individual tracks

Patience Alex, patience.

It depends on what kit you are building to a small degree. Are they tracks that would sag between return rollers (ie Panzer III or IV). Tracks that sag to the top of the roadwheels (Tiger or Panther). Or tracks that have no sag (Sherman).

With all of these patience is still the key. Let us know which kit you are building and someone will be able to help a bit.

P.S. Did I mention patience.

Well I'm building a T-34/85 and I want to know how to do the tracks on it, and it is a Dragon 1/35 kit.

Well T-34..if you are using Dragon's individual track links...you need to first make the track length around both the drive spoket and idler wheel. This way it will be cured in place. You can then remove it to paint and put it back on when you have made the bottom and top lenths. I recomend using Model Masters glue with the metal applicator. It has a slow enough drying time so you can postion the tracks the right way.

I personally never use non-workable track links (i.e. Dragon, Tamiya, or even ModelKasten non-workable). I know that Fruil makes an awesome set of T-34 workable (movable) tracks and you would have no problems getting them done. You should also look into ModelKasten Workable tracks. It makes life easier. Trust me.

The non-workables do have a bit of a "get 'em on while they're hot factor" that can be a little stressful, that's for sure. AS mentioned before, the key is patience, and some planning. If you're going to use the Dragon links, Moses' advice is sound. I usually do it in 4 pieces: a top run, a bottom run, and then the ends. The T-34 tracks are quite saggy between the road wheels on top, so you may want to build a run from the top of the idler to the top of the drive sprocket (not really a "sprocket on the T-34 though, eh?) for each side and push 'em down onto to the wheels to get that bumpy road sag look. The problem I always have is being one link (or link unit) too long or too short, and with the T-34 style tracks (two links per"unit") you could get in big trouble hitching it all up. so you need to be careful and make sure it all adds up. It would be nice if the Dragon kits told you how many links you need. Does the T-34/85 kit give you a clue? The M4A3E8 JGSDF Sherman I built sure didn't, but Armor Modeling had a life-saving article that gave precise numbers.
Another trick I use is disposable wooden chopsticks to line up everything. A big problem I notice with links on some kits is an unnatural unevenness. I use the chopsticks (one on each side of the track horn) to line up and flatten the tracks as I'm making lengths. When I'm done, they're straight and smooth and ready to be shaped to the running gear.

But Moses is right: the Friul or Modelkasten trax are the better, easier, and quicker way to go.
They ain't cheap, though.
But they look great!

Good luck with whichever path you choose.
I think the best advice overall is: Just Do It!

I guess it boils down to personal preference. The above mentioned nonworkable tracks apparently didn't work for them, but I had no problem with Dragon's JS II even with the sag. I prefer to paint them first and then glue sets together as previously mentioned. Ditto with my Tamiya Tiger I. I was apprehensive to build them from all that I heard and read, but I dug in and found them to be quite easy. They are however, time consuming. I usually do one side a day. Stay with it Alex.

Thanks Tigerman

Get or make some sort of straight edge to work against! You can use a metal ruler on some sort of base, but I prefer a method I saw in a Fine Scale a year or so ago. Get a piece of heavy plastic (Evergreen), one that won't flex too much, and glue a piece of Plastrut angle onto it. (You need an ABS type cement for Plastrut, I believe). Line the individual links up one at a time and use a SPARING amount of cement (I use Tamiya Extra Thin) to glue them together. (I really like J-Hulks idea of disposable chopsticks!) If you get too much glue on the links, it will run through and glue them to the plastic base. (Not a pleasant thing.) You could try covering the base in wax paper, if you want. I use the Tamiya Extra Thin because it sets up fast enough that I don't have to sit and hold the links for a long time to keep them from coming apart, but still gives you a half hour or so to curve the tracks as needed around all those bumps and sprockets. But you do need to let them sit for a while (rmember the patience comment) so they don't get squiggely on you or glue themselves to your sprockets. (Another unplesant thing!!)

Good luck with the tracks. Let us know how they trun out!

Bill

I've just discovered your problem, hope my sharing is not too late. I also have a DML Soviet T-34 with similar problem. Beside using the methods other mention, I've found another trick. Make sure you DO NOT glue the front idler wheels axles(part A6) on to the lower hull at the first place as mentioned in Step 3 in the instruction sheet. First, glue the idler wheels(combination of F2, F4, F5) on to the axles(A6). Then just DRY FIT the axles on to the hull and leave it loose, so that they could be used to adjust the track tension and length. While installing the track, adjust(swing)the axeles so that it will yield a correct tension and length for the track, then glue it. Hope this will help. Also hope it's not too late.