Resin questions

OK, scammell been put away before I got any dumb ideas about starting it.

After all, I remember the fist plastic kit I built, NOT a pretty sight !

I lean towards Jon's most sound advice ..... the Scammell will be quite a handful to work with if you haven't worked with resins before. Start with a conversion before tackling this big boy, it will make the build a whole lot easier and the results will be far better.

Thanks for the great advice guys, i've noted it all down. I think you're right, I should try something smaller first to get a feel for using resin, dont want to make a pigs ear of the scammell.

Its the modern scammell commander. I spent almost 5 years driving them so reference material isnt a problem !

Wellcome to the forums Razorback
to be honest i would start on another resin model first to get used to working with the material, its brittle and needs alot of work to clean it up
try starting out on resin figures, Wolf make some great British figures that would go with the Scammel, then you could get a conversion or full resin kit to go on the back of the transporter and your confidence would have improved so you could start the scammell
is it the Modern Scammell or the WW2 Scammell

Razor,

53ryder hit on all the points. The only other step I would advise, is to wash the resin parts in luke-warm soapy water. (any liquid dish detergent is fine) Also, it's a good idea to primer the parts. It makes it easier to see all the gaps and sink marks

To straighten warped resin, I have used the hot water method. Dunk it the hot water for a few seconds then dip in cold water as you are holding the part in it's correct shape.

As for adhesive, I use Zap-A-Gap for my resin parts.

If you follow these steps, resin is no problem at all.

I generally prime any part, styrene or resin, before painting.

You can use super-glue or 5 minute epoxy (2 part) glue on resin. Tube glue or liquid cement won't work. Be careful with super-glue as it dries awfully fast, like almost instantaneously! Epoxy does take a while, like 5 minutes, maybe a little shorter; but it does allow for correcting any mis-placed part.

I think any part that may be warped can be 'un-warped' by using a hair dryer on it and hand-bending the part back to correct shape or dipped in hot water and worked back into shape. Just be careful warming/heating your part up. And don't over stress your part or you run the danger of snapping it. It's a finesse skill not brute strength!

Don't be afraid to try something new, that's how we all improve our skills.

Hope this helps!