white paint

Having been a 'car guy' for many years, doing two-toned paint jobs or white interiors, I always found white was a bit of a challenge. Usually I air-brushed white lacquer over medium-grey primer. It took numerous light coats but eventually the grey was covered adequately. Be patient. Another problem you may find, like I did often when spraying light colors, is that any speck of dust or dirt or even hair will show up like a sore thumb requiring you to touch-up to hide that dark speck of whatever.Although with armor you may just hide that sore spot in 'plain view' by weathering over it. Have patience and practice on some spare piece of plastic.

HTH
Glenn

I try to stay away from hand brushing white if I can. I almost always use MM Acryl and spray it over a light gray primer. As to your tracks, the only parts of them that should be exposed metal are the end connectors and the center guides. The rest of the track block should be black rubber. Carefully dry brush the end connectors and center guides with gun metal then again even lighter with steel. I did a set of tracks for a Stug III with some burnt iron and I thought the color was too orange.

I am usually an acrylic paint user, until it comes to the color white.
For handbrushing, I found Humbrol White Enamel to be the best for coverage and not being transparent. For airbrushing, I am sold on Tamiya.

Dan

Hey there, I a plane builder but like to come over to the tank guys and hang out sometimes. I use white alot and my only advice, no matter what medium you are using or carrier, allow AT LEAST 24 hours drying time in between, Enamals or Laqcuers 48 hours. It's the best way to make sure you get "white".

-Jeff

Welcome to the forums! White is the hardest color to paint and airbrush. You have to make sure that your paint is mixed up pretty well. Are you painting acrylic, laqour, or enamial white? I use exclusively acrylics and my advice is that you shouldn't dilute white paint down when you brush. Some modelers like to dilute paints when they handbrush them, which is ok, but for white, don't dilute it unless it's thick and starts to get gooey. It will take a couple coats, but it's worth it. If you can't get white to show good, then there's a paint I use to simulate white, but it's actually a light grey and brushes on way better that white. It's Model Master Acrylic camoflauge grey. It's almost white, but doesn't act like white paint when painting it, but when it's dry it looks like white. I'll try to get a picture up of what this grey looks like when dry.

As for the tracks, I would paint them black and let them dry one day, then drybrush them burt iron or alluminum. Hope it helps!