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Greysnake,
Do you need some replacement rivets? I can send you whatever you need from my surplus Tauro kit. PM me if interested.
“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”
Looks neat Greysnake! Glad to hear you're feeling better, hope you continue to improve.
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
This is another thread I "rescued" from the stupid email providers mistaken placement . Regardless I'm looking forward to how you get on building this ol' guy.
Steve
Building the perfect model---just not quite yet
Thanks Gamera, doing better a lot better today. Tried to sit down and clean up my desk and get some work done but I'm really stiff. Maybe in the next couple days I'll be able to get back to work.
GreySnake Won't be any updates for at least the next week I'm afraid. Having to do physical therapy for my back and hips.
Won't be any updates for at least the next week I'm afraid. Having to do physical therapy for my back and hips.
Good luck, hope you feel better soon.
GreySnake I really wouldn't have wanted to be in any WWI tanks. Although if I had to make a choice it would be the French FT-17 since the engine was in its own compartment.
I really wouldn't have wanted to be in any WWI tanks. Although if I had to make a choice it would be the French FT-17 since the engine was in its own compartment.
We could probably build a tank on a Bobcat tractor and have more capibilites than an FT-17. It is really the father of the basic tank design; turret, driver, engine in rear.
Speaking of engines another thing crews had to deal with was carbon monoxide from the engines, being burned by the engines and the gas from the guns being fired.
And it was even worse than that! The British rhomboid tanks needed two drivers and a third guy in the back to manage the final gears for the transmission.
When my friend and I visited the Tank Museum in Bovington, there was a mock up of a rhomboid tank that visitors could climb inside and try to start the engine. The instructions explained that you needed three people to accomplish the task. But there was no one nearby to lend a hand, so we were unsuccessful.
Gamera Very cool, good luck with her GreySnake! Gotta love a barn on treads with guns sticking out in every direction.
Very cool, good luck with her GreySnake!
Gotta love a barn on treads with guns sticking out in every direction.
One of the jokes used on old tankers was. "He's been tanking since the days when a tank had a crew of ten; one driver and nine machine gunners.
Thanks Gamera.
I only did a little progress on the model today. I have a pretty bad cold that has pretty much sapped my energy.
I did get the front armor panel glued on and the fit was pretty good. The biggest problem will be the roof since the molding on it is pretty bad.
One positive thing it's given me some time to plan out the build a little more. Think I'll give the armor panels some extra texture with diluted Tamiya putty.
Rob, the only difference between my boxing and the one you had is it includes decals to make the A7V 563 named Wotan. The decals in my kit are supposed to represent A7V 503 or I believe that is what Tauro was going for.
RG, the tracks probably going to be the biggest source of frustration. One review I found online said to use staples that have be unfolded and I am going to give that a try. Once I get this kit done maybe I'll pull the Meng kit out of the stash.
I built this kit when it first came out. I wasn't too picky about fine fit or accuracy at the time. One problem I had was that the steel track pins were rough cut, so they ended up splitting a lot of the fragile (polyethylene?) track shoes.
I bought another kit decades later, and the molds definitely looked worse for wear (one of the large roof hatches looked like it got torn apart during mold release). I tried filing the track pin ends and found that solved the track assembly issue.
I now have the much more modern Meng kit in the stash. I look forward to see what you do with this "old chestnut".
I first ran across this kit when I was stationed in Germany (Dec 1987-90). I knew nothing about the kit or the company, but it looked like a neat kit. It wasn't overly expensive becasue of the exchange rate and I probably bought it in 1988 when I found a hobby shop in downtown Mannheim that carried very old, dusty kits.
It was/is a very rough kit and probably one of the first models I ever gave up on. The tracks were a bear to drill out and slide a crude metal pin through.
I ended up getting a second copy many years later that I've never even tried to tackle.
This is the box art on the kit I had, do you know if there are any differences between the two box arts beyond decals or markings?
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tauro-model-101-sturmpanzerwagen-a7v--133448
Stik, I think the problems with the kit vary between when they were made. I almost finished one at one point and it wasn't too bad. The molds on this boxing are pretty rough.
One interesting fact is when the kit came out in 1981 it won model of the year from a German model magazine.
Keavdog, I wonder how good Tauro's aircraft were? I built another tank by the as a teen a Fiat 3000 and it was a nice build until I found out the tracks were one link short.
Ive seen that kit around for years. I think I had their Folgore ages ago.
Totenkopf is my Steam/Counterstrike name
Thanks,
John
I remember some of the guys at AMPS talking about those Tauro kits. You're a brave and bold soul to take this on. Bamboozled by the box art indeed!
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
I started working on this kit for the Bamboozled by the Box Art GB. This kit is pretty infamous for its many problems such as fit, accuracy, detail and tracks. But there has also been something that’s drawn me to this kit ever since I saw an ad for the kit in a Squadron catalog. You do have to admit the box art is pretty nice.
I started out test fitting the armor panels together and there is going to be a lot of filling and sanding involved. I’ll also need to replace a lot of rivets that are going to be sanded off. After test fitting I did start gluing the two side panels to the rear panel to let them sit overnight. The kit comes with an interior which isn’t good and I am not going to bother with it. Since the Tauro kit doesn’t do a good job at representing any A7V I am probably going to make a fictional one used by the Freikorps (German Post WWI paramilitary). My idea is to paint it gray and put a few skull and cross bones on the front and side of the model.
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