75mm in less than a day (pics work)

your right, I have DSL and that took forever to load.

Other wise the model looks good! Very cool camo. The only thing I would like to say though is that the figures could use a little bit of touching up in some areas.

and a couple of last questions-
Will you be making a base for it?
and How long did it take you to build? Think its possible to build in a weekend?

keep up the good work. I look foreward to more!

howd u do that? i couldnt get it
do u like them?

to post pics thi is what you do- its a bit confusing at first-



but notice after the gs there is a space, when you want to post a picture there should be no spaces.

Now you wonder, howd I get that link. Well, just right click on the pic you want, scroll down to properties and click it. you will see a web address inside of the box. Highlight it, copy it and then paste it in between here .

and you will get it


hope this helps. Want me to do the rest?

Woops, just realized my stupid question

It took about 12 hrs.

its for my diorama that im making with some other kits, thanks, first try at semi-detailing and didnt quite get the hang of it yet

Scer16,
very good, esp for the short time you used!
that is a nice little kit. i built one for the towed gun GB a few months back.
looks like we liked the same camo!

i realize you did not ask for suggestions, but i will make 2 anyway.
there was a thread recently on the ettiquette of this, and i am probably breaking
rule #1. please do not take offense.

the tires on that gun are either 3 piece rubber, or very deeply grooved rubber.
either way, you should work up your favorite mix for rubber
(flat black w/ some grey & brown is mine) and do them w/ that.

on the assembly side, your barrel is showing its seam across the top.
kit barrels are tricky w/ this. if you use tube glue or liquid cement, give the
glue time to harden (i wait until the next day w/ Tamiya Extra Thin)
then you can gently scrape the seam w/ the back or a #11 (Exacto) blade.
be careful not to carve a flat spot.
then if you take a piece of sandpaper or film and wrap it around the barrel
you can spin the barrel inside the paper. this should finish the barrel to
a nice smooth, round shape.
the muzzle break you can use the back of the blade and
gentle application of a sanding stick to work it out.

my other comment is on the photo, particularly, the size.
if you are using a digital camera, check the image quality setting.
my camera defaults to a much 'better' setting than is needed for
posting to the net. check yours and try the lowest or 2nd lowest setting
and see if they are adequate. you could also reduce the image size
by cropping it or resizing it w/ photo manipulation software
(but i realize you may not have any software that will do this)

thanks, i thought when ever someone posted, people posted their thoughts, i guess i shouldve said comments?
the other pics arent that weird looking though

Hi and welcome. That was my first Tamiya kit many a moon ago. I like the camo also. In addition to Ed's comments, the figures should be painted Feldgrau, which is kind of a grey-green. Nice to see your work and hope to see some more.

its for my diorama thats going to be in tunisia and thanks!

well, some folks want comments/criticism/suggestions and some don't.
there was a thread that delved into this topic, and the biggest points seemed to be
that the people posting are of different levels,
and it is important that we all enjoy the hobby.
some people said they never 'criticize' unless someone asks,
others say they don't even then, as they have been 'reprimanded'
for doing so. some of us feel that we should all be helping each other
improve our builds, and so on.

the important thing is that no one feels 'intimidated' or 'picked on'.
and we should lay off 'rivet counting' unless some one asks for a rivet check. :-)

there were also some members who felt that we were helping no one
by just saying 'great job' when there was room for improvement
(or serious flaws) and maybe we were just trying to pad our post counts.

anywho, i went to the page w/ the other pics, and i have a suggestion for the figures too.
:-)
you can use the "back of the hobby knife" technique to gently scrape the mold parting
lines on various pieces. the figures in this kit are 'blessed' w/ lintes that run down the sides of the pants, arms and through at least one of the crew's face - right down the nose & chin. there are also lines on the canteen, gas mask container, etc.
this is a function of the old molds for this kit. so it's not something you have done,
it's more like something you have to un-do.
when you remove each part from the sprue, look for the parting lines.
they will run along the axis of the sprue frame.
if you picture the mold enclosing the sprue like two sheets of paper,
one above the pieces and one below as they lay flat on your bench,
the lines will usually be where the paper's edges would be.
(for a 2 piece mold, anyway)
i try to clean up each piece as soon as i remove it from the sprue,
sanding the pour stub attachment spots and scraping the mold parting lines.
it is a bit of a drag, but it improves the look greatly.
also remember, on pieces like the crew, the line is on BOTH sides (inside & outside)
of each arm & leg.

sorry to go on & on.
i will pipe down now!

Ed,

Admit it, you're just padding your post count!

Joking aside, that's a pretty good explanation of seam lines and how they come about. Always a necessary evil, especially with older kits, that can be un-done with a little care and attention. Nothing more aggravating than to get down to a finished product, take the pics felling nice an happy that you are done, only to see a seam line pop out in some unreachable place like the grand canyon in the photo...

Scer,

Nice work on the camo and quick time on the build. The others have given you some good suggestions so I've got nothing else to add on that front. Thanks for sharing your work with us!

lol, thanks
the darker color is a mix of gray and black, i cant even tell the difference between that and my gray :(