how to get good weathering

I've used dust from the fields near my house.Find some fine dust,put it in a film canister.Shake the canister,and the finer dust will rise to the top.A coat of clear flat applied with an airbrush at low pressure from a distance of about 15cm. to seal it,and thats that.Worked REAL well on a panzer IVd I did a year ago.Oh yeah,apply the dust as you would pastels.I have 4 different tones of dust on hand.

im gonna be the odball, i think they used tons of pastels. dude, for the washes i would just type it into www.google.com and search it. theres tons of weathering guides but that is awsome work. believe me, yours wont look that good at first.

QUOTE: Originally posted by jksprau Could anyone give me a place to go where they show you in pictures how to dru brush and make and use washes?????????/

Could anyone give me a place to go where they show you in pictures how to dru brush and make and use washes?????????/

shermanfreak is right, practice. For winter camo vehicles try painting the whitewash first, I use a very light grey, then dry brush the base color on the high points and edges to give it that worn off whitewash look, it's kind of the opposite of doing it the normal way, dark over light. And remember the lower half of the vehicle will always be more worn than the top. the wear on the top is usually caused by crew men.

Shermanfreak has hit all the nails on the head. The tank model you posted looks like a lot of wash was used. I have a jar that I mixed black and brown paint in with lots of paint thinner. I paint over the areas I want the grime to be and after all the thinner evaporates it leaves the colors which fill in and actually highlight the low areas of the model. I also use a lot of drybushing techniques as also described. Key words though really are practice practice practice

There are many different ways to achieve weathering. The pic that you have included with your post probably incorporates many of these techniques because it is quite heavily weathered.

Washes - using a small amount of paint (usually a shade or two darker than the base coat) mixed with thinner. This is applied to the model and is allowed to flow into the cracks and crevices giving depth to the kit.

Drybrushing - load your paintbrush with paint then remove most of the paint by scrubbing it out on a piece of cardboard. Then using a scrubbing action, apply small amounts of the paint to the model. This method highlights rivets, bolts, etc.
The colour that I usually use for this is steel because I'm trying to show that the paint has worn off and is exposing the metal beneath.

Pastels - these are artists chalks (not wax) that are applied to the model to create dirty and dusty areas as well as toning down the original paint colour. I sand these down to a fine dust and apply them with a ratty old paint brush.

I also will use ground pencil leads to metalize the look of some points on my models.

Tracks - for metal tracks I use a base coat of gun metal acrylic followed by a heavy drybrushing of rust. Then I will drybrush steel to highlight the tracks and finally apply ground pencil lead using my finger to burnish the tracks.

Each and everyone of these techniques and others that will be mentioned in this thread require a certain amount of practice. Try them out on an old kit or a piece of plastic sprue until you feel confident with them. I have seen far too many models that were built great but then ruined by excessive and poor weathering. Practice, practice, practice and remember a little goes a long way.