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Still need help on flat clear paint

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  • Member since
    February 2003
Still need help on flat clear paint
Posted by Anthony on Sunday, June 8, 2003 9:16 PM
OK folks, you may have see my same question on other section, but I still need your help on solving flat clear paint problem.

My question are, when you finish applying decal on the surface, and ready to airbrush a clear flat on to seal the decal:

1) What brand of clear flat paint you use.

2) What is the thinning ratio.

3) Would it be wise to apply a gloss clear on the decal first and then the flat clear.

Recently when I applied my flat clear (Guznze H20) on my Sherman, a dustly white matter sticked on the surface when it dried. I have to know how to avoid it in the future. Thanks.



  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Sunday, June 8, 2003 9:51 PM
For my armour this is what I do Anthony.

After the decals are applied, I spray the entire model with 2 or 3 coats of Testor's dull-cote. I use the spray can for this and have had no problems over the years. I have had nothing but problems with Gunze products in the past so I avoid them like the plague.
What brand of paint did you paint the base coat of the model with?
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Sunday, June 8, 2003 10:30 PM
Hi, folks.
Back in the days when I could get Testor's Dullcote, that was all I used (spray can). The only trouble I ever had was I was never satisfied with the level of flatness, no matter what I did.

These days I use nothing but Gunze water-based acrylic clear flat, with no problems at all, and with a great level of flatness. Dead flat, actually. I've seen nothing flatter! I airbrush it on in light coats, and have never had any problems with unwanted "whitening."

Gunze also makes a lacquer-based clear flat, which cannot be used on top of anything other than lacquer paint (or so it says on the WARNINGS section of the label). It will definitely cause a dust-like whitish phenomenon, which I actually used to my advantage on an enamel-painted Sherman once. Pretty good dust effect.

I can't recall the product numbers for these Gunze paints, but the main difference is one is a water-based acrylic and one is lacquer.
Perhaps it is the lacquer that is giving you trouble.

Or perhaps you applied the clear coat too thickly? I have heard that can be a cause ot top-coat tribulations.



~Brian
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 9, 2003 1:50 AM
Hi, Anthony
I've got the same results you've up to. What works for me is;
-Spray gloss to the entire model surface prior applying decals.
-After gloss cost has completely dry, apply decals.
-Spray another coat of gloss to seal the decals and mate it with the model surface.
-Leave it to completely dry.
-Now, the big part. DONOT USE THAT GUNZE H20!!! This product was designed to MIX with your gloss paint to create flat paint. NOT to be sprayed directly on the model. Get Testor's Dull-coat. That is the only option at this point. Remember, Spray in a well ventilated area. Mixing ratio try a one to one or 1 / 1.5 of paint and thinner first. Spray the entire model with air pressure not more that 1.5 PSI with broad brush nozzel. If you use too high air pressure, you'll get tiny spots like dust as the paint pigments dries after leaving nozzel and hit the model surface. And if you use too low air pressure, you'll get blobs of paint like a toad's skin on your model as paints pile on your nozzel then been pushed to the model surface. Well, in other words, the air was not strong enough to push them out all in one time.

One last and important thing. DON"T attempt to use a fan to shorten the drying time of the flat. You'll get a frost on the area where the wind touches. Let it dry naturally.

It works for me. Up to you to try.
Have fun!!
  • Member since
    February 2003
Posted by Anthony on Tuesday, June 10, 2003 12:30 AM
Thanks for the quick responses folks. I am sure the Testor Dull coat ill work. I am also wondering any person has tried the Microscale flat clear and how is the result. I always tried to use acrylic paint because it is non-toxic and avoid enamel if necessary. But if there is no good acrylic flat clear, I'll use the Testor. Again thanks for the help.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 30, 2003 10:22 PM
Sorry to bring back an older post, but I've been researching what happened to me last night and this post pretty much covers it. I used Microscale flat coat last night on an airplane and it pretty much ruined it. Never again. White hazy powdery coverage everywhere. What a mess. Back to Testor's Dullcoat for me...
Murray
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 30, 2003 10:29 PM
what i use is future mixed with tamaiya flat base with no thiner about 30% flat base to 70% future if i remever correctly. works well with acrylic base coat.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, December 1, 2003 10:12 AM
There is a way to skip the hassles of decaling. Of course there is a catch (did you think there wasn't one?)! Use dry transfers wherever possible. The catch is...the price! Anyway I use dry transfers as much as I can. It's not cheap...but no worries about clear/flat coats/future, etc..

My two cents!

Glenn
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Monday, December 1, 2003 10:30 AM
I'm using Future with the Tamiya flat base like PantherLehr now also and it works great. I use the same ratio of 30% base to 70% Future and it gives a very flat finish, easy to clean up and no laquer fumes. I used to use Model Master Dull Coat and it works fine, but I like the Future better.

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Monday, December 1, 2003 12:44 PM
I find that Dull Coat in the rattle can gives me a semi-gloss (semi-flat??) finish at best. I use the "real" stuff out of the bottle with a little lacquer thinner. It is much flatter. Very strong smelling, though. Not for the weak of heart, or the enclosed work space (like I have!!).

Bill
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    April 2003
Posted by smarchandiv on Monday, December 1, 2003 2:33 PM
Erush,
How much PSI do you use on your compressor with the flat base/future 30%/70% mix?
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Monday, December 1, 2003 3:21 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by smarchandiv

Erush,
How much PSI do you use on your compressor with the flat base/future 30%/70% mix?


I run 20psi for everything pretty much.

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by mark956 on Monday, December 1, 2003 4:44 PM
Thanks for sharing the tips with us Guys.
mark956
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Rowland Heights, California
Posted by Duke Maddog on Friday, December 5, 2003 11:26 AM
I use the Tamiya flat base mixed with Future as well, spraying undiluted through my airbrush at 26-28 PSI. My ratio is about 60-40 Future to flatbase. Makes it come out real flat!

Also, I found out that if you mix too much flat base causing your model to turn white, just re-spray with full-gloss Future. I did that to a British Aircraft Carrier I was building. I had mixed too much Flatbase into it and the whole model turned milky white. I thought it was ruined. Then I decided that I hadn't enything to lose, so I re-sprayed with straight Future and the white went away. I remixed the Flatbase, and resprayed the next day. That week, I won a First Place at my IPMS meeting with that kit. :-)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 5, 2003 1:32 PM
Good info guys. I've tried mixing future with the Gunze flat base and I thought it was just "ok". I'm gonna try to get some of the Tamiya stuff like you mention. One question though: do you think there'd be any problem with pre-mixing a small bottle of the stuff? Will it go bad if the mixture sits for a few months??

Murray
  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by M1abramsRules on Friday, December 5, 2003 1:46 PM
I tried gunze h20 twice and in went in the garbage. I don't like it at all.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 5, 2003 1:48 PM
i have a bottle of pre-mixed stuff , its been a month and half since i mixed it , when i looked at it it seemed like the flat base had moved to the bottom but after shaking it a little while it seems ok , should be fine
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 5, 2003 3:13 PM
Hey! Testor's Dull-cote will separate if it sits unused long enough. Have never have any problems with it though. Just stir it very good. It'll mix just like new. Sorta like James Bond..."shaken not stirred'? You get my point!

Glenn
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