AAAARRRRRGGGGG

THANKS ALL, I have resolved myself that it's OK not to use all the photo etch, so I am going to use screens , fenders, and exhaust covers and be happy with that. I will save the rest and maybe tackle it again. Although I am going to keep trying but with simple bits and pieces and hopefully get better over time:)

John, I always start out saying I'm going to use a whole PE set, but then I cry uncle and end up using about half of it most of the time. That usually happens right after launching some important tiny part into the black hole of PE sets. Just remember to build for yourself. If it it's good enough to you, it's good enough.

RE: Aber PE. I have found that the only thing that works with PE is;

1) Good references. I mean photo's from all angles, of the area that is covered by the PE. I only rely on the printed sheets that come with the PE, for folding, call numbers etc.

2) Good tweezers. I have 5 different tweezers, with two of them coming out of medical kits I got a different gun shows in the past. They need to have FLAT holding surfaces, to hold/bend the PE.

3) PATENCE! You need to slow down, as trying to finish a whole tank covered in PE in one evening is CRAZY! You are not working on an assembly line, but trying to model a given subject. Go slow, and take lots of breaks.

Example, I am just finishing a M1A1 Abrams, and this kit has taken me almost one year to do. Lots of pict's from the net, and lots of time examining each one, for placement of PE, etc. Get as many views of the same area as possible, then plan your model accordingly. Work on only one area each day, evening, whatever, and check your references, for position, location, etc.

I think Aber has great PE, and I prefer to work with this company. Eduard also makes great PE, and sometimes I combine each companies PE kits on one subject. (Like your tiger ... I have done this kit with both Aber's and Eduard's PE kit on it.)

Work Slow = Great results!

Rob Savage

I admire anyone who builds those teeny pe sets, but I still wonder why sometimes. For the most part the better companies do a fine representation of the basic model. Why pay more in AM parts than the kit itself? Naturally in most cases something probably needs to be redone, for no kit is perfect. Just my HO.

I don't have that kit for my early Tiger, I ordered or received the wrong one, the late Aber doesn't include that piece.
If it's scalloped and the length of the hull, it belongs in the joint between the horizontal and vertical portions behind the roadwheels. I personally wouldn't worry too much about it, if it's too much trouble, it would be hard to see, especially when that Tiger is on the go.

I only ended up using the screens, cable and tool clamps. I found it easier to glue the bottom of the clamp parts in place, then assemble from there. Remember, this is the modeling equivalent of neurosurgery.

yea it's nuts, the directions seem a little vague ? I am new to this though. one thing that is puzzling me is there are 2 pieces about 7-8inches long, thin and jagged like a saw blade that go above the road wheels and in the Aber pic it looks easy but the kit piece is not straight like it looks in the aber book?????

Aber can do that to you John. It takes a good bit of practice and even more patience. If you've got some specifics, holler and we'll try to give you tips.

There's also a condition called photoetch poisioning. It's rampant!! I have it!

Eric