SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Help please

2970 views
5 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, December 16, 2002 10:17 AM
You might find these recent FSM articles helpful, too: "Weathering tank tracks" (Sept 2002, p60) and "Less mess with pastels" (Nov 2002, p54).
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 15, 2002 2:54 PM
Thanks for the help
  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by crossracer on Saturday, December 14, 2002 4:51 PM
That was good advice from paackerson, here is some other important info about oil paints. First it depends on the nature of the paint that you've painted your model with. If youve used Tamiya then after it dries you can proceed strait to the "wash". However if you've used any paints that use a petrolium based thinner(model master, humbrol) then you need to apply a clear coat to protect your paint job, otherwise the wash will lift the paint. I use Krylon Matt clear acrkrilic spray. Now first you want to work in a Well ventelated room, since this stuff stinks. Second only use light coats, just enough to moisten the model, no runs. Now did you leave you wheels off to paint seperatly or are they on the model? If they are seperate then you can cover the face of the wheel with one pass, if their on the model and move than you'll have to spray, wait till dry, rotate wheels, spray again. After you've covered everything then you can proceed with the wash. I use a product called tupernoid which is aviable anywhere you buy oil paints. Now here's the trick. Apply the dilluted paint, basicily tinnited thinner, to the model so that it flows into the cracks and settles there. dont be afraid if it looks bad because here's the trick. Let it dry completely, then after a couple of days go back over it with an old t-shirt which has som strait turponoid on it. The idea is to take off what you can by lightly rubbing off the piece. The wash should stary in the deep cracks and that's where you want it. Give it a try. If you need help e-mail me. Later Bill
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 14, 2002 3:43 PM
I viewed the mag you are talking about and if you go back over the article and read carefully he explains how it is done. The paint for the wash he is using is artist oils so, to achieve the same effect, you may have to invest in some good oils. I recommend them. I use burnt sienna and black thinned with mineral spirits (turpentine) and after it has dried for several days I go back and do the dry brushing. Hope this works for you.
Best of Luck!
Pat
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 13, 2002 9:02 PM
Hey, this is bradley here

I know what you're talking about. I think reading the article will help, she explains exactly how to do it with info and some pics. I don't remember exactly how to do it but you must create a dark wash and dry brushing. I do know you need brown, black, red, blue, and steel paint and it involves dry brushing.

I hope I was some help

Don't give up, it really is a really amazing hobby if you take your time and practice, the results are amazing, trust me!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Help please
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 13, 2002 7:51 PM
Im just a beginner (14 yrs) and I got a Tamiya King Tiger. In a recent issue, I saw a King Tiger, and its tracks and wheels were weathered with something (May 2002). I was wondering if any of you could tell me how to replicate this.
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.