Small Scale Armor Weathering

You have to scale down your weathering. When you go small, think of this: the smaller my scale; the smaller my detail.
Use washes, but instead of the usual mixture for 1/35, cut it down more, thin out your washes. Pastels use less and in more eye catching places, i.e. road wheels and treads.
Use smaller brushes and just think small. Make the weathering suttle and light. Don't go nuts, a small model need LESS!!!

I know this all cmight sound trivial, but think about your scale first. Try the Bradley.

I agree with Box-Stock. If you have an airbrush you might want to try 'misting' a sand color on the lower hull and suspention. Practice first on some junk models(Put that Abrems to good use, eh?) Hope that helps, Fletcher

Hi, igevent.
Just a suggestion. I've found this works as well on 1/35 as it does on 1/72:
1. Spray the entire model flat black. Nothing should be glued on the tank at this time (turret, roadwheels, sideskirts, etc.)
2. Take some armor sand (a Testor enamel...I'm partial to enamels) and add a small amount of gray to tone it down slightly.
3. Now the fun part: DON'T spray the model like you're putting paint on an airplane. Instead, hold the airfbrush a few inches from the model--and without moving the airbrush--spray a small "circular dot" onto the surface. Move the airbrush slightly so that the next dot will overlap the first, and pull the trigger again. Continue in this manner until the entire model is covered. When complete, there should be a VERY subtle hint of black underneath the base coat. This adds the first taste of faded color. Spray the roadwheels (inside and outside), sideskirts, etc. the same way .
4. Now take your base coat and add a little white to lighten it slightly. Using the same dotting-in effect, spray on the lightened base color on all the horizontal surfaces, but try to keep it inside the various panel lines. This heightens the faded effect.
5. Just as Issah above suggested, use a thin wash. I use a dark brown (burnt sienna, I think) applied with a very pointed brush (I like liners for this purpose). Pick up some of the wash on your brush and touch it to a panel line or other raised detail. If sufficiently thin, capillary action will pull the wash into all the nooks and crannies of the kit. This will really make bolt heads and other detail stand out. Add a black wash around the rubber of the roadwheels; This will erase any basecoat overspray on the rubber portions.
6. Apply decals now. You'll have to apply a gloss coat where you want the decals to go. After drying, apply a flat coat.
7. Now you are ready to start drybrushing. I like starting with a plain Testor's sand as an "overcoat", and finishing up with--believe it or not--radome tan. This adds a little highlight of yellow and brings the Gulf War sand color a llittle closer to reality. You can, if desired, add some light pastel chalk to continue the highlighting process.
Try it and see what happens. I think you will be delighted with the results. If you have any questions, I would be more than happy to help.
All the best,
Gip Winecoff