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Pre Shading, post Shading

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  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Clovis, Calif
Pre Shading, post Shading
Posted by rebelreenactor on Friday, October 22, 2004 11:32 PM
Hey guys,
For my next paint job, Id like to try the pre shading or post shading process.
So, I have some ???'s

1. What is the difference. Obivously one comes before and one comes after painting.
2. is one better?
3. How do I do either?
4. Where do I apply it?
5. What colors? Black?

I think thats it, if I missed something big please feel free to add.
Thanks for th ehelp in advance!Smile [:)]
John
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tidewater Virginia
Posted by sh00ter on Saturday, October 23, 2004 6:08 AM
Reb,
I'm trying post shading on a Sherman right now. Got the idea from a workshop I attended at an IPMS nats convention a couple years back. The entire tank gets a coat of black (I guess you can concentrate most of the effort into making sure the black gets sprayed into the areas that are in the shade, etc.) then you add the OD in thin layers till it looks right. I've wanted to give this technique a try for a couple years and, after seeing finished results from other modelers, think post shading is the way to go. Will post my efforts later.

dt
"where plastic can be a four-letter word..."
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 23, 2004 7:10 AM
I like to preshade. Probably because it allows you to see inperfections before you spray your main color. Check out Moses' StuG painting in the group thread, he has a really nice technique.
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Henlow, England
Posted by Jeff Gunn on Saturday, October 23, 2004 7:42 AM
hmmmmmmm...confused??? is sh00ter not describing pre-shading? or is it instead of covering everything you only put the under shading normally darker in colour on cerain areas...I think technically both would be pre-shading. i.e. darker on first then main body colour goes on top. Post shading I thought is where the natural main body colour goes on first then is darkened?
JG Per Ardua
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: PA
Posted by JWest21 on Saturday, October 23, 2004 8:34 AM
You're right Jeff. Probably a typo. The problem I always have with preshading is I always put the paint on too thick in one area or anither, wiping out the color from below. I end up going back and respraying with a darker color in those areas. Call it my prepostshading technique
Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry
  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Clovis, Calif
Posted by rebelreenactor on Saturday, October 23, 2004 8:38 AM
I think I am going to try some pre shading first. (i'll be trying both). So do I really thin down the OD, or just use the regular 50/50 mix that I use.
John
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: PA
Posted by JWest21 on Saturday, October 23, 2004 9:00 AM
I do not thin mine down. I just do very light coats
Jason "There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -D. Barry
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 23, 2004 11:56 AM
I have had some great results with post shading.... I am not sure which on is better, but I always post shade. It just seems to me like mistakes are easier to correct. As far as how to do it, well I have outlined the painting steps that I use for most of my models on my website:

http://home.comcast.net/~williamehler/frames.htm

hope this helps...
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, October 23, 2004 2:21 PM
I favor pre-shading and use different methods depending on the finish I'm after. Dunkelgelb based schemes are pre-shaded with MM Rust to simulate the red oxide primer. Dark gray or OD green get a pre-shade of MM Flat Black. The key with pre-shading is all about the pressure, thinner ratio, and angle at which you apply the follow-on basecoat color. The idea behind pre-shading is to produce depth and shadows along with dark/light fading. To achieve this I usually apply the preshading coat at high presure (20-30 psi) and broad coats and the follow-on coats at low pressure (10-15 psi) and thinned 50/50 depening in light mist coats with a detail tip to produce the desired effect.

I've never tried traditional post-shading but instead apply weathering using straight enamels and weathering powders or artist pastels to basically achieve the same effect in combination with the pre-shading and painting. I'm happy with what it produces but I encourage you to try out different methods until you find one that suits you. It may be a hybrid of different stuff depending on what you have handy and what you actually like doing. There's no one magic way to finish a model. Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tidewater Virginia
Posted by sh00ter on Saturday, October 23, 2004 6:24 PM
Hmmm, I guess I've been confused about this all along. I've been pre-shading when I thought I was post-shading! Now I know what to call it! Thanks all!
Blush [:I]
"where plastic can be a four-letter word..."
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