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Using stencils with Tamia paint

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  • Member since
    November 2023
Using stencils with Tamia paint
Posted by Don_K on Friday, December 22, 2023 9:48 AM

I have two M4A1 model kits with only one set of decals.  I decided to try stenciling for the markings.  I scanned the decals intgo my computer, did somephotoshop majic to reverse the white markings and remove the background.  I printed them out on removable label stock and cut out the markings (figuring that would peel off the model without damaging the paint underneath).  I made the mistake of brushing the flat white Tamiya paint over the Olive Drab Tamiya paint.  The thinner on the fresh paint disolved the base paint and the brush just mixed the colors.  I wiped the entire area clean with thinner and re-applied the Olive Drab base coat.  Ready to try again.

I am thinking of air brushing muiltiple light coats of Flat White over the stencils.  Is this worth trying?  If not, then I guess I could try Testors enamell Flat White for the markings.

Sorry to ask such a potentially stupid question but I've been away from modeling for 25 to 30 years and I find it has changed quite a bit.  I used to use only Testors enamel but the color selection has dropped significantly so I am trying to get used to other paint brands/types.

Thanks in advance,

Don

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Wednesday, December 27, 2023 9:39 PM

Well, yes. Airbrushing over stencils works very well. 

However I would recommend trying out the new acrylic paints when you can. They've come a long way towards being a better product than enamels in many respects, especially cleaning out your airbrush.

I use a lot of Vallejo paints, but Tamiya is still king in my opinion. They're just far more consistent in their reliability.

A lot of things have changed. Don't be afraid to experiment.

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Thursday, December 28, 2023 5:14 AM

The rubbing with the similar thinner is what did it,as was mentioned,airbrushing with light coats should do it.

One thing to remember,with brush painting a 2nd coat,filtering,weatheing,and washing you need a dissimilar medium or a dissimilar protective clear coat to protect your basecoat.Example

Acrylic base=enamel or lacquer washes

Enamel base= acrylic washes 

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Thursday, December 28, 2023 8:29 AM

Don_K
I am thinking of air brushing muiltiple light coats of Flat White over the stencils.  Is this worth trying?  If not, then I guess I could try Testors enamell Flat White for the markings.

Airbrushing is going to be the best way to go in most cases of applying one color over the top of another, especially when using a stencil.  When brush painting, the paint is going on really thick and wet and will have a tendency to creep underneath the stencils.  That wetness and thickness also leads to what you saw because not only are the solvents in the wet paint being given more active time, but you're also applying a mechanical stress to the paint underneath which causes the mixing you're seeing.  I haven't found any hard, fast rules for what can go on top of what when brush painting.  It always seems to be hit and miss, except in the case of applying enamels over the top of a real lacquer like MRP, Mr. Color, or Tamiya's Lacquer line.  With those 3 paint types, they are all pretty bullet-proof when it comes to an enamel being able to dissolve or damage them. 

With airbrushing, you don't have to be concerned as much with paint creep either.  When airbrushing, you'll just want to avoid angling the airbrush to point into the edges of the stencil so you don't get paint ridges.  I highly recommend getting comfortable with masking and airbrushing things.  It just looks so much better.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

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