Ben,

I have this model too, as it was one of my "Grail" kit for many years.  Will be looking forward to seeing this get built!  I can't help but wonder if the bridge will hold in the upright position, as the parts seem very delicate.

Yeah, that sounds interesting, I'll be watching! Good luck with your build!

Yeah super cool choice in kits guys! I've built the AVRE version with the giant mortar but not the bridge- I don't remember any real problems with it but that was years ago... 

DRUMS01

Perhaps one of you can tell me why "they" chose to call the right and left suspension boxes panniers?

I have this vague memory that the Brits were very concerned, during development of the Churchil, about rail line clearance, and required that various "bits" of tanks and similar venicles be designed to be removable.  All the better to clear tunnels and narrow rail bridges.

This was less of an issue in real life, as commerce dictated widening the rail line ROWs.  But, the notion of the track units being "hung" off the sides of the hull like luggage panniers from a pack horse or motorcycle remained.

Much in the same way that the original "naval" terminology for "tanks" was retained despite the need for obsfucation having long since passed.

But, it's early, coffee is only barely kicking in, and I've been wrong before.

Thanks for the explaination CptnMac and now time for another update:

Time for steps 8-9 which is basically adding the front sprocket and finishing some of the pannier details.



Right away in step 8, if you notice, they instruct you to remove two blocks on the drive sprocket cover. And it shows C11 with and without the blocks. This part of the instruction creates some issues. First is the challenge of removing the blocks without removing any other nut and bolt detail. Second, when removing the blocks you create ugly holes where the blocks were so now the holes need filled. Third, to fill the holes and smooth the panel there is a great chance of removing more detail on the part. Later in the build we were searching for another sprue, low and behold we found that they provided extra parts on sprue S to replace parts C11 and the corresponding part on the other pannier that already had those blocks removed. This means Jarrod and I didn't need to modify the drive sprocket cover (C11) at all and just use the updated parts on sprue "S".   



IMPORTANT NOTE: Study each parts tree and instruction carefully before the build. In the case identified above, the instructions did not identify an alternate part ("S"). If we would've studied the parts trees prior to beginning the build it would've made those modifications unnecessary. Of course, if the instructions were complete they would've listed the alternate parts instead of instructing us to cut on C11.

Step 9 will have you add the small details to the pannier. 

NOTE 2: The small bolt heads identified as M2 are added to both panniers around 12 on each side. We recommend the builder ream out or use a drill bit slightly larger than the bolt shaft to make it substantially easier to add the pin head size bolts using pin pointed tweezers.



Steps 10-11 duplicate the same process on the other sides pannier.

In step 12 you complete the details on the panniers.



NOTE: Parts B3 and B4 are extremely thin, small, and fragile but are connected to the sprue tree with four larger than necessary sprue connectors. The parts represent holders for the tow cable that go above the escape doors. During the removal process (with a sharp knife and a high quality sprue tool) I managed to break them and repair is not the best option. Our solution will be to replace them with custom shaped brass or PE parts. Speaking of PE parts, the bracket used to hold the track link to the pannier is PE. The instruction does not provide any detail on how it is folded and oriented on the pannier. After looking at the box art and several on-line photos we found that the track bracket is bent at 90 degrees into a "L" shape. The top of the "L" is oriented to the top on the pannier and on the corresponding two raised dots on the pannier. The track is then mounted by inserting the bracket through the bottom holes in the track, with the larger portion of the track in the upper position and against the pannier (refer to the previous photos).

Step 13 has finally come for Jarrod and I to add the panniers to the chassis floor, rear, and front armor plate. To ensure the chassis is square I added the rear chassis part first to the left pannier before adding the bottom of the chassis. This helped us keep the chassis floor at the right angle (square) between the panniers thus helping us keep the chassis assembly straight. It also helped us add the other pannier correctly. 

The last part of step 13 is adding the weight to the rear of the chassis (to off-set the bridge). A quick trip to our local "Hobby Lobby" and I got some soap box derby lead weights. So the first question is how many ounces is 100 grams? Turns out to be a little more than 3.5 ounces.

As you can see by the photo, we've managed to get quite a bit more done, specifically from step 13 all the way to step 23. So, lets just say that we've added the details to the rear (steps 14-15). We're not concerned with the ejection pin marks that you see on the lower track guide as it will be obscured by the track once installed.





Built up the top of the chassis (step 16)



Built up the front armor plates and rear engine cover, basically closing the tank chassis (steps 17-19). Before closing it up, Jarrod and I also glued the forward suspension to simulate the bridge load pulling the front of the tank down just a little.



Next we added the front hinge brackets for the bridge to the tank (step 20). You may also notice that the machine gun is not in the mount in front as we are going to add it after painting. 



Then Jarrod and I built up the exhaust and access handles (steps 21-22)



Now Jarrod and I are working on step 23 which is the 73 track links per side using the AFV Club individual links. I don't have much to compare them to as I do not have any comparable metal links and this is out first AFV kit individual links. The instructions show two of the internal halves of the track links with one external link and arrows showing two of the three pieces being glued together. This is basically a process where one top and one bottom key together to capture the track pin molded in the inside half. Check out the engraved detail on each track link. I think it will look good on the exposed area of track by the turret. 

The tolerances are quite tight but after you start a couple and identify the technique to insert the next external half without breaking any protrusions on either part the process is rather straight forward. All it takes is a couple small dots of CA cement between the two parts away from the hinge points and everything basically snaps in place. 



The instructions will have you create 72-73 links per side, or 144-146 pieces per side, or 432 sprue connection points to trim per side. This is where a good precision sprue cutter will greatly reduce the trimming, but it is still a slog. And here is where Jarrod and I stopped today, at least one side is built. Oh, and we did test fit the completed set of tracks which fit perfectly in the guides and sprockets (yippie).



I think we are going to build up the remaining sub-assemblies next (after the second track) so they will be ready for painting. Until next time, thanks for following and as always suggestions or comments welcome.

Ben and Jarrod

Hello!

Lookin' very good, lots of nice detail here!

Good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

I'm definitely taking notes here, to help smooth the build when I get to mine!

You guys are making great progress! Darn shame about the bad instructions though. 

Let's see, the last update was step 23 with the track links. Now that they are done we began completing the remaining subassemblies in prep for painting. 



Because of setting assemblies aside for paint, we could not complete step 24 which was the adding of the track guards over the attached tracks. Here we moved forward in building those assemblies. Instead of showing every individual step, Jarrod and I are going to show you the built up sub-assemblies and identify any positives or negatives along the way. 

The first assembly after 24 was the mechanical gear reduction rig for lifting or lowering the bridge. We are please to say that is fit together with no problems. We would caution anyone building this kit to make sure the parts are oriented as shown in the instructions. While that sounds obvious, little differences in some of the gears and bracing make a big difference in the fit. Here is the completed assembly:



Next was the build-up of the turret. One thing we found out much earlier in this build is the desire by AFV Club to make as many parts as possible, especially small ones. We say that because on some parts they mold nice details into it while others have individual pins, hooks, handles, bolt heads, caps, etc. in as many parts as possible (?). We are not complaining about the detail at all, just questioning the need sometimes for the parts count. Speaking of detail, the turret has a nice scale cast texture along with manufacturer numbers on the side.  

The first part of the turret was building the gun breech and in this AFV club excelled. Once the gun internals were added to the lower part of the turret the top was added to close it up. The external portion of the mortar can be built either in the stowed position or locked in battery, ready to use. 



During this part of the build we identified that part "N" (a small metal spring) was not with the kit either. Perhaps it was in the same bag as the polly caps that were also missing earlier for the drive sprockets (?). 





Since it was a visible part we decided to create our version of the spring using piano wire and micro solder, here is the result. We hope that with wash and dry brushing that it will look the part:



In step 41 the photo etch bracket (part G19) can appear misleading as to its bending and location, fortunately AFV Club provides a image of the actual part mounted on the gun. 



Another nice touch is the option to pose the turret side ports open or closed. In our situation we assembled the left side closed and the right open and the extra little PE provided makes a nice touch. Step 43 allows you to position the TC turret periscope covers in either the open or closed position too; we made ours open. Also, just an observation, the kit provides the flat and raised TC copula but for the Mk IV AFRE version is should be the flat version that is shown during assembly. As the build continues we find that there are numerous optional parts on the sprue, depending on the version your building so the builder will have spare parts for future builds when done. During this phase of the build we left off parts C18 and E28 to be painted separately. The turret is completed in steps 44-45. 





By this point in the build the fording intakes and exhaust, completed track assemblies, along with the rear bridge gear reduction assembly and exhaust are already added. This is where the tank portion of the build will stop for paint. Just to give followers an idea of the progress Jarrod and I set the assemblies together for a couple photos:

Tank with turret and tracks


Previous photo with track fenders, exhaust, and rear lift assembly added


Next is the bridge which fell together easily, but we caution the builder to make sure your orientation of the large end cap (part U4) is correct (referring to the connection points both small and large) as that will impact your ability to keep the sections square and straight when combining them.



And here is where we are at this moment, building the remaining three sections like this:



Looking ahead, we were asked in another forum what Jarrod and I were going to use for the cabling for the bridge. While the kit provides some black thread that they instruct to paint steel, we are most likely going to go with an actual metallic thread (more on that later). 

Next update should have the bridge assemblies done with painting following shortly thereafter. Thanks for following, and as always comments, suggestions, and criticism are welcome.

Ben and Jarrod

You guys are doing great. You picked a very interesting subject. Great attention to detail you are doing. will be following closely.

Thanks lurch. 

UPDATE: 

We finished the four sections of the bridge Small Box Girder (SBG) bracing. 



Jarrod and I were surprised with the bridge details but also let down a little with some of the ejection pin tabs and their locations. The photo below gives everyone an idea of the large half round tabs that had to be removed around delicate pin detail (parts U6 and U11 had 4 on each part and in curved sensitive locations). This has been an ongoing issue throughout the build. 



Next was butting two of the subassemblies together at the large ends to make the two long SBG sections. Once that was done we tied them together with the two part cross sections (U27/28) at each end. Here is where Jarrod and I stopped today (in the middle of step 49). 





Looking ahead, there appears to be some very small parts that will be used as stress points for connections and cable linkage. Regardless if the bridge is cemented to the lower hull pivot point or not, this will be a very delicate build once complete. If anyone else has already built this kit, please let me know if there are any load handling concerns ahead regarding those small parts (thanks).... 

Thats it for now, thanks for following along, comments encouraged.

Ben and Jarrod

Progress:

The bridge as an assembly is d-o-n-e, however there are still many small parts and all the cabling to be created. Here are the steps for the bridge.







Things of note during the bridge assembly:

- In step 48 part U22 does not have any specific slot, pin, or mark to fit it to. Careful assembly will have you add half of it to one of the two SBG subassemblies and allow overhang to add the other half of the part to the other identical subassembly. This will also assist you in properly adding the PE part G23.

- In step 48 the guide pins along with the side pins make adding the two assemblies together very difficult. To aide in the assembly we suggest that the guide holes on end plate (U4) be drilled one size larger or slightly reamed larger than what is already there as that will allow some slight drifting into place. In addition, the side pin can be removed if needed as they do not aide in squaring up the final assembly. Doing this will allow you to add the assemblies and keep them square and straight, which will be very important in following steps. Jarrod and I used a straight edge to ensure they were properly plumbed. 

- In step 48 the hinge pivot brackets (parts U6 and U11) appear in the instructions to be attached to the outer side of the SBG frame sub-assemblies K and J, this is not correct. Step 49 will correct the previous image by referencing the subassemblies (K-J) and showing the proper orientation (see below). 

- In step 49 the SBG frame can be attached in any configuration as all four ends match the attachment point for part U27. Make sure the bridge hinge pivot brackets of subassemblies K and J are oriented to the inside of part U27 when assembling the frame (see image). 

- In step 49 all four road plank parts (U1) are identical from the top and ends but they require careful orientation. Look at the bottom of the parts to ensure they are added correctly to the SBG frame. They must be attached with the multi-angle bracing on the inside of the frame in order for parts U16 in step 50 to fit. Look closely at the instructions and test fit the mentioned parts before permanently attaching them.

- In step 51 it identifies two parts as U32 which is incorrect. One is right and the other is left oriented. The correct part number for the second piece is U33. So when one U32 and one U33 are used together they mate up correctly. By the way, there are 4 identical "U" sprue so you really could add two U32 parts in error if not careful.

- In step 51 parts U20 (two per side) have an ejection pin tab on the side that captures part U24. Those very small tabs must be trimmed for the parts to fit as intended.



On another note, step 31 identifies parts without any part numbers. 



Upon careful inspection Jarrod and I identified the fuel cans and carry tray as E1 and E38. Two cans are attached to the carry bracket to make the part shown on the instructions. In addition, the scale angle iron parts holding the top of the cans and attached to PE part G10 are actually other PE parts G15. 



While parts detail has been overall very good along the way, there has been numerous mold ejection pin depressions and tabs (some shown on the instructions and some not). This can create issues if you do not catch them prior to assembly. There are also numerous instruction errors that I suspect have been caused in part to drawings from one versions kit instructions being added to other versions instructions of that model. With new sprue trees added and a mix of borrowed images, there are definately some errors, so check and test fit every part and review all the parts trees in the kit before starting on assembly.

Our next update will build some of the cabling and then the painting will begin.... till then.

Ben and Jarrod

OK, Jarrod and I finally found what we think is the right scale and shape for the wench cabling. We also found another great looking cabling just a little smaller. 

Nylon micro weave wench cabling (various colors too). 



And here is the other cabling in real metal but smaller diameter. 



And here is a better detail view with comparisons. The one on top is the smaller scale real metal cable. Just below it is the lightest color of the S-LON Beadsmith followed by a typical string and then a darker S-LON cable. Jarrod and I are going to use the last one with kind of a steely blue hue to it. The weathering should really add depth (we hope). 

Some other thing we've been working on for the Churchill.

- multi part hook clamps for the extended intake and exhaust vents.



- the wench pully's along with the electronic disconnect linkage. You can also see the end of one of the cables. The basic pully contains 5 parts while the pully with the electronic disconnect is made of 11 pieces. 



This last week has been a challenge to get some paint on the kit, but we hope to have that resolved this week. Thanks for looking, and let us know what you think.

Ben and Jarrod

DRUMS01

And here is the other cabling in real metal but smaller diameter.

The beading section of the local craft store can be a real reasure trove for modelers.

Ben & Jarrod: That looks fantastic guys! The bridge section looks like a pain to keep straight and non-twisted. Love the extra detail you're adding. 

Thanks Gamera, sorry for the late reply or update; the ramp up to Christmas was very busy, but Jarrod and I are back!

So, been near a month without showing any work on this. Thought I might provide some updates. Most everything is assembled except some very small parts or details that were waiting for paint. I did manage to get some of those small things done. 

- The version Jarrod and I are building will be using the intake and exhaust vents. The slide molding of the one piece vents is excellent, but the small parts associated with them are not. Most of the issues I'm having are with me, not the parts. Some parts are so small they almost disappear within the tweezers. The attach points, hooks, and turnbuckle are individual pieces that would rival even some small PE on ships. The scale plastic rod that attached to the turnbuckle and to the top of the tank were broken in multiple pieces and what was left was severely bent up. I decided to use steel rod in its place. One issue with that was the intake bracing is more like the letter "Y". Both the rods from the turnbuckles join together and a single rod attached to the tank. I saw a couple images with individual rods joining to one location on the tank to, so if the scratch built metal "Y"'s are a problem Jarrod and I may make individual wire reinforcements. After some work, rework, groveling, and more rework, here they are ready for paint. In the photo is a cable for the lift too.





- The tow cables appear on the box image, but the actual photos of the built kit on the side of the box left them off. We were going to add them after painting but then thought better of it and added them now. One strange thing we noticed is that the pin hooks that hold the tow cable ends were far to short on the kit to hold anything, to we also modified them to show a bolt being used to keep them in place through the eyelet. Jarrod and I mentioned earlier in the build that the angle iron used to keep the tow cables in place above the pannier doors were all but destroyed in the mold process so we decided to make our own from modified spare PE. After three attempts we finally come up with something acceptable. So here is how the kit looks with the complete tow cable assemblies on as well as the intake boxes. 





- Keeping with the main tank chassis, we decided to add the front machine gun before painting too. Instead of using the poorly detailed kit part Jarrod and I decided to use a turned brass barrel from spares. We think the results speaks for itself. During this update we also added the periscope covers too. 



- More on the main tank chassis, we texture painted the exhaust to reflect rust. Here it is drying while resting on the tank. We're still going to add paint variations, but a large part of what lays on the rear deck is covered. The exhaust opening will benefit from some detail painting as well. 



- Same thing is going on with the turret, we decided to add the various small parts to the side and top of the turret before painting. Looking at the image it seems we need to straighten the PE before painting (small thing). Once the painting, weathering, and detailing is done, All thats left to add is the crew figures and antenna.



- We finished the main assembly of the bridge to include the lifting yoke and cables. In the process we found that the parts that attaches from the lift cables to the yoke are permanently attached. Since we want to be able to remove the bridge for travel, we decided to make a new end that has a separate piece (pin) that slides through the yoke bracket and through the lift cable assembly. It will hold it firmly in place when displayed and is easily removable for moving the display.



- Jarrod and I have also managed to get the soldiers assembled and the resin after-market detail items cleaned up and fitted as well. Of course all of this will be painted before being added to the Churchill. 

So thats it for now, but at least we're still moving forward on the kit. Next, priming, then lots of painting.

Ben and Jarrod

This is a really cool build! You've got my attention.

No worries Ben, it's been very hectic around here too. 

She's looking superb! 

Thanks Mike and Gamera, we appreciate the feedback. 

Jarrod and I wanted to have this update show some painting but that still has not happened. You see, we want to ensure all the assembly is finished to the point of painting but we keep finding things to add. This was especially true when we were looking for any information concerning the pioneer tools (shovel, pick/axe, sledge hammer, pry bar, etc.). We thought it kind of odd that the instructions did not show or tell us anything, but we had the parts in the kit (?). After some research we found the following images:





So with the new information we added the items to the engine and final drive covers for what you see here:



The instructions also failed to call out and forward driving lights, but once again we found the parts in the kit. Here is the end result. One of the little clear lights evidently fell off on the left side, should be an easy fix:



In our research we saw several photos of a brace that tied both exhaust stacks together. This seemed to be a very common brace on most all AVRE extended exhaust configurations.



Once again, we found what we thought were the parts in the spares of the kit, but no mentioned in the instructions (?). Here they are on the exhaust, but keep in mind that we cannot connect them until the exhaust is fed through the rear winch:



Last update we talked about starting the assembly for the bracing on the intake and exhaust extensions. After several attempts to create something using the Frankenstein method of kit and scratch parts (unsuccessfully), we decided to create the bracing from scratch. You saw some of the work in an earlier photo, but here they are more or less finished. The tensioners will be detailed more through painting:



And the big test was to see if the exhaust, winch, tools, and bracing will all fit in harmony. It was a success, with no touching or binding of assemblies:





The last thing were are showing is pretty much the final; assembly of the bridge carrier components and cables:





And everything from this update:



Well, thats it for now, thanks for following along. As always, comments are not only welcome, but encouraged....

Till next time,



Ben and Jarrod

Ben & Jarrod: She's coming along great guys! 

Thanks Gamera. Jarrod and I finally got the kit primed, in this instance with flat black primer. I previously mentioned that its been more difficult than we thought it would be getting a correct color for the base green.

So here is what Jarrod and I finally came up with:



And here are shots of the premiered kit:





Along the way we started on the accessories, including the figures. Here's the color pallet for them:



Figures in base coat:



Looking forward in getting some No. 24 B.S. 381 on the plastic. Hope to show it next update.

Ben and Jarrod

And here is a little snippet, it's got green paint!





Time to let it dry for a day or two, so lets see what I can get into till then (?).

She's coming along great guys! You're better modelers than I, I'd have broken off half those tiny guy lines and cables. 

Been some time since the last update so we thought we would show everyone our progress.

- add, repaired, items on hull and turret.



- began first stage of weathering.



- started adding wear and weathering to tracks.



- assembled and started painting of the figures.



- added base coats to bags, tarps, rolls, etc.

Next gloss coat and decals, then add tracks, final assembly, final wash / dry brush / weathering. Jarrod and I still undecided on how to display it when done; diorama, kit only (no base), kit with basic base, etc.

Looks great guys!!! 

I'd go with a small simple base just so you can attach the model to it and then handle only the base and not have to touch the model again.  It really helps to not break the more delicate parts. 

Gamera

just so you can attach the model to it and then handle only the base

Gamera is smart here.  As long as you can still get inside the hule (e.g. the turret or the like is not affixed) drill a small hole for like a 3/16x3 (or M5x75) bolt to pass through.

Some would suggest epoxy at this point, but, really a washer and a nut will hold the bolt to the hull.  This can be then passed through a building board until a final base is set up.

It's a practice pretty common in model ship building, and for similar reasons.

Thanks Gamera and CptMac82 for your input, its appreciated. I was planning on mounting it on something for the same reasons, but Jarrod and I are still undecided on just how much of a base to build. We want to start on a couple other builds, but we also want this to really look like a finished product. We want a convincing base but not something that takes the focus away from the kit. So perhaps an earth incline to a partially destroyed wood bridge and a few more figures looking on. 

OK, finally an update with something to show. Jarrod and I have been working on the tank to the point where we can seal what we have and begin the final road dirt, slight washes, and very light chipping. Next we will begin the same on the bridge, but here is where the Churchill is at the moment.







Hope you all approve as Jarrod and I like it so far.

Ben and Jarrod

She looks really good guys! You did a knock-up job on her! 

Captain: Less smart than done that, been there, got the T-shirt on breaking small parts on models while picking them up and moving them around. 

Gamera

Captain: Less smart than done that, been there, got the T-shirt

Hey, the notion of having a "handle" for armor models is not exactly obvious.

Which makes is an excellent thing to share.

That, and at least you can still find the t-shirt