making faded panel lines

You can spray (with an airbrush!) a lighter shade of whatever color is on the model, or you can work with artist's oils (again using lighter shades) and some good brushes to achieve the same kind of effect.

ho wu do that?

QUOTE: Originally posted by djmodels1999 You can spray (with an airbrush!) a lighter shade of whatever color is on the model, or you can work with artist's oils (again using lighter shades) and some good brushes to achieve the same kind of effect.

The airbrush way is probably the easiest, provided you have good control of your tool. I'd mix the camouflage paint with another colour to make it look lighter (remember green gets lighter with yellow), or faded (in this case mix with white). Use the airbrush to 'dust' the paint over the areas you want faded. Do not stop in any one place, keep moving even if in circular motion over a particular panel. The centre of the panel should receive more paint than towards the edges.

The oil/brush method is probably more forgiving. Make sure your paint, if enamel, is really dry (several days!). Acrylic base paint will be fine. use Cadmium yellow and/or white. Place little dots of paint in the centre of the panels you want to see 'faded' then take a soft, flat, clean brush and slowly spread this little amount of oil paint into the base color. Oils do not cover well, they are rather transparent, but using lighter shades will leave a distinct mark on your model. The trick is to blend the oils so well that you can not see a stark demarcation between the lighter central area of the panel and the edges. As you start spreading the paint, use a clean rag to remove the excess paint from the brush and keep spreading, again in circular motion. Do not clean the brush with thinners until you have completed the process!

I forgot to mention that I'd apply my washes beforehand. The final drybrushing of edges and engraved details can be done later, again, if you want, using oils (they are more forgiving than acrylics, that dry way too fast, or even enamels.

A word of caution, though, oils can take several DAYS to dry (that's normal), so beware where you put those fingers!!!!!

dude, u dont know how much this helps!
thanks man! cool method. i was getting very tired of the airbrush crap! sounded impossible. any recommendations on brand? oh ya... im building a dark yellow stug III what color should i use? thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!

QUOTE: Originally posted by djmodels1999 The airbrush way is probably the easiest, provided you have good control of your tool. I'd mix the camouflage paint with another colour to make it look lighter (remember green gets lighter with yellow), or faded (in this case mix with white). Use the airbrush to 'dust' the paint over the areas you want faded. Do not stop in any one place, keep moving even if in circular motion over a particular panel. The centre of the panel should receive more paint than towards the edges. The oil/brush method is probably more forgiving. Make sure your paint, if enamel, is really dry (several days!). Acrylic base paint will be fine. use Cadmium yellow and/or white. Place little dots of paint in the centre of the panels you want to see 'faded' then take a soft, flat, clean brush and slowly spread this little amount of oil paint into the base color. Oils do not cover well, they are rather transparent, but using lighter shades will leave a distinct mark on your model. The trick is to blend the oils so well that you can not see a stark demarcation between the lighter central area of the panel and the edges. As you start spreading the paint, use a clean rag to remove the excess paint from the brush and keep spreading, again in circular motion. Do not clean the brush with thinners until you have completed the process! I forgot to mention that I'd apply my washes beforehand. The final drybrushing of edges and engraved details can be done later, again, if you want, using oils (they are more forgiving than acrylics, that dry way too fast, or even enamels. A word of caution, though, oils can take several DAYS to dry (that's normal), so beware where you put those fingers!!!!!

Windsor and Newton are reputedly the best oils on the market. I use those, but others as well. However, for your basic paints, such as white, burnt sienna and yellow ochre, buy the best you can afford. They will last forever, so it's not like you're gonna have to buy new tubes every 2 months. I've had mine for over 10 years and they are still going strong! For fading the dark yellow of your tank, use first a mix of yellow ochre and white, then go back with lighter (whiter) shades then maybe a very light touch of pure white if needed. Burnt sienna is a good paint to replicate rust. Put a tiny amount on the bit you want to see rusted over, then take a soft clan brush and drag the paint down to replicate the rust carried down by rain. Great results!

thanks dude!!! your rock
now you have answer 2 of my questions
thanks for the rust tequnique, but how much do u use for it and what do u apply it with? im sorry im asking so much questions but i really like your tips.thanks

QUOTE: Originally posted by djmodels1999 Windsor and Newton are reputedly the best oils on the market. I use those, but others as well. However, for your basic paints, such as white, burnt sienna and yellow ochre, buy the best you can afford. They will last forever, so it's not like you're gonna have to buy new tubes every 2 months. I've had mine for over 10 years and they are still going strong! For fading the dark yellow of your tank, use first a mix of yellow ochre and white, then go back with lighter (whiter) shades then maybe a very light touch of pure white if needed. Burnt sienna is a good paint to replicate rust. Put a tiny amount on the bit you want to see rusted over, then take a soft clan brush and drag the paint down to replicate the rust carried down by rain. Great results!

I'm glad to be oh help, Juniormodeler, no problem.

The burnt sienna used for the rust is put on with a fine brush, so that you don't put paint all over. The fine brush allows you to 'pinpoint' very precise locations such as weld seams, particular rivet or bolt. As you are adding colour not texture this technique would not work that well, say, on an exhaust muffler, at it would leave the plastic even. For that sort of rust, you'll need other techniques.

thanks!