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ok spell it out. rust for a newbie

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, July 17, 2004 10:51 AM
It's neat to see all the different ways people have of showing rust, even to the point of using actual rust!

I use both the pastel method and also, for things like mufflers, exhaust pipes, etc. a highly thinned wash of Testors enamel Rust that I keep in a mixing jar and apply in varying coats and places depending on the effect I want to produce. Combine it with washes of Gunmetal and it can produce a nice metallic, dark/rusty look without looking like it spent a week in salt water.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 17, 2004 4:48 AM
one of the simplest ways I found from a model site, was to use pastel chalk,
orange colour.

Just simply tough up the areas you want to rust, around bolts, shackles, tow hooks etc..

looked fine to me

Dave
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: ...Ask the other guy, he's got me zeroed-in...
Posted by gringe88 on Friday, July 16, 2004 11:25 PM
neone ever heard of Instant Rust also??? comes in a set of two bottles. One's a bottle of tiny iron particles hung in a solution, and the other is some sort of lite acid. just brush on the instant iron, wait a day or so for it to dry, then apply the solvent. you can apply thesolvent several times to build up and increase the amount of rust. I've used it on several occasions and it worked great.

bob collignon used it on his sherman in FSM a couple years ago. if you dont like the color of the rust, u can use a wash to darken it, or just apply more solvent to brighten it. even though its very useful, I also use other methods to create rust. sometimes, the rust needs to be lighter, and a bit differnent in color.

so to everyne else who had tricks up their sleeves to share, thanks!! they'll really help add to the tricks I know now.
====================================== -Matt
  • Member since
    September 2011
Posted by fightnjoe on Thursday, July 15, 2004 11:19 PM
that is awesome. thanks for the idea. i have steel wool in a jar right now and i am still waiting for the replacement part. scratch building it sounds really good right now.

joe

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  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 15, 2004 11:16 PM
We were fishing one time off an old dock and i decided to go swimming. When i got out i noticed a pretty rusty bar about a foot long. i have used that for 8 years know. just get some sand paper and scrape some off.
  • Member since
    September 2011
Posted by fightnjoe on Monday, May 17, 2004 11:25 AM
cool. will post pics when i get it done.

joe

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  • Member since
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  • From: directly above the center of the earth or known as Dixon, IL.
Posted by NEW MEX on Sunday, May 16, 2004 10:00 PM
thundergod, the steel wool idea sounds interesting. what's better than rust for rust?Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 11:19 PM
You could also try this one. http://www.tankfive.net/pagine%20inglesi/tips&tricks/rust.htm
  • Member since
    September 2011
Posted by fightnjoe on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 8:04 PM
thankyou my friends i am looking forward to trying some of these methods.

joe

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 5:42 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by phroosh

I use a very selective wash of burnt sienna, and sometimes a dry brush with various shades of hull red.

I stole the wash idea fair and square off Michael VK.

Matt


Woohoo! My first ever reference!!

The formula I'm using now works using the following procedure:

1: Paint the bare metal colour gun metal
2: Use a medium wash of burnt sienna oil
3: Apply dark red pastel
4: Apply orange pastel
5: Apply yellow pastel

As you go along use less and less of the pastels.. Say 1part red, 2/3rds orange and 1/3rd yellow. Apply while the wash is still damp.. It looks great.. If you want rust streaks take a TINY dot of burnt sienna oil paint and brush in a downward stroke a thinner (in my case I use turpentine) loaded brush. Repeat this to thin out the rust streak, but don't reapply thinner. I can't remember where I got this recipe from though..
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 5:20 PM
I use a very selective wash of burnt sienna, and sometimes a dry brush with various shades of hull red.

I stole the wash idea fair and square off Michael VK.

Matt
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 3:45 PM
Mike and Larry,
Thanks for the info, that's a keeper.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 2:49 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by renarts

ok joe. R.u.s.t. f.o.r. a. n.e.w.b.i.e....Rust for a newbie. (sorry, I couldn't resist)


Tongue [:P]

QUOTE: One of the things that I was told was that the germans were pretty regular about wiping down their exhaust pipes etc. Rust is detrimental and rusted things give out. When you are not in a position to be able to get replacement parts on a regular basis you take care of things. They last longer. So don't over rust German equipment. (The source is from an ex SS tanker so I hold it as pretty reliable info)


I've read the same thing. One of the German experts (forget the guy's name) was at a modelling convention and he said that the Germans kept their tanks pretty spiffy if at all possible.

He also said that they painted over scratches of discolorations due to battle damage, chipping zimmerit, etc. And he claimed that dunkelgelb does not fade, as it is made purely with natural pigments and these apparently never fade. Interesting stuff, and food for thought.
  • Member since
    September 2011
Posted by fightnjoe on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 2:29 PM
thanks all. i will be trying a few of the techniques.

joe

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  • Member since
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  • From: Sunny Florida
Posted by renarts on Tuesday, May 11, 2004 9:58 PM
ok joe. R.u.s.t. f.o.r. a. n.e.w.b.i.e....Rust for a newbie. (sorry, I couldn't resist)

Paint your base color that you normally would.(If it was painted at the factory) . Do your wash (what ever color you would normaly do to make your detail pop out. Then I take my orange pastel chalk dust and "paint" or brush that on. It gives that rusty texture and when you blow the excess off it looks like oxidation rust. (or dwights paint mix of rust color and talc works equally to texture). If you just use the orange pastels (or wait till the paint dries) then go over the connection points with black pastel. Then I do my final with pencil lead and when its all said and done, you have that good rust on metal look and it doesn't look overdone.

One of the things that I was told was that the germans were pretty regular about wiping down their exhaust pipes etc. Rust is detrimental and rusted things give out. When you are not in a position to be able to get replacement parts on a regular basis you take care of things. They last longer. So don't over rust German equipment. (The source is from an ex SS tanker so I hold it as pretty reliable info) While there may have been some from heat etc. I don't think you'd see thse bright orange exhaust pipes that pop up on o many vehicles. Go out and look at your own construction equipment that run on diesel etc. It may not be factory new but it certainly not the bright orange manifolds either.

Mike
Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Tuesday, May 11, 2004 9:12 PM
All good techniques above Joe. They pretty much covered what I've used. Try a couple of them out and see what you like. Some work better for different effects too.

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, May 11, 2004 8:54 PM
There is always the real thing aswell....if you put a steel wool scrub pad in a container of water for 3 to6 days it will rust you just swish it around in the water and the you are left with rusty water. Looks great, I have personally not tried it as of yet, my buddy told me that is how he does it and showed me the results.....rust.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Philippines
Posted by Dwight Ta-ala on Tuesday, May 11, 2004 6:57 PM
For thin rust, I use tamiya acrylics...dark brown mixed with some flat black...mixed with a little metallic grey.

Metallic grey has some little grains that when coated with darkenned dark brown looks really like rust.

  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by Abastyr on Tuesday, May 11, 2004 6:38 PM
Dark Red Brown Soft Pastels is what I use. Spread it on with a Soft Brush, Than use a thicker stiffer brush to brush it into the armor, and the excess off.

Take a look at my armor below, I rusted some of the spots where water might Sit for a period of time.

http://www.andysmodels.com/KVII.html

abastyr
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Dahlonega, Georgia
Posted by lizardqing on Tuesday, May 11, 2004 6:25 PM
That should work pretty good Joe. The best rust I have done was an accident.
  • Member since
    September 2011
ok spell it out. rust for a newbie
Posted by fightnjoe on Tuesday, May 11, 2004 6:20 PM
ok armor folks. i am at the point that i need some info. i want to put some rust on the willys i am working on. problem being as an a/c guy all i really know is drybrushing and a little bit of washing. i was thinking of using talc (painted appropriately) and a wash. what do you think?

joe

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