Working Part Lubrication

70mach1 wrote:

I would use either graphite or a drop of veggy oil. Stay away from petro based lubricants, over time it could dissolve the plastic!

I would avoid vegetable oil. Over time it will oxidise, gum up and/or go rancid (your model will literally stink).

Go with the graphite (which you may find a lot cheaper from an auto parts store than from a hobby store) or a light silicone grease. You can find plastic-compatible greases at the R/C counter at your LHS.

If you go for graphite, check out your local hardware or auto parts store and look for graphite lock lubricant. It comes in a small tube with a pointed end and contains finely powdered graphite.

It's intended to be used by putting the pointy end in the keyhole of your sticking lock and "puffing" the powdered graphite in. It's handy to have for that purpose and then you also have it available for modeling use.

 Graphite makes a good weathering agent, a very small amount applied with a finger leaves a metalic sheen. Maybe more useful for armor or airplane guys but it will work on trucks and engine parts if you're not building it 'clean from the showroom'.

It also makes your lock work slicker than snot.

Pencil lead is a good source of graphite. Get a soft drawing pencil, and carve the lead off into a small container. Then dip your finger in the graphite powder and  rub it onto the surfaces which will be in contact with each other. Works fine on aircraft models (spinning props) and military vehicles (turret rings).

Don't use oil or grease of any kind. It will only end in a gooey mess.

Cheers,

Chris.

I'd go with graphite, too.  And as was pointed out in one of the earlier threads, you can add it to your arsenal of weathering powders, too.

Regards,

Brad

Phil_H wrote:

I would avoid vegetable oil. Over time it will oxidise, gum up and/or go rancid (your model will literally stink). Go with the graphite (which you may find a lot cheaper from an auto parts store than from a hobby store) or a light silicone grease. You can find plastic-compatible greases at the R/C counter at your LHS.

I TOTALLY agree wih you - I would AVOID USING VEGETABLE OIL as a lubricant for plastic model parts, based on my experience.

I was building a plastic model engine and used vegetable oil to lubricate the parts, which is what the directions said I should use.  I was pretty skeptical about vegetable oil at the time, but since the directions said I should use it, I figured they knew what they were talking about.

WRONG!  After a few months, I went back to my model and saw that the vegetable oil had dried up into a VERY sticky, gummy film.   I could barely turn the parts to make them move.  It also smelled odd.  Fortunately, I was able to disassemble the parts and clean them off using isopropyl alcohol (this worked fine on gray plastic parts, I don't know how it would work on clear transparent plastic parts).

Before I reassemble the parts, I'm planning on using a graphite lubricant, as others here have recommended.  That seems to make sense.  I would avoid using anything petroleum-based (like WD40, mineral oil, petroleum jelly, etc.) since that might dissolve the plastic.