Eduard Accessories

I'll just "ditto" all that's been said and add that you need to use a high quality super glue to make sure the parts don't "disappear" from your model.

the best thing is to go to their web site , there you will find alot of info about them, for that go to the INFO secton. You can also find out if they have it for the model you want and a preview of their manual or wathever you call it.

THE SITE IS[bule]www.eduard.cz[/blue]
Good luck and welcome back!!!!!!!!

I am working with my first set of Eduard accessories. Here are a few things I have noticed.

1. The sets are extensive. The include huge numbers of very tiny parts like latches and hinges.

2. You have to be VERY careful. The sheets bend easily, and since they are brass if you crimp a piece you can't really fix it.

3. I will echo the words of others who say you probably won't use all of the parts. Some of the pieces are so small I can barely pick them up, much less put them on properly.

4. I haven't finished the model but so far they seem to be worth the money. I will be very interested to see what it all looks like.
They aren't that expensive so I would say buy one and give it a shot.

That makes perfect sense. I live in a very very humid area. So probly it would be best to prime everything first. But everything everyone has said has helped alot

thanks to everyone

Actually, some people insisit on PRIMING a model
if it contains any metal parts (see, for example, Tony
Greenland's book). It seems, though, that priming is
really necessary if you have metal parts that can
rust/corrode with age, for example lead foil.
You should be aware about what your particular
photoetch (PE) set is made of and how easily this
material can be corroded.

I've accidentally performed a little experiment on one of my
models that had lots of ABER PE stuff (this one is made of
brass which is a very common PE material) on it. I've washed
it with soapy water to remove finger oil and prepare it for
painting and then had to abandon it for nearly a month.
After getting back to it I noticed that my PE pieces had no
corrosion whatsoever and skipped the priming (which was
IMHO a good thing, I was afraid that primer will "thicken up"
some very delicate PE parts like engine exhaust meshes).
After airbrushing the model with Gunze acrylics I really
can not tell anymore which parts are plastic and which PE.

I would say that probably in most cases it should be safe to
paint over PE without priming. But if you want to be extra safe
or are using some offbeat metals in construction you should
prime first.

Agggrrrr.... Does this make any sense at all? :)

Serge

I have had no problems painting the PE that I have used though the paint will chip off of it much easier than the plastic. I treat it just like any other part that I work with. Glue it on and spray it, I've had good luck so far.

Ok now I have a better understanding of what they are used for. So they are only used for detailing. OK I have another question. If their brass then how easy are they to paint? Or better yet does anybody know a good site that I could get some info on detail modeling.

adws

Just remember, because they give you a photo etch part, doesn't mean you have to use it. Many of the round grab handles on a tank are replicated as flat pieces in the PE sets. Bent pieces of wire or solder will work much better.

Eduard makes fairly comprehensive sets and are the number one maker in terms of variety. Their stuff is generally geared towards a specific model, for example, a different PE set for the Tamiya T-55, Esci T-55 or Skif T-55. They also make some generic sets that can be used on any kits. Since they are the largest, people always like to take shots at their products.

Aber sets are so complete that many of the sets contain working hinges and latches that a watchmaker would have problems with. They tend to stay along WW2 stuff, but do have other eras as well. Most people do not use all the Aber PE pieces in one set.

Other PE makers are Part, ExtraTech, Airwaves, On the Mark as well as some model companies like AFV Club and Tamiya, who make sets for their own kits.

HI,
Quite all was said ! Just want to add 2 others brands:
ABER and a new one : ROAR from China !

James: Sorry 'bout the not so helpful reply.
Thanks for the expansion Robert, after reading my post I realize that it is quite inadequate and I should have gone into more depth.

Verlinden also offers complete resin interiors for armour.

They are photo-etched brass sheets of parts that are generally too thick on the original plastic model. ie: fenders, screens, brush guards. I have used them on a number of kits that I have built and find them to improve the quality of the finished project. Some of these sheets are rather extensive, but one thing that I have found is that I will only use the parts that will improve the finished model.

Detailing interiors, engine bays etc. I have never used them (yet) but I hear they're excellent.

There are no stupid questions; just stupid people that don't ask questions.