Awasoda
Everything mentioned above. Make sure at least one tweezer is a very fine pointed one. I bought some from ModelExpo.com and they are labeled as being a #1. I'd also recomend another one that is normally closed. Mine are curved at the end and I find them helpful. Note that these are not the hemostat type that are normally open and can be latched closed. Another is a square ended one. They type ladies use for their eyebrows. (Very useful for bending small parts). Make sure they all have smooth "jaws".
A flat, square nosed pair of pliers. Again, great for bending parts.
An Xacto knife with a #11 blade used for cutting the parts off the frets. It will be quickly dulled, the very end of the point may even break off, but that's okay. Just take your time slicing through the fret attachment point.
I use a pair of small, manicure type, scissors to cut the parts from the fret, if I have room to get the scissors in without toasting the part. I find they cut cleaner and closer than my #11 blade.
A fine file or course sanding stick (my preference) for cleaning up the remaining attachment points from the part. You shouldn't use it for anything else as the little brass "grains" that get imbedded can really scratch up plastic.
A metal ruler for bending the parts.
Some small diameter dowels or metal tubes/rods for bending curved parts.
Either superglue debonder or fingernail polish remover, the type with acetone.
Toothpicks and cotton swabs.
Good eyes and lighting to find all the parts that are bound to be tweezerpulted and dropped.
A magnifying headband is a must (for me).
Good lighting
A third hand tool is often helpful, but not manditory.
Techniques:
Wash the frets (gently) in something to remove manufacturing oils. I use lacquer thinner, others use paint thinner or alcohol.
Stick masking tape behind small parts before cutting them from the fret or you'll probably never see them again.
Cut one part (or parts for one assembly) at a time from the fret.
Put parts in small parts box with a tight fitting lid to keep formed but as yet unused parts. I like the ones that have small partitions in them.
Use fresh, gap filling super glue, and use a little glue as you can.
Compare the pe instructions to the kit instructions. Often I mark the pe instructions with the kit step where it will be used. I also circle the part on the kit instructions that is
being replaced or enhanced. Note that the order of the steps on the two instruction sheets is NEVER the same, usually not even close.
Study the assembly drawing carefully and compare it to the part your going to work on. Make sure you know exactly where and in what order you want to bend the part. For multiple bends in a part, USUALLY you will want to work from the center of the part toward the outside folds, but this is not always true.
Dry fit the part before you glue it on. With superglue, you don't get a lot of second chances.
Work away from the edge of you table. You have a better chance of a dropped part staying where you can find it.
Don't feel like you've got to use every part in the pe set (like I did on my first build). Look at what a part is replacing or detailing and decide if it's that much better than the molded part. If not, don't do it. Put the part in the spares box for another project.
Hold off putting the small parts on as long as possible.
Don't get overwhelmed. Just take it one part at a time.
Prime your model before you paint. With photoetch, this is pretty much mandatory.
Good luck.
Bill