Preparing kits and other questions

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 28, 2004 10:31 AM

Only problem is, when I look at the instructions on the eduard site, there are alot of things to be repaced that I've already done. And if anything scares me more than PE it's scratchbuilding Wink [;)]

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Saturday, August 28, 2004 8:32 AM

hmmm...odd. There is a phone number for them under contact

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 27, 2004 9:58 PM

Well, I found it, but when I create an account and try to add it to my cart, it won't let me log in!

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Friday, August 27, 2004 9:48 PM

Eduard does> Go to Greatmodels.com, use their "cross reference" and you can view all things they have for the III

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 27, 2004 9:40 PM

I'll just ask another quetion here, does anyone know who makes a PE set for the Dragon Panzer III J? the engine grills NEED PE for them to look any good.

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Friday, August 27, 2004 8:46 PM

That is what I eas referring to. The M apparently has them in a slightly different location. Unfortunately, removing the old stump is impossible to do without damaging the tread plate. Kind of frustrating actually- I would have preferred them not have put any stump and have yo glue it on instead.

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 27, 2004 8:37 PM

Nope, there was no headlight base attached, unless you're talking about the smaller lights on the sides of the upper hull, but those I didn't sand off, I just glued the lights onto the stump thing already there.

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Friday, August 27, 2004 7:38 PM

Great- I will keep a look out for it. Question for you- did the J kit require you to sand off the old headlight base and glue on a different in another place? The M did, which caused the treadplate detail to be lost. I ended up having to sand the entire plate off and replace it with a photo-etch replacement

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 27, 2004 7:32 PM

Thanks alot for all the help guys! I'll probably post some progress pics on my Panzer III, I did a ton on it today.

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Friday, August 27, 2004 7:09 PM

That's how I build them. The top I try to get so it goes all the way down to the road wheels. You could break it up into smaller sections if you want, I am sure there are quite a few methods.

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 27, 2004 7:06 PM

Got the pictures, It's a deceptively simple thing isn't it? Just to clear up one thing, did you say that i should build them in 2 pices, the top and bottom?

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Friday, August 27, 2004 3:11 PM

I e-mailed you the pics of my home-made jig and my Panther and Pz III. LEt me know if you get them. By the way, I looked back at my Pz III instructions and I think I see what you were reffering too, but mine had 5 per side. The look to be some locating tabs for another varient. If they are what I am seeing, they should appear to be a raised outline of a rectangle. I trimmed mine down to almost the surface with a sharp knife and then sanded it smooth

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 27, 2004 2:22 PM

Yeah I'd like a set, but it wont send to your AOL account, do you use your MSN account?

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Moses

Member since
February 2003
From: Long Island

Posted by Moses on Friday, August 27, 2004 1:54 PM

Manik, I never recieved your email. Do you want the Vinyl Tracks for the Panzer III? Like I said, I have so many sets of Vinyl, Dragon Indy and Tamiya indy tracks becuase I never use them.

"ZIM FIRST, ASK QUESTIONS LATER!!"

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 27, 2004 12:55 PM

yep I got your e-mail, thanks for the help, I'd like some pictures too whenever you can send them.

And BTW I meant the Panzer III (I'm working on it untill the GB starts)

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Friday, August 27, 2004 11:41 AM

Let me know here if you didn't get my e-mail, by the way. It has been eorking odd lately

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Friday, August 27, 2004 11:03 AM

The Panther or the Pz III? If it is the PzIII, I don't know. I did the M/N version, and I don't remember that. Usually what Dragon does is puts parts in from an earlier kit. Some of the other versions do not have some of the features, so you either have to cut them off or sand them off.

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 27, 2004 10:56 AM

I've got another question, directed at the people who've built the kit, when on the second step, it asks you to cut out 8 rectangular pieces from the edge of the lower hull, what are these for and how do I remove them?

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 27, 2004 9:17 AM

When preparing kit parts, I wear thin, white cotton gloves--the kind museum curators wear when handling artifacts. Eliminates the problem of greasy fingerprints. Also helps to wash you hands with a strong soap.

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Friday, August 27, 2004 8:50 AM

Oh, by the way- Moses is right- the Late G is a lot easier to build. I finished that one a few months ago and it went together very nicely. The Dragon III is a lot more challenging, but builds into a very nice tank

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Friday, August 27, 2004 8:48 AM

Check your e-mail, Manik. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I will get you some pics this weekend

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 26, 2004 8:08 PM

did it work?

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Moses

Member since
February 2003
From: Long Island

Posted by Moses on Thursday, August 26, 2004 7:15 PM

Manik.. try again, my email is justaskmoses@aol.com

There was a period at the end of it.

"ZIM FIRST, ASK QUESTIONS LATER!!"

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 26, 2004 6:03 PM

the email you posted doesn't work

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Moses

Member since
February 2003
From: Long Island

Posted by Moses on Thursday, August 26, 2004 4:50 PM

1) I wash my kit after it is built, becuase the oils of your skin are going to dirty it anyway when you build it.

2) Tamiya's Panther G Late is a much easier build.

3) I have a 2 sets of Panzer III Vinyl Tracks from Tamiya's Panzer III L, email me your address and I can send them to you. My email is justaskmoses@aol.com. Only other suggestion is to use Fruil Tracks or ModelKasten Workables.

4) I prime in either Tamiya Acrylic Flat White and preshade with Black or Prime in PolyScale Black. I always prime regardless if I use Photoetched or not.

5) Doesn't matter, all depends on what you intend to do. I would use the Panzer Grey only if you want to chip your Dunkelgelb up. I suggest a straight Dark Yellow and you can add chips. I use Vallejo Black Grey or Humbrol Matt 33 to simulate chipping.

Cheers

Mo

"ZIM FIRST, ASK QUESTIONS LATER!!"

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JWest21

Member since
December 2002
From: PA

Posted by JWest21 on Thursday, August 26, 2004 4:28 PM

Those indie tracks aren't as bad as they look. I just did the PzIII. As long as you have a jig to keep them straight (tape a ruler to the table), its not bad. Email me if you want more detailed instructions. My panzer pic is under the thread Toilet Panzer from a few days back

Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry

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wbill76

Member since
July 2004
From: Texas

Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, August 26, 2004 4:16 PM

I use MM Enamel Rust as the basecoat as it's the closest approximation I've been able to find to the primer color.

BP Models

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 26, 2004 4:04 PM

whats the best colour and make for the primer?

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wbill76

Member since
July 2004
From: Texas

Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, August 26, 2004 4:00 PM

1. Some people wash sprues with a mild detergent in order to remove any mold release agents still on the plastic. I personally have never done this with any of my kit builds.

2. Haven't built either kit but the Tamiya will likely be the easier build since it has rubber-band tracks.

3. No idea, can't help you there. Big Smile [:D]

4. Pre-shading in black is a step some use to acheive shadowing and variation in the basecoat coloring. It's up to you on how you achieve this effect, either with pre-shading, post-shading, washes, etc.

5. If you are doing a 1943 onward Pz III, the correct scheme would be Red Oxide primer with a Dark Yellow basecoat over it.

HTH and good luck with your GB!

BP Models

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