New to Armor first wash, Suggestions????

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

New to Armor first wash, Suggestions????

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 17, 2004 6:32 PM

This is my first armor kit and am ready to wash my tamiya M41 bulldog and was wondering what all you guys use for washes?

I have read articles on using oils, enamels, and acrylics. Any pros and cons on all these types and what color suggetions should I use to mix to make the wash? I have read rust, raw umber, burnt sienna, black or combinations. Just looking for a little experience with mixing a good wash to apply.

The bulldog is in OD green and the turret and hull has a coat of future, road wheels have a coat of enamel clear, long story. Just need to make sure that whatever wash I use is compatible with both coats of clear.

Since this is my first armor model I am not looking for any type of effect other then to add shadow and depth with the wash as well as make the tank look like it is in regular service but has not just rolled off the battlefield. Thanks in advance.

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kaleu

Member since
February 2003
From: Racing capital of the world- Indy

Posted by kaleu on Monday, May 17, 2004 7:30 PM

If you have only applied a glossy finish, try a pinwash. A pinwash is just like a normal wash with the exception that is applied with a fine paintbrush and is only applied along the lines or seams of the vehicle. The glossy finish allows the capillary action of the wash to move along the lines or seams and does not go all over the vehicle. Think about the lines of engine or crew hatches. This adds some shadows and depth to the model. All of the colors you mentioned above will work good and combinations are even better.

Erik "Don't fruit the beer." Newest model buys: More than I care to think about. It's time for a support group.

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Dwight Ta-ala

Member since
July 2003
From: Philippines

Posted by Dwight Ta-ala on Monday, May 17, 2004 7:32 PM

Future is basically an acrylic. So stay away from enamel-based or lacquer-based washes as it will eat away or react Future and might damage the paint beneath it.

I suggest you try watercolor wash (using artists' watercolors). Watercolor washes do not react with paint and can easily be removed if you make a mistake. Oil washes are also good.

On the color of the wash...you have to decide first whether in what location your tank is found as weathering is somewhat different relative to location. If you are doing a tank that is on a desert or relatively dry region, weathering may come in form of faded/chipped paint, lots of accumulated dust and minimal rust. On the other hand if you are considering an area which is prone to rains then weathering would come in form on accumulated dirt, rain streaks, chipped paint with rust, and dried up mud in specific areas.

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zokissima

Member since
July 2003
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Posted by zokissima on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 8:24 AM

Since you used future on your model, as Dwight pointed out, I'd stay away from anything NOT water based. So, you can either mix a wash out of acrylics, or even better, use artist's water colours. Come in a tube, just like oils.

I tend to apply my washes localized to every recessed and raised area of a model, most notably the edges of anything, leaving the flat spaces untouched. A drybrush after that finishes it all up nicely.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 8:38 AM

I vote for watercolors, you can get subtle effects because the pigmant is so fine, and as long as you don't put a topcoat over it, you can go back a week later and change it if necessary (when you find that perfect picture you wish you had 2 weeks earlier).

By the way, Welcome to the Darkside.

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chris hall

Member since
February 2004
From: Weymouth, Dorset, UK

Posted by chris hall on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 2:39 PM

Er, what's this about not using enamels or oils over Future? The whole point about Future (apart from being cheap, easy to apply, and quick-drying) is that it's an acrylic, and thus resistant to enamels and oils. Thus, unless you're really unsubtle with the thinner, enamel and/or oil washes are safe to use over Future.

Either that, or I've been very (and uniformly) lucky over the six years that I've been using enamel and oil washes over Future.

Chris.

Cute and cuddly, boys, cute and cuddly!

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Dwight Ta-ala

Member since
July 2003
From: Philippines

Posted by Dwight Ta-ala on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 6:20 PM

Well, Chris...Future is an acrylic based floor wax so it is more susceptible to react with enamel thinner or lacquer thinner than with water. Oil washes are OK as I have said. If you had used enamel washes for a long time now then you may want to tell us about the mixture that you are using. Should be a good tip for all of us.

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chris hall

Member since
February 2004
From: Weymouth, Dorset, UK

Posted by chris hall on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 12:49 AM

I use Humbrol matt enamels, and artists' turpentine as a thinner. For an enamel wash,I normally use between 5 and 7 parts turps to one part enamel, leave it for about 10 minutes, then wipe it off, if need be, with a clean cloth slightly dampened in turps. For 1/35 military vehicles, I invariably only use pin washes, but for 1/72, I use an overall wash, wiped off downwards. I leave the Future to cure for about 48 hours before applying the wash.

I've had much more success with enamel and oil washes over Klear than I have had with acrylic inks, but maybe I'll try the acrylic ink method with the new Airfix 1/72 Deuce-and-a-half that I've just bought. It's cheap enough to throw away if I mess up, and my LHS has stacks.

Chris

Cute and cuddly, boys, cute and cuddly!

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Dwight Ta-ala

Member since
July 2003
From: Philippines

Posted by Dwight Ta-ala on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 1:28 AM

Thanks for the info about the mix Chris. I might as well try it in the next work.

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