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Need some basecoat help!!!

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  • Member since
    February 2004
Need some basecoat help!!!
Posted by glock232 on Wednesday, June 16, 2004 9:12 PM
Hi gang!!
Been a while since i posted, but i just moved and finaly got my own hobby room / computer room. but anyways.. i dug some model kits i had stored in the attic out when i moved and i found a Tamiya Mobelwagen Kit, 3.7mm Flak. I am almost finished assembling the kit, and about ready to paint, but i need some help on a base coat. I have a lot of Tamiya acrylic military colors, and some W&N enamel paints. I have the future floor wax, and pretty much can get my hands on anything you recommend. I was told to do a basecoat do the whole thing in a darker color, then hilight the flat areas with a lighter shade? can someone give me the recipe for the basecoat, and the next layer???

i want to do a finish something like this one.....

http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/german/bomobel.htm
thanks in advance!!
Joe
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: SO CAL
Posted by cplchilly on Wednesday, June 16, 2004 9:43 PM
I usually paint it in the base color lightened appropriately for the scale, usually 10-20%. Then I use a dark wash of burnt umber heavily thinned so it will flow, then let it dry a couple of days then if I like it I seal it with dullcoat then after a couple of days then I start drybushing. I start with the base color then I go lighter each time I start again and I also use a less agressive brush stroke each time I start a new coat.Tongue [:P]
[img]http://members.fcc.net/ice9/badge.jpg
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Wednesday, June 16, 2004 9:52 PM
Cplchilly is politically correct, however I don't lighten my basecoat and I think from what I heard few others do also. Not to say his is wrong, I'm just lazy and don't think the average person would know any better. I would go with Tamiya's Dark Yellow which is a close match for Dunelgelb. Then follow Cpls. weathering techniques. I'd also do a tri-color pattern of Dark Green Tamiya XF61 and Red Brown XF64. Many members use future before applying decals than weather followed by a dull coat.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    December 2009
  • From: West Grove, PA
Posted by wildwilliam on Thursday, June 17, 2004 6:30 AM
i am one of the few that lightens the base coat first.
i feel it gives me a bit more leeway to use an overall wash w/o darkening the kit too much.
i don't think i am 'right' it's just what i am comfortable w/.
you will find your own favorite way too.

i am w/ the guys on the washes - but a word of warning!
if you are not familiar w/ washes - search the forum on the topic as it comes up quite a bit.
the thing to make sure of is that you use a was that is a different TYPE from your base coat.
so you can use an oil wash over acrylics, or an acrylic wash over enamel, or a water
thinned wash over most anything.
but you don't want to put a wash that is 95% Tamiya Acrylic thinner down over Tamiya Acrylic paint!
the results are somewhat predictable! hello bare plastic!

there are some who say they 'do it all the time; just let the paint cure'
but not for me, thanks!
i use water-colors over my acrylics, a lot of guys use oils.
if you decide on water colors,
put in a drop of dish soap to break the water's surface tension and help flow.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posted by zokissima on Thursday, June 17, 2004 8:29 AM
I've never lightened my basecoat, but the one and only time I've used Tamiya OD, I wish I had, as it was ridiculously dark.
Anywhoo, I would just go with Tamiya Dark Yellow for your base coat straight out of the jar. If you want to add variance to the shades, you could try a technique called 'preshading'. Basically, spray all the crevices, panel lines, corners, edges, etc in flat black, so that you effectively spray just the 'frame' (for lack of a better term). Over this spray your basecoat, but in light layers, allowing the preshaded colour to show through slightly. If you've never done this before, I strongly suggest practicing a few times on scrap first.

i use water-colors over my acrylics, a lot of guys use oils.[/quote[
I use Grumbacher artist's water-colours. They work just great.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, June 17, 2004 8:46 AM
To add to Wildwilliam, I am a oil wash guy... I just like the fine grain of oils and the ease of use. He his dead right about using the same medium for wash as base paint. IF i am using a enamal (rare for me) base coat I will apply a heavy acrylic gloss and dull coat for the decals which acts as a barrier when it comes time to weather. Also some thinners are more potent than others... try a couple of different types. I sometimes preshade on German stuff but I find with the three color schemes the effect is lost by the time all the paint is on. It works quite well for a single color scheme though... Look in the Missing-Lynx Articles section under raraties... It has some magnificent weathering tips by Miguel Gimminez

Good luck pal and keep us posted...
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Thursday, June 17, 2004 12:56 PM
Actually, some nice effects can be had using an oil wash over an enamel base and letting the wash strip a little of the base color off. I've gotten a few nice rust streaks this way. But you really have to be careful to not wind up with bare plastic, as was said. For most weathering, I do the oils over acrylics or acrylics over enamels method. It's safer.
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
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