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tiger painting trouble

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  • Member since
    November 2005
tiger painting trouble
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, June 14, 2003 7:14 PM
heres my problem.I bought a tamiya tiger 1/35.I painted it a mono tone dark grey but did not like the look so i painted it a of white winter cammo then tried to add some detail by going over the seems etc with an oil based burnt umber and wiped it of as much as possible which left it looking sort of ok but it looks very "tanned" and maybe not very "wintery" did i do my painting in the right order or what should i have done and what can i do to winterize it more.
many thanks phil
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, June 14, 2003 7:29 PM
Did you seal the winter camou with future or some other clear coat before appling the burnt umber?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, June 15, 2003 6:00 AM
I made the same mistake on mt first camo. You have to seal the base color. Otherwise, in my case, I got a white-green tint tank.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, June 15, 2003 9:52 AM
hmmmm...ok - my guess then would be that oil based paint is not the ideal medium to do the wash effect. If you are wiping it off with a dry cloth it is probably leaving a small residue on the surface that has probably sunk its "teeth" into the clear coat and you can't completely get rid of. If you try wiping it with turpentine or some other strong mineral you'd probably rejeuvenate the clear coat too and end up with the same problem. Have you tried washes with either watered down acrylics or enamels?
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Sunday, June 15, 2003 9:55 AM
or washes with artist's watercolours ? More room for correcting mistakes there!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, June 15, 2003 12:43 PM
You might also try alternating you media. For example, if you paint a base coat of acrylic, then destroy some ozone molecules and top coat with a lacquer (which may tend to turn yellow over time) or a suitable enamel. I have also found that GLOSS coats make the best initial base coat. Since the gloss is "slicker" it tends cancel the effects of the wash colors clinging between the "teeth" of the flatter colors. I personally prefer enamel and lacquer basecoats with a similar glossy topcoat, then the decals washes and weathering in an alternate media, then a flat topcoat.

I tend to hate acrylic paint, but I recently discovered that Model Master Acryl (acrylic) flat thinned slightly with flow aid and Acryl thinner, sprayed through a medium duty tip on an Aztek or Model Master Airbrush or sprayed in broad strokes with a Pasche or Badger makes an outstandingly flat topcoat, even over underlying glossy surfaces.

The previous replies are correct. The wash colors tend to tint flat colors, but are more forgiving over gloss. I personally (for what it's worth) don't like to cover the whole model with the wash. I try to use them along edges and seams, around details, etc. This leaves the basecoat basically untouched, but this is not always a workable solution if the washed areas cause an unwanted stain. Trial and error will evolve "your" technique.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Long Island
Posted by Moses on Sunday, June 15, 2003 4:06 PM
Can't really add to much considering the great posts and opinions givin on what went wrong with your winter white wash phil. But I never put a brownish wash on winter white wash for that same reason. When I do winter white wash's on my models, I always use Winser Newton Blue Black oil washes. The blue tint gives the white wash a very "cool" and subtle tone, while the black gives some grime to the recesses. Just my opinion.

Rob
"ZIM FIRST, ASK QUESTIONS LATER!!"
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