I need your help with dusting pastels

QUOTE: Originally posted by ABARNE The main thing to remember is to not go overboard. It is better to need two or three applications rather than trying to figure out how to undo an excessive application.

I also agree that after applying pastels... it is better keep hands off the model.

In addition to all the other excellent comments, sometimes it is just a matter of 'over doing' the initial application, with the understanding that the sealing process will tone things down quite a bit. This is particularly true if applying light colors over a dark base. Depending on the surfaces, sometimes you can use a Q-tip to kind of scrub the chalk into the surface.

The main thing to remember is to not go overboard. It is better to need two or three applications rather than trying to figure out how to undo an excessive application.

John,

The artist pastels I use are harder square sticks. I don't grind the sticks but instead use a stiff bristled brush to get a fine powder on the surface and then apply it dry where needed for panel lines, rivet heads, etc. and follow behind it with a soft round sable brush to remove the extra. Artist pastels aren't too expensive, relatively speaking, my 12-stick set of earth tones cost about $20 and a little goes a very long way.

I also use the MMP weathering powders for broad weathering in combination with the artist pastels.

Weathering for me is a 4 stage process after applying a sealing dull coat on the enamel paint: 1) use preshading with the basecoat 2) apply chips/scratches where needed 3) apply pastels 4) use MMP weathering for dust/dirt effect in wet washes and dry dust combinations depending on desired effect/result.

At the end of this process, the individual steps are all tied together for the finished result. I experimented with several different approaches and found those to be the best for my purposes. Everyone has their own style and approach and you too will develop your own.

Hi MO....yep I know but the basic technique and mixing is similar however....

I also use the MMPs ....but normaly I only use the pastels for limmited spot work...to much hassel grinding (Im lazey !) and big lumps that can contain traces of other colours to risk it for me...:)

I also let everything dry first and use Iso/water mix of 95/5% iso/water...to allow the added adhesive to stick the powders to the surface....when using any powder dry I nearly always breathe heavy onto the surface to add a little moisture...find it helps a lot

AJ

DON'T use the oil ones...nasty for our work....IF you use pastels use only the hard dry sticks....still they do not worl=k as well as specialist weathering powder types that you can get via model shops and on line...

AJ

Ali1kj that article is for MMP Powders which is a bit different then straight pastels. I know Gerard the site owner and maker of the powders. MMP Powders are more a pigment and adhere a bit easier then pastels. MMP Powders are along the lines of MIG's weathering pigments. I use both MMP Powders and Pastels, but will use Pastels more often then not. I have never had a problem with them fading or rubbing off. I never use Dull coats on my models as I add just a touch of Tamiya Clear to my paint mixtures and weather with filters and washes for my dull effect. When using pastels I will try and get most of my pastel work done while the model is going through a drying period after an overall wash has been applied.

Cheers

Mo

QUOTE: A distinction should be made between ordinary pastel chalk and artist oil pastel chalk.

arent oil pastels the round greasy ones? can those be made into powder? i got the chalk ones, figures now gotta spend more $ [:0] this hobby is getting expensive

A distinction should be made between ordinary pastel chalk and artist oil pastel chalk. Big difference between the two. The artist chalk will naturally adhere because it's actually an oil pigment as opposed to ground up chalk dust. Both will darken if applied with a dull coat but the artist pastel will not come off nearly as easy as ordinary chalk, meaning you can handle the model more without disturbing the finish or needing a sealer coat. Any artist supply store will carry them as does Hobby Lobby. They last a long time and come in a variety of colors. The earth tones are particularly useful.

http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/articlepub/WW_article/whitewash_fin.htm
Great art on techniques

AJ

Foster7155 , thanks for the advice. I am going to give the wet method a shot:)

Thus the paradox of pastels...

You didn't do anything wrong. In fact, I would guess that nearly every modeler tries shooting dull coat after they've applied pastels and discovers what you did.

You really have two options with pastels. You can go for a subtle effect and apply light coats of various pastels to your model. This is usually done over a dull coat because the pastels adhere a little better. Then, you leave it alone...don't touch it, don't spray anything on it, just let it sit and admire it. Eventually, the pastels might start to fade or be blown away or rubbed off. If needed, you just apply a little more.

Your other option is a more severe effect. You can dampen your brush with a little (or a lot of) alcohol as you apply the pastels and they will adhere to the model almost like paint. Unforetunately, it is very easy to over do it and end up with way more pastel coloring than you were looking for (I've done it). When you apply the pastels in this way, over spraying the model with dull coat won't have nearly the same effect as dry applications do, but you will still see a slight moderation of the pastels nonetheless.

Practice with both of these techniques and you will eventually discover the right combination for you. Nothing is funnier than watching a bunch of modelers at a serious competition as they hover over their models with a make-up brush in one hand and a bottle of pastel dust in the other. Funny, but also very easy to understand. Nothing will bring an armor model to life quite as much as that final light pastel dusting.

Hope this helps.

Enjoy your modeling...