Modelkasten Tiger II tracks. Lots of pics. 2 more pics added

Hi Monrad,

Thanks for the outstanding pictures and directions. I was just looking for good workable tracks for a couple of my Tigers. Have you ever worked with Fuilmodel tracks?
I was wondering if they were metal instead of plastic. Which are the best?

Okieboy

Very cool walkthrough and illustrations monrad. I've always been curious though as to the advantages, perceived or otherwise, to having workable tracks on a static model. I can see their value in replacing rubber band tracks but what are the advantages vs. indys if any?

1st. Friul vs. Modelkasten. Hmm I guess its a matter of what you like. They are both good, I prefer Modelkasten because I like working with plastic.

2nd. advantages of workable tracks. The big andvantage is if you want to use the model in a diorama, because the tracks will follow the shape of the ground. Also when you have assembled workable tracks, you can paint them and then put them aside until you need them. Indy links are glued together, and I simply find them harder to work with. Again its a matter of what you like. I tried a bit of everything, and I prefer Modelkasten, others may have a different preference.

Outstanding lesson in alternative track options. You should be a sales rep for them.

Can you tell me how much are those tracks.
Thanks a lot. I like your pics!

I don't know what the price will be in the USA, but here in Denamrk they are a bit pricey, they cost almost the same as the tank it self, but its the same with Friulmodelisimo tracks.

I checked out some Modelkasten tracks at www.bentbutnotbroken.com and they charge about $42-$45 (US dollars) for a set of workable Tiger I tracks.

I asked about the workable tracks because I've got Tamiya's 1/35 R/C Tiger I. It came with those danged rubber tracks and I hate them. I plan to pull it off the shelf once my big projects are done and make some modifications. Maybe a new paint scheme and some new tracks.

Okieboy

QUOTE: Originally posted by okieboy I checked out some Modelkasten tracks at www.bentbutnotbroken.com and they charge about $42-$45 (US dollars) for a set of workable Tiger I tracks. I asked about the workable tracks because I've got Tamiya's 1/35 R/C Tiger I. It came with those danged rubber tracks and I hate them. I plan to pull it off the shelf once my big projects are done and make some modifications. Maybe a new paint scheme and some new tracks. Okieboy

Do NOT use modelkasten tracks for a R/C model, they are not strong enough, if you want tracks for a R/C model you should go for Friulmodelisimo tracks, they are much stronger.

I have a set of Tiger I tracks and was amazed at how much simpler they are than the stinkin ones for my Stug III C/D. Those took forever, single pins and open horns. But in the end a very impressive item.

Thanks for the info, I will use it when I strat my tiger soon.

Ted

I prefer ModelKasten over Fruil as well. The only advantage Fruil has over MK in my opinion is that there is 10 times less clean up. Each Model Kasten track link is molded to a sprue unlike Fruil's which come seperated, with a little cleanup. But I will say that working with MK's Tiger I tracks can be a little frustrating as you need to attach each track tooth as well.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Moses But I will say that working with MK's Tiger I tracks can be a little frustrating as you need to attach each track tooth as well.

Yep, I have 3 sets of Tiger I tracks that I have to finish aswell, and those guide horns can be a pain in the a$$, but worth the effort if you ask me.

Whew, thanks Monrad. Those things aren't cheap and I would have been seriously ticked off after all that money and work to discover their weakness.

Okie

I love Modelkastens... Great pics of the assembly.

EDIT: I wish I had a set for my sturmtiger....
.

wow. they look incredible. just incredible.

joe

This sounds like a great thread Monrad. My problem is I can't see the pictures, and this subject is one I've been trying to learn as much as I can on. Maybe they will show on my computer later, sounds like you did a great job illustrating start to finish. Thanks for posting an interesting thread. semper fi, mike

Sorry that you can't see the pics Mike, I can mail them to you if you like.

Thats ok Monrad. For some reason some of the pics are starting to show on my computer. I've run into this before, but I'm still fairly new to computers so I really haven't figured out an explanation for it yet. Regardless, I enjoyed the thread, and as I said it's a topic I'm interested in for future builds. Thanks for your knowledge and sharing. semper fi, mike

Ok; just shoot me a mail if you want any of the pics in a mail.

Word to the wise on MK tracks , once painted they break apart , and not in just one place , sometimes many , after my jagdtiger set ( almost identicle to the above ) I will not be using anything but fruil again or wwII productions tracks ( you can't find these anywhere however in the usa) The Mk tracks are really nice to look at , nice thin and accurate , but they are truelly frustrating after paint , the side pins are just too short period !

I have to disagree with you there, I have used them a couple of times now, and I have NEVER had any serious problems ..... period !!

I've tried pulling the ones on the pics and they can take quite alot before they brake apart, not enough to use them on R/C models but more than enough for static display.

How many sets of Modelkasten tracks have you built ??? 1 ??
I have built 5, not much but still. I had some trouble with the first one, but now I just make sure that ALL the pins are FULLY inserted, and I haven't had any trouble since.

Yes they are nice looking tracks, but I myself, just can't pay the price of a new kit for them. Just my

Your tracks look real good.
mark956

QUOTE: Originally posted by tigerman Yes they are nice looking tracks, but I myself, just can't pay the price of a new kit for them. Just my

I hear you on that tigerman...I build static models for display only and would have a hard time justifying their cost, especially if the kit comes with indy links to begin with ala Dragon. Some of the older Tamiya kits have inaccuracies in their rubber-band tracks that might lead me to replace them with Tamiya or Academy indys, but those run about $15 a set, very different from the MK or Fruils.

QUOTE: Originally posted by spector822002 Word to the wise on MK tracks , once painted they break apart ...

What kind of paint did you use? The reason I ask is that I remember a Sherman article by Bob Colligon in FSM a few years back, and he encountered a similar problem. After applying a wash to his tracks, most of the connectors on one track were attacked by the solvents in the wash and broke. He said he then had to brass pin them. I have no idea what brand of tracks he used, but the symptoms described seem identical. I'm wondering whether the problem would be avoided by using acrylic paints?

Monrad: yes I have built just one set , and the pins were fully inserted . had they been any more inserted they would have been on the other side . If I buy an aftermarket anything and have a bad experience with it , I don't buy it again , isn't that the definition of insanity ? Doing the same thing twice and expecting different results ? Perhaps the solution I use for wash attacked the pins , but to be honest I have used it with all my other models parts with no such result of plastic damage , I use humbrol thinner for the wash base , pretty mild compared to testors . These Mk sets cost around 30dollars here they should be a bit more durable than that , and I would not use them for anything but a static model as that is all I have . I have built around 10 sets of fruils and they come out great everytime , are much easier to build and sag like no tomorrow. I am not knocking your tracks here , if they are your preference and you get good results , well thats great ,Mk tracks look fantastic when done , they are fiddly mind you but they look great , and they have a certain scale thickness that most others do not have , they just look right . However one really has to wonder do scale pins apply to small styrene ? I think it would be similar to trying to hold the real track together with a lead pin!

I am sorry you had such a bad experience with Modelkasten tracks, I have only had good experiences with them, I guess it all boils down to what we prefer. I prefer plastic over white metal because I don't like to work with white metal, others, like you, see it differently, and thats good. Friulmodelisimo tracks looks great, I just prefer plastic.
Like I said, its a matter of preferences.

Hey BTW did that track jig come with your kit ? My set did not have that included . Also the JT set had twice as many single pins as the doubles you had , do you have a lot of singles as well ? ALL: These (fruil , modelkasten, wwII etc)aftermarket tracks can be pricey for sure in my opinion the end result is worth it on all accounts , the sag you get from them is unmatched by the kit supplied tracks , this is due to the fact that they are workable , Fruils even have the weight factor , I have no idea how one would go about simulating russian armor sag without them . If you have not tried this type of indy perhaps you should not , they are very addictive and depleting on the bank account . ( and with fruil you can make your girlfriend or wife a nice tennis bracelet with the leftovers )

Yes the jig came with the kit, all modelkasten Tiger tracks should have one, if yours didn't then that was a mistake from the factory, and the jig makes the assembly process alot easier, maybe it can explain some of your problems, not all but some.
And yes I have ALOT of single pins aswell.

Ok one more question , what type of paint do you use for the base weathering etc on these , I am pretty sure that the wash did a number on them when I applied it , in fact I know it , because they fell apart just after . Perhaps when I want a challenge , I may give it a shot again . ( perhaps I am insane )