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Help with spoked wheels for German DKW NZ 350 motorbike

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Help with spoked wheels for German DKW NZ 350 motorbike
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 5, 2004 9:00 AM
Hello,

I am hoping to get some ideas for adding spoked wheels to my Tamiya DKW NZ 350 motorbike (kit # 35241 “German Motorcycle and Orderly Set).”

I am a figure modeler, and have been working exclusively with Historex the past year or so. I am very familiar with adding scratch-built details to these figures, but must admit to being at a loss here. Blush [:I]

When I opened the box I realized at once that the spokes must be corrected. The other small details I see I can add by using wire, card, etc., but the wheels have me stumped. My first impulse was to check Squadron for a detail set. The closest thing available was for the BMW R75, and was priced at $20.00. I do not want to pay that for just a set of spoked wheels, as the rest of the details likely will not work with this model cycle.

Wondering if anyone can share some methods of spoke construction? I was contemplating the use of thin gauge wire, but I do not feel it would be strong enough.

Any help greatly appreciated. Smile [:)]

RM
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Sunday, December 5, 2004 9:22 AM
Aber does a PE set where it replaces the spokes with PE. It is set 35-091. You can download instructions for it here to see if it will suit your needs.

http://www.aber.net.pl/aber_english.html
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 5, 2004 10:21 AM
You know for something that particular and so small I'm just wondering (out loud) if the path of least resistance spending some $ on some sort of PE fret from someone? I'm not against scratchbuilding, just wondering if the amount of time and effort that could be spent is worth it versus buying what you need already done by some after-market company? I guess that's a question we all have to answer for ourselves? I think I'd spend the money.

Glenn
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 5, 2004 12:16 PM
Hello,

Thank you for this. It was very helpful. Squadron does not carry that set, but I found a company in Canada that does have it, and I have ordered it.

I appreciate your help. Smile [:)]

RM

QUOTE: Originally posted by Rob Gronovius

Aber does a PE set where it replaces the spokes with PE. It is set 35-091. You can download instructions for it here to see if it will suit your needs.

http://www.aber.net.pl/aber_english.html
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 5, 2004 12:19 PM
Hello, Glenn,

In this case, I agree with you 100%. I am used to making all of the details for my figures from scratch, but in this case, I think the PE set is the best answer. I have ordered it from Canada. This will be the first PE set I have worked with. I am looking forward to the "challenge." Smile [:)]

Kind regards,

RM

QUOTE: Originally posted by 53ryder

You know for something that particular and so small I'm just wondering (out loud) if the path of least resistance spending some $ on some sort of PE fret from someone? I'm not against scratchbuilding, just wondering if the amount of time and effort that could be spent is worth it versus buying what you need already done by some after-market company? I guess that's a question we all have to answer for ourselves? I think I'd spend the money.

Glenn
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 5, 2004 4:31 PM
Hey Robert-
We all look forward to some pictures when you're done!

Glenn
(too chicken to try a digital camera!)
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Sunny Florida
Posted by renarts on Sunday, December 5, 2004 10:54 PM
The PE is the way to go. You have to ask yourself a couple of questions.
1) What is your time worth to you?
Is $20 for the PE worth the time it will cost you to scratchbuild it?

2)Does the effort equal the outcome?
In that if you scratchbuilt it, is the scratch better than the PE?

I see no reason why you wouldn't use the fine wire if you wanted. Strength is not an issue in that there is no real weight bearing down on the wheel hub.

Good luck with the project.
Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, December 6, 2004 5:17 AM
Hello, Glenn,

If I can figure out how to take a decent digital photo, and how to post that photo, I will certainly do so.

Right now I am just about to finish one Historex build, and start the painting of another… the DKW NZ 350 will be next on the bench. Smile [:)]

Regards,

RM


QUOTE: Originally posted by 53ryder

Hey Robert-
We all look forward to some pictures when you're done!

Glenn
(too chicken to try a digital camera!)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, December 6, 2004 5:24 AM
Hello,

I agree with you on this. I have never used PE on any project. I have been building Historex Napoleonics exclusively for the past year, and I scratch build all the little details for those, so it was natural for me to want to try the build the wheels first, but after looking at the Aber set that was brought to my attention, that seemed the way to go, especially as it was only $13.00 for the set. I am excited to see what else is on the set and how it will come out, as I have never used PE. I also purchased the Aber PE set for the Tamiya “German Soldiers with Bicycles” set (#35240), again, mainly for the wheels.

Regards,

RM


QUOTE: Originally posted by renarts

The PE is the way to go. You have to ask yourself a couple of questions.
1) What is your time worth to you?
Is $20 for the PE worth the time it will cost you to scratchbuild it?

2)Does the effort equal the outcome?
In that if you scratchbuilt it, is the scratch better than the PE?

I see no reason why you wouldn't use the fine wire if you wanted. Strength is not an issue in that there is no real weight bearing down on the wheel hub.

Good luck with the project.
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