Sherman progress pics

I tried the wash out, it did make a big difference in highlighting the details. Now just got to finish up the tracks. Thanks for the help with the wash Erush.

Thanks again guys, I'll be starting on the wash here in a little while so that extra bit came in time.

Just a few other thoughts, Chris. The flat you put on at the end will take a bit of the contrast off the washes, so all I can say here is to expirement to see how much you want to put on. If you use chalks, the flat will REALLY take that down. You can put chalks on after the final flat, but you run the risk of having it rubbed off and/or spread around where you don't want it through handling, kids, cats, etc. As has been said before...practice, practice, practice (and patience, patience, patience).

Good luck

Bill

Oops, I tried to reply to this right before I left work yesterday but I guess it didin't go through. Chris, attach as much as you can before the wash. Some things you may need to leave off depending on the model. On my Marder I left off the rear basket and the seats inside the compartment and the tracks. I left the basket off so I could do a rust job on the muffler after the washes, and the seats just to make it easier to work inside the compartment. I also had the barrel where I could slide it off the carrige and I could pull the whole gun and shield off too (poly cap ). For some of the stuff I pulled it apart and some I'd reassemble it. As far as tools and cables it would be best to have that on when you do it so it accents them like Bill said. For my tracks I was doing different stuff on them so I'm leaving them off till I'm done with it all.

Just one thing on the wash, go easy at first with it and add more later if you want a deeper shadeing. It's just easier than removing it if you go too heavy first. And also Bill mentioned it and I'll do it again, make sure you have a good glossy coat of future on so the wash comes off easy. It'll shine it up but a coat of clear flat at the end fixes that right up!!

Eric

You're right that is impressive but I do believe that if I came in the house carrying a kit like a suitcase my wife might kill me.

Chris;

Try this link:

http://www.erock68.com/index.html

Take a look at what Eric's done with washes. It's pretty impressive. I think his wheels are on the 6th page. (For some reason, my system here at work is only brining up the infamous red X now. It was working earlier. Honest!!)

Bill

Allright so it sounds like put everyting on and then do the wash. I should be attempting the wash in the next couple of days so I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

Murray- If you build that tank you'll be hooked , I never built one until about 2 months ago and I can't seem to want to build a car again.

I love watching the pics you armour guys post up. Someday I'm gonna have to build a tank!!

Murray

Bill, thanks for the props on the wash diatribe As far as the difference between ivory and lamp black...???? I haven't a clue though what I guessed was maybe the lamp black is more of a flat and the ivory is more glossy??? As I said I just guessed. I got the lamp black myself and it seems to work well. Now on the ratios I used in my wash I need to say that was for the MArder with the 3 color camo so I needed it dark, but If you were doing a monotone dark yellow TIger say, you'd probably want to barely use any black at all. I have seen some models that are washed till they look black almost and I like it a little more subtle but still dark enogh to notice. Again as with all modeling, experiment and decide what you like best but if I can help, let me know.

Eric

As for myself, I do it after everthing is put on the model. That way, you can get some nice "shadow" effects under the equipment. Some even do it after the decals are on so they tie in better with the finish.

Have fun.

Bill

One more queston about the wash. Do I do it after attaching all the various accesories to it or before?

Nice pictures Chris. I hope my Sherman Calliope turns out as nice.
Mark956

Bill- Thanks , you know I was looking at it trying to figure out why it did'nt look quite right and you reminded me that I was'nt building a car anymore : ). I thought they put those rubber things in the box to have something to smack the kids hands with when they grab for it.

Jrmodeler- Looks like I'll be there for sure,even if I can't get off work boss is going to give me something close by.

looks good........ r u still on for the competition on the 4th?? if your are coming then that will definately place.

Chris,

It is looking way tooooo cool! I really like it. I've to do my first Sherm yet, and you inspire me. (Maybe I'll do my USMC next, after I finish up the mid Tiger!) Oh, btw, I think you need to put the tracks on it.

What Eric told you sounds really great. I haven't seen a wash quantified quite that well before. I did a screen copy so I'll remember what he said. I just want to add, make sure you don't skip (or skimp) over the gloss coating. It will make removing unwanted parts of the wash much easier. In fact, if the gloss doesn't get on well, repainting becomes a definate option!

Does anybody out there know what the difference is between Ivory Black and Lamp Black? I figure there must be some slight shading difference, but I sure can't see it. Which should be used for these beasts?

Again, great job, Chris

Bill

Eric- Thanks for that , I looked around on here but did'nt find anything that really explained washing like I could really understand. You laid it out pretty simple and now I believe I can tackle it. Since I got off early thanks to some long awaited rain maybe I can get some good progress made on it.
Thanks to everybody for the suggestions.

Nice lookin' Sherm, Chris! I like the big markings.
I'm with the rest; a tad more washing and drybrushing, and that baby'll be perfectamundo!

Looking really good Chris! I too think it would benefit from a wash and I'll give you some tips if you want to try it. Go to Michaels, Hobby Lobby, or somewhere that has artist supplies and get a tube of Burnt Umber and Black Winsor Newton oil paints and some turpentine (my preference) or mineral spirits. Give the whole madel a good coat of future to seal it and get a gloss coat on it and let it dry for at least 24hrs. Then mix the oils with about 1/3 black and the rest burnt umber and mix it up then add the turp or m/spirits. You'll want enough thinner to make it look like real dirty thinner but still be runny. Then just use pointed brush and apply the thinner along raised detail and panel lines, nuts bolts everything. It will run along the edges and you'll see the oils collecting around the detail. Now some will go where you don't want it too but don't worry. Let it sit for at least 2-3 hrs, around 6 is best though then use a q-tip or a small paint brush and get it moist then start wipiing the areas you want to remove the wash. It comes off quite easy and if you don't like it you can remove it all pretty easy too. Go ahead and give it a try, it's very easy and really gives depth to the detail on the model. If you aren't sure, try it on the bottom of the tank first or an old model if you have detail on the bottom. Do a couple bolts or a hull line and see how you like it.

Eric

Nice job Chris,

Two thumbs up!

cool, got the 1/12 scale cristie steam pumper , still in box though ,kind of big and dont have the space right now.

Well thats just what I needed , ideas for a what if kit. Well cops have tanks so why could'nt we? It could work well with some of the home locations around here. Of coarse an Oshkosh is pretty close. I have seen a pic some where of a tank that was modified into a firefighting apparatus I believe for wild fires.

Of coarse there is a little armor trivia here, John Walter Christie invented automotive front-wheel drive, many units of which were produced in 1913 and 1914 for fire trucks until he sold out to American Lafrance. He is best known as the "father of the modern tank," having developed the design in 1930 for high-speed tanks that moved optionally on wheels or track. The U.s govt turned him down so he sold the idea to the russians.

The Christie Fast Tank

looks good but wheres the hose and ladder? how 'bout a federal twin-sonic light bar? i know , i need to open my mind and expand my horizons!

Thanks all. There is some dry brushing done, I think the lighting got the best of it though. I am thinking of doing some washing but that is something I have never tried before and I don't want to mess it up and I don't have anything to practice on so any tips on that would be helpful. This has been probally one of the best kits I have done so far and have really enjoyed it so don't worry Robert it won't be my last plus I'm more keen to U.S. military stuff anyway. Hope to have the finished pics up soon.

Looking good. I would use a black wash over the grill area. This will give the grill some depth. I would give the entire model a flat clear coat and follow with some pastels to tone down the paint and give it a more weathered look. You are doing a great job and I trhink that you will have a winner here. Cheers

Coming along nicely Chris.

I would dirty her up a little more (especially the lower hull) and some drybrushing will really bring out the details.

These Tamiya kits are a sweet build. I hope it's not your last Shermie.

Chris,

That's good progress. You remind me about my still unfinished M4A3 105.
Hope to see more pics of that M4 as you move on.

Firstly, I think its looking great. I'm no expert on washes, but perhaps a wash, especially on the grille would help it pop out more. It looks like you have roughed it up a bit, which looks good. Keep it up, your doing great and good luck.

"It is well that war is so terrible, lest we grow too fond of it."-R.E.Lee

looks great, its got a nice clean build to it, cant wait to see what it looks like when your finished. Kudos to you.
-Andrew

"If you ever catch on fire, try to avoid seeing yourself in the mirror, because I bet that's what REALLY throws you into a panic."
- Jack Handy