SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Chrome question

773 views
6 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: California
Posted by rabbiteatsnake on Tuesday, May 19, 2009 5:41 AM
I have to apologize to philo 426 on extensively correcting him on another rechrome thread, sorry, I stand corrected.  It makes sense as vacuum metalizing needs a primer as well, but this is totally new to me.  If you know of a vendor for that material, please let me know.
The devil is in the details...and somtimes he's in my sock drawer. On the bench. Airfix 1/24 bf109E scratch conv to 109 G14AS MPC1/24 ju87B conv to 87G Rev 1/48 B17G toF Trump 1/32 f4u-1D and staying a1D Scratch 1/16 TigerII.
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Posted by fantacmet on Thursday, March 12, 2009 10:07 PM

As was suggested you an send them out to be chrome plated, which usually runs big bucks, but not always.  there is a company called Chrometech USA, that specializes in chroming model parts.  They aren't that expensive, just keep in mind, that the part has to be perfect. 

Aside from that it is possible to chrome plate at home.  The standard electroplating is possible on plastic, but there is some preperation involved.  There is an electroreactive spray designed specifically to be sprayed onto plastic to allow electroplating.

While alcad looks good, to me it looks like either polished aluminum or dark chrome plating, instead of light chrome or show chrome.  Actual plating is going to be the only way to go if you want the real deal look.

    

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Maryland
Posted by cruz on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 11:11 AM

I personally love Alclad, once you learn how to apply it you will fall in love also. This Cobra was built by a friend of mine, the chrome was in very bad shape and he told me to Alclad it for him. I think it speaks for itself!!!!

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, March 9, 2009 4:07 PM
Thank you guys! I have never worked with Alclad before, only metlaizers. Thanks for the tip on enamel over acrylic. I think one of the LHS stocks Alclad products.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
Posted by deadhead on Monday, March 9, 2009 3:28 PM

MM67 Has it.
The only other way is to have them chromed by an aftermarket company and that runs big bucks.
I have found you should use ENAMEL gloss black paint and not the Acrylic for the best chrome look.

W

  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Albuturkey New Mexico
Posted by modelmaniac1967 on Sunday, March 8, 2009 11:57 PM

Alclad chrome is the only way to go, its real easy to get a chrome appearance on the first try, you can check my bike and the exhaust pipes were all sanded smooth to get rid of the molding seam then painted with gloss black paint, then 2 real thin coats of alclad II chrome paint.

Life is an illusion, if you can master the art of illusion you have it made.[View:http://sdfusioninc.blogspot.com/]

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Chrome question
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, March 8, 2009 9:07 PM
I figure this woud be the area/forum for experts on chrome. If a kit part is not chromed, and you want a chrome finish, aside from foil, what other options are there? Real good paints? This is for an "Old School" Revell kit.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.