and this old kit is my mule.

This is what I said earlier. Field applied means field mixed. Colors were inexact depending on the mix, what it was mixed with, and how it was applied.  For example, colors mixed with water differed from colors mixed with gasoline. Colors could be varied by the ratios of paint to base. They also could vary based on whether they were applied with brushes, air spraying, or mops. And, this is before weathering takes hold. In other words,get it to what you consider to be reasonably close.

Bill Morrison

Thanks, Bill. I will be trying to do exactly that.

Just got the decals on tonight. Not much to them, but they help break it up a bit more. I had to repair one of the crosses because part of it broke off when I went to dab it with a paper towel and I couldn't recover the piece lol. Fine tip brush to the rescue.

-Mike

Decals look good.

On to the next phase.

Looks just right from the old Squadron/Signal Panzer Colours books and SP and Bill said. 

Nice work, the contrast from the early war grey to the later mustard and green looks good! 

Thanks, Gam. 

I'll be testing some more ideas on it later, but it's benched for now. I've got some other projects I need to get ready to continue, such as my M-60 with the mine plow. 

I'm getting the itch again lol.

But for now I'm going to enjoy that little 222 and get something simple completed for the ol' mo jo boost.