SOme different ideas for washs please?

I use Tamiya acrylics for the base coat, and then coat the whole thing in a couple of coats of future to get a bit of a sheen. Then I wash with oils, thinned about 1:10, with turps. Then I dullcoat. If I want the wash to discolour the base coat more, I wash without the future; it soaks into the flat surface more easily, but is hard to remove.

I do as 53ryder The oderles mineral spirit I use is called turpinod

When I apply 'washes' I make sure that they are of dis-similar base to the paint they are being put over. In other words, I have good results applying washes of oil paints (Grumbacher) thinned with odorless mineral spirits over Tamiya Acrylics. Often I apply a coat of clear lacquer over the base paint, Tamiya Acrylics, then apply the oil-based wash over the lacquer clear-coat. Either way I am happy with results.

If you apply a wash with a base the same as your underlying paint the two will most likely mix together and make a result you're sure to be unhappy with. You want your 'wash' to lie just on top of the base paint, and not mix into it. Just like 'oil and water'.

HTH
Glenn

QUOTE: Originally posted by Dwight Ta-ala I use the same as Lizardqing2 but I add a little water and dishwashing soap. Alcohol makes the drying of the wash a little too fast. Some water will help the wash stay wet for some time to enable you to wipe off the excess if necessary. Dishwashing soap akes the wash a little more flowable so it runs down quite easily and fast.

Knew I forgot something, I put a few drops of dishsoap in as well.

I use MM enamels for my base coats, usually apply future, put on decals, and seal the whole thing with Dullcoat before putting on my wash.

Normally mix my wash in a standard MM size glass bottle. I use a mix of about 6 - 12 drops of acylic black or burnt umber paint (depending on the darkness I'm looking for), mixed with enough water and liquid dish soap (Dove is my choosen brand since it's fairly clear) in a 50/50 ratio to fill the bottle. Yes, I said 50/50. The wash is fairly thick. I apply it where I want and let it dry nearly completely - usually 6 to 12 hours. Even after this amount of time, I can then take a Q-Tip or a brush moistened with plain old water and remove any wash that has gone where I don't want it or is to dark. If I really screw it up, all I have to do is soak the entire model in some water and 90% of the wash will just come off and I can start over.

Once the wash is just the way I want it, I'll let the model sit an additional 12 - 24 hours to dry completely, then seal the wash with another layer of Dullcoat.

I use the same as Lizardqing2 but I add a little water and dishwashing soap. Alcohol makes the drying of the wash a little too fast. Some water will help the wash stay wet for some time to enable you to wipe off the excess if necessary. Dishwashing soap akes the wash a little more flowable so it runs down quite easily and fast.

I use Tamiya acrylics, seal with a light coat of Future, and wash with watercolors.
Haven't had trouble yet and not only are the watercolor pigments finer and dry faster, but you can go back two days later and alter them, or remove 'em altogether until you've got the look you want.
This is Tamiya's 1/35 BMW. I basecoated with Dunkelgelb then painted the rest entirely with watercolors, including the tires, and sealed it with Future. It was a rush, but it works.

I use tamiya acrylics for base paint , then oil paint wash thinned by testors airbrush thinner . Make sure you use the opposite type of paint ( acylic vs. oil based )for washes that you used for your base paintjob and you should be all set.

I use acrylics thinned with alcohol for mine. Might not be the best option , but seems to work for me.