PHOTOETCH PROBLEMS

I recommend using a photo-etch bending tool such as the Hold-n-Fold or the Etch Mate. I have the Hold-n-Fold and it works so much better than tweezers and a file ever did for bending p/e pieces. Good luck and remember: Patience is the key when working with p/e sets.

Crossracer, you totally hit the nail on the head. Every peice of advice you just gave, I learned the hard way. The best advice you gave was if you are having a problem with a peice, leave it off!! Amen.

I know survey the whole model, as well as photoetch instructions and deicide before construction what I will use and what I will not use. Tool brackets, grills, and latches I always use. But I try to stay away from the temptation of using the mudguards, especially from Eduard.

Great post Crossracer!!

The panzer IIIL i just finished was my first go at using P.E.,mostly air intake grills,as those SEEMED easy.They were not easy,but the end result was great!I have the ABER set for an su-122 I started today.Extensive is an UNDERSTATEMENT!I'll probably use only the parts I feel confident with,and use the rest for practice.As I work VERY slowly on projects these days(2 hours per week,maximum),it might be a year until I finish.Who knows?it could turn out to be a "skill builder",and I just might end up using all of it!

I just found this sight on the Marder III with the 7.62 cm pak 36. If this is the one your talking about, and not the new M that tamiya has just come out whith, then check this sight out. http://www.tankshack.com/images/marder_iii_page_01.htm Be sure to click on the "page 2" link, wich is at the top of the pics for some reason. It leads to A LOT of usefull pictures.

hope this was some help

Patience my friend is the answer. It can seem very difficult but with a little practice it's fairly easy.
First study the kit and the photo-parts, are you replacing, adding on to, or simply replacing a piece that wasn't there. If replacing you will have to remove the old kit part sometimes. Don't be afraid to study this as much as possible, dry fit the parts. If your adding on to it just study the diagram and figure where it will best fit into the construction sequience.
First give your photo parts a bath of thinner to remove and oils that could interfere with the glue. Remove the part with a fresh #11 blade or a pair of snippers. Carefully file down with a jewerls file any burrs. Then use a good pair of tweesers to prepare the part. I use the ZONA set of tweesers, 25.00 for the set of 5 but trust me they are worth it.
THen you need the right glue, slow setting super glue is the stuff i use. Also i use a kicker with it so that once i have the part in place it will stay. Take a old plastic soda cap, put about 2 drops of slow setting superglue in there. Once it's in there use a tooth pick or brass rod to transfer a small amount to the part or area on the model where it's needed. Position the part and then using a brush apply some kicker so it flows down onto the glue. This doesn't disrupt the part and it keeps the brush useful.
Finally if the part is so small or is driving you absolutly crazy trying to put it on, leave it off. This is a hobby and it's supposed to be fun. As you get better you will find out new ways to do things. I have a ABER set for a Panzer 4 that i'm not touching for a long while. Good luck and if you have any questions just e-mail me. Happy BIll