Oversprayed on model

like lewbud said, price is a factor....but more importantly is it simply works better. I can take most acrylic based paints off in less than five hours with it. That means after a good rinse in the sink I can be applying a new coat of paint on the same day I messed up the first coat.

As far as primer goes, I have experiemented with quite a few. I found the automotive primer too inconsistent. Sometimes you get a perfect coat smooth as glass, other times you get a runny mess. Lewbud mentioned Tamiya Surface Primer.....that stuff is like the holy gospel of primers. Goes on perfect everytime, dries quickly, self levels, lays down a perfect flat finish. Awesome stuff. When doing aircraft, I will use Tamiya White Primer for my white undersides and not worry about applying another coat of white. Also, the Tamiya Grey Primer is a near spot on match for Light Ghost Grey. The stuff is easily worth it's 9 dollar price tag

teejay wrote:

Thanks for the replies. I was busy these few days and haven't had a chance to look at the internet. At 1st I was thinking of using a car polish or scratch remover to smooth out the bubbly looking paint job that I made but I guess I might as well start from scratch. With regards to primer do you just paint over the body once or twice? Is it ok to use a brush for your primer? Btp2k2, is the reason you're recommending Purple power over simple green is because it dissolves the paint faster?

Teejay,

I'm betting purple power is cheaper than simple green is Btp2k2's reasoning.  As for spraying or brushing primer, spray it.  The idea is a smooth paintjob and brush strokes will show through.  You need to spray enough to cover the body completely and no more.  There are many primers out there you'll have to experiment to see which one you like.  I happen to think Tamiya's fine white and gray primers are the best and I know guys that hit the local auto parts store and use Duplicolor primer or Krylon.  Tamiya's stuff is pricey I paid 9.00 for the large can where as the spray cans from the auto store are usually cheaper and you get more paint (a can of Chevy engine orange will last you forever, well not really but there's a lot of engines in that can).  From my personal experience I'd stay away from the Testors primers. I find they go on thick and dried to a semi gloss finish.  Just my personal experience, others may think they are the best thing since sliced bread.  Just play around with them til you find one you like.

brake fluid is by far the fastest and easiest way to strip paint!

jsust pick up a big jug of dot3 probably about 8 bucks. when your done just pour it back in the jug and it can be use several times again.

Thanks for the replies. I was busy these few days and haven't had a chance to look at the internet. At 1st I was thinking of using a car polish or scratch remover to smooth out the bubbly looking paint job that I made but I guess I might as well start from scratch. With regards to primer do you just paint over the body once or twice? Is it ok to use a brush for your primer? Btp2k2, is the reason you're recommending Purple power over simple green is because it dissolves the paint faster?

btp2k2 wrote:

Forget Easy Off, forget Simple Green. Go to your local Wal Mart, pick up a gallon jug of "Purple Power" (or if you want to pay more you can get "Superclean"...same stuff just made by Castrol) Fill up a plastic container (I use tuperware), drop in your part you want to strip, put on the lid.....come back in 12 hours and drop the part in the sink and wash it off. Some paint comes off faster than others, I stripped Tamiya acrylic in less that 4 hours with it. Awesome stuff. Don't stick your hand in it though...OUCH! I made a little hook out of a wire coat hanger to fish parts out of the soup.

What he said.  Won't affect the plastic like some of the others (some stripping means will make the plastic a little more brittle).  Another reason for using primer is that there are sometimes swirls in the plastic from when it flowed into the mold.  The primer will cover this up (it happened to me, fortunately it was on the bottom of the car.  Last time I shot over bare plastic.)

I use the same stuff I use to strip off chrome plating: Westleys Bleach White...and it only takes about 20-30 minutes maximum. Use in a well ventilated area though!

Forget Easy Off, forget Simple Green.

Go to your local Wal Mart, pick up a gallon jug of "Purple Power" (or if you want to pay more you can get "Superclean"...same stuff just made by Castrol)

Fill up a plastic container (I use tuperware), drop in your part you want to strip, put on the lid.....come back in 12 hours and drop the part in the sink and wash it off. Some paint comes off faster than others, I stripped Tamiya acrylic in less that 4 hours with it. Awesome stuff. Don't stick your hand in it though...OUCH! I made a little hook out of a wire coat hanger to fish parts out of the soup.

 Sure is Agent G!  I answered a similar thread giving the same advice and Sean ( Summit) told me about it. It's cheaper reuseable and works great.  I clean my Airbrush stuff and everything with it now.  I tried it and really like it!

 You know I used to use the Oven cleaner stuff as well and heard brake fluid strips it clean. The easiest and safest I have found yet is plain old simple Green cleaner.  Let it soak a day odr so and the paint peels right off. Both Acrylic and enamels.  Smells better too! Easier on the liver!

Summit turned me on to that stuff!

Ive not had any isses with spraying as yet - however your info was really helpful nontheless.

Thanks. What happens if you paint without putting prime on the body?